Samyan, the fresh produce market, might have recently moved to new premises, but the area next to Chulalongkorn University, close to the U Center, is still the main source of nutrition for countless Chula students and young professionals. Despite the numerous smoky grills, it isn’t just a place for hardened carnivores—you can also find everything from good ‘ol rice porridge to spicy somtam.
Can I Have Some More?
One staple that has kept students going through long days of lectures is rice porridge. Joke Samyan (920, Phayathai Rd., opposite Chulalongkorn University, 08-1350-6671. Open daily 2:30-8am, 3-8pm) might be a modest shophouse, but its congee reputation reaches beyond the capital (B25/30 with an egg).
Give Me Meat!
You can’t come to Samyan without having steak. Plenty of restaurants in the area offer the so-called “steak Samyan,” a big-portioned combo of slabs of grilled meat, sausages, salad, spaghetti and fries. While it may not be RR&B-quality, steak Samyan is certainly cheap, comforting and filling. Stop by the air-con BKK Grill (198 U-Center, Chula Soi 42, 08-6790-0941, 08-3896-7883. Open daily 11am-10pm). Prices range from B79 for a bacon cheeseburger to B149 for deep-fried mixed seafood.
Cute Fusion
If heavy meats isn’t your thing, then head to the cutesy little restaurants which offer an assortment of Thai and fusion dishes. Pretty in pink, The Berry by Tasty Time (C13, D13, U Center, Chula Soi 42, 08-6800-2345. Open daily 9am-9pm) whips up one-dish Thai recipes, along with pastas, noodles and smoothies. Try rice topped with chicken teriyaki (B55) along with the cheesy macaroni with shrimps (B69). But The Berry is best known, and most popular, for its blueberry cake (B65). Go on a Friday and make the most of their 10% discount on sweet treats. Draped in green, the nearby Thon-Hom (U Center Soi Chula 42, 02-899-3738. Open daily 10am-9pm) boasts a good range of quick Thai dishes with pleasant presentation. Try its khao khai khon ham (B49), rice topped with half-cooked scrambled eggs with ham. The most popular place, however, is Kin Deum Samyan (Chula Soi 50, 02-611-7447. Open daily 5:30pm-1am). This Samyan institution has been serving up good pub grub and live music for as long as we can remember.
Spice Market
If you are in need of some spice, head over to the market’s hot spot (literally), Somtam Niti a.k.a. Somtam Jae Daeng (77 Samyan Market, Soi Chula 15, 02-214-2590. Open daily 10am-3pm) near the Faculty of Law. Its spicy papaya salad sells like hot… well somtam actually, and the shophouse eatery gets jam-packed at lunch—be outside the door when they open at 10am. Try the somtam with salted egg (B40) and accompany it with some fried chicken (B40, B80) or grilled pork neck (B40). Compared to its baan baan competitor, Somtum Foon Talop (7 U Center Soi Chula 42, 086-704-6181. Open Mon-Sat 10am-9pm) appeals thanks to its cozy air-con dining room. If you’ve been to its original spot in JJ Market, then you know what to order. If not, somtam with salted egg (B30), deep-fried chicken (B60) and tom saab with pork ribs (B60) aren’t likely to disappoint.
Just Desserts
After all that grilled food you probably need some caffeine to jump start the rest of the day. Embrace the collegiate spirit and sit at Coffee Kay (Soi Chula 42, 02-611-9779. Open daily 8:30am-9:30pm) for a cup of joe and free wi-fi. Their hot coffee is B30-35, or cool off with an iced coffee (B35-45) to go. Still have some space to fill, then why not grab some great baked goods to finish? Trek over to the sweet little bakery shop Ton Kok (77 Samyan Market, Soi Chula 15, 02-219-2119 or 089-922-5903. Open daily 8:30am-8:30pm). Try their fluffy chocolate cake or, if your taste is a little more exotic their orange, coffee or green tea slices. A wedge of this home-baked goodness is only B25. Wash down your treat with a cup of royal coffee, fresh Doi Tung (hot B25, cold B35).
