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Taste Test: The battle of Bangkok’s baguettes

We put eight of Bangkok’s finest bread-makers to a blind taste test.

Taste Test: The battle of Bangkok’s baguettes
19 May, 2015 Bangkok time

A.) Conkey’s (B120)

This one’s the longest baguette on the list, if that matters to you. Even so, it has nice even lines without foregoing the home-baked look. Overall, a bit too chewy with a slightly metallic aftertaste.
Verdict: Don’t bite off more than you can chew.
72 Ekkamai Soi 22, 083-040-5911. www.fb.com/Conkeys-Bakery

B.) Pain Maison (B100) Runner Up!

This small producer makes bread to-order and appears at foodie markets from time to time. The homemade components shine in a nutty smell with slightly burnt notes, together with a yeasty inner.
Verdict: All hail the underdog.
Order at 094-230-9260 or www.fb.com/PainMaisonBangkok

C.) Maison Jean Philippe (B70)

The shortest and widest of the lot, this baguette also looks the least baked. Appearances don’t lie, either; this is spongy and soft compared to the others, and while the bread has nice irregular bubbles inside, it lacks aroma.
Verdict: Suited to white-bread graduates.
Available at Villa Markets on Sukhumvit Rd. or order from www.passiondelivery.com. Contact the bakery at 092-780-9610 or www.fb.com/MaisonJeanPhilippe

D.) Amantee (B85) Runner Up!

A bit darker than most, this baguette has a seductive, slightly-burnt aroma. The crust is crisp without being a jawbreaker, while the fluffy inner is packed with flavor.
Verdict: Gone before you know it.
2240/12 Chan Kao Rd., 081-814-0920. www.fb.com/amanteebkk

E.) Paul (B75) BK Pick!

The rustic and nicely-brown look matches the aroma of well-fermented bread. The fantastic crisp crust delivers a rewarding crack when you break into it, while the grayish inner is packed with delicious flavors, including slightly sour notes. It’s pleasantly chewy, too.
Verdict: Frankly, we’re surprised. And the price is pretty amazing for its size.
1/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-001-5160. Open daily 8:30am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

F.) La Baguette (B80) Yuck!

You can tell right away this is an industrial baguette just by the oh-so-perfect shape. The inside is dry and bright white in color—which explains the dull taste. The crust is stiff rather than crisp.
Verdict: All the charm of stale bread.
G/F, Emquartier, 693 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6420

G.) Maison Eric Kayser (B80)

This Parisian bread-master’s signature Baguette Mongue comes complete with sharp tips. Aesthetics aside, it doesn’t stand out beside the offerings from Paul and Amantee. The crust lacks texture and the inside is a bit too floury.
Verdict: Stick to their croissants.
103/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), between Sois 3-5, 02-712-9070. Open daily 7:30am-10pm. www.fb.com/MaisonEricKayserThailand

H.) Ciao Pane (B80)

This familiar farmers’ market name’s bread has a nice moist and spongy inner. But it’s all a bit too chewy, thanks to an elastic crust.
Verdict: Keep chewin’.
Ramkhamhaeng Soi 21, 081-647-1777. www.ciaopane.com

Note: All breads were eaten on the day of purchase.

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