Bangkok is really breaking free of the old stigma regarding Thai food, with locals finally accepting to pay more for Thai food in swanky restaurants, as long as it’s authentic. It started with Bo.lan, Nahm and Soul Food Mahanakorn, but new openings like Supanniga, Issaya and Thai Lao Yeh have shown this acceptance is here to stay. Thai desserts, on the other hand, haven’t quite surfed the trend. Although served at the aforementioned venues, we’re definitely not seeing Thai-centric kanom venues attract the kind of queues that the honey toast at After You garners. Despite the relative obscurity, there are encouraging signs that Thai sweets could be the next big thing, if people woke up to the complex and delicate techniques used to make them.

History books say Thai desserts were only made from flour, palm sugar and coconut before Maria Guyomar de Pinha of Portugal introduced the use of egg yolk-based recipes during the mid-17th Century. But even then, desserts remained a rare treat. “They were only really for ceremonies and everyone had to help because they were very delicate to make,” explains Dan Bunnag of the traditional Thai sweet store Sri: Thai Delicatessen. Not only were desserts for special occasions, but they were made according to closely guarded techniques. “When we were working on making our piak poon stickier, we realized Thais don’t share this kind of information,” says Dan. “You have to find out for yourself.”

Thai desserts have also failed to evolve, as Jakthong Ubolsootvanich, owner of dessert cafe Let Them Eat Cake, points out: “A modern form of Thai sweet hasn’t emerged. People complain about new things right away without experiencing them, or looking at the ideas behind them.”

However, Chef Ian Kittichai whose Issaya Siamese Club serves up Thai fusion desserts that experiment with presentation, suggests this isn’t always the case. “The people who come to Issaya, both Thais and expats, are generally open-minded when it comes to Thai desserts. They understand that we’re trying to educate them about desserts that perhaps aren’t so widely appreciated.”

When it comes to the issue of trying to make Thai desserts more popular, presentation is important, says Kittichai. As is knowing your dessert’s ingredients and history: “You should try to pass this knowledge onto your customers.”

Dan, from Sri, argues that increasing awareness about Thai desserts needs to happen outside of restaurants, too. “Look at how Japan takes their culture seriously and how their young people are so well-informed. The Thai dessert scene would be much better once Thais are more proud of their own culture,” he says. Prae Lavanamal of Pon Kum Wan in Hua Hin, too, says the new generation can’t even match the name of a dessert to a picture. “They need an education to know how delicate the craftsmanship is,” she says.

“Young people today appreciate only Western, Japanese or Korean stuff. They look down on Thai food. If it’s expensive, they won’t pay. Same with Thai desserts; I sell kanom tom for B60 and customers say it’s too expensive right to my face, which makes me mad. They never think about how much work goes into their creation,” Dan says.

Prae says that even though she knows how to bake, she simply prefers Thai desserts. Prae says you need roughly two hours to bake a regular cake that sells for over B100 a slice. “I could do that, but I just don’t want to. Even though something like aa-lua needs three days—to mix the flour, coconut milk and sugar together, leave it to form, and then bake for 18 hours—some customers tell me B60 is too expensive for a box of it. It’s sad but I won’t give up.”

Along with some other Thai dessert makers, Prae has joined with the Innovative House of Thailand Research Fund to breathe new interest into Thai desserts by such methods as changing their size, decreasing their sweetness and changing their packaging. Her hope for Siam’s sweets? “We don’t expect Thai desserts to ever be as popular as certain foreign desserts, just another alternative that people won’t forget to try every now and then.”

Where to Buy Thai Desserts in Bangkok

Sri. G/F, K-Village, 93, 95 Sukhumvit Soi 26. Open daily 8am-8pm. G/F, Central Chidlom, Ploenchit Rd. 089-923-5477. Open daily 10am-9pm

Pon Kum Wan. Plern Wan, Phetkasem Rd. (between Hua Hin Sois 38 and 40), Hua Hin. 089-688-4053. www.ponkumwan.com. Open daily 10:30am-8pm

Issaya Siamese Club. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Rama 4 Rd., 02-672-9040. www.issaya.com. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 6-1

Toro Sushi

The buzz: The owners built this restaurant especially for Tawil Pidotung, a Thai chef who they were huge fans of. They also claim to have their own special supplier who delivers particularly fresh fish from Japan.
The décor: Taking its inspiration from the Tsukiji Market, the place houses items like baskets and boxes sourced from there. Other than that, the owners are trying to draw on nature, with a little pond and some small bushes.
The food: As you’d expect, the ingredients are from Tsukiji Market, so you know they’re quality. Try the engawa (flounder’s fin, B120), torched or not, or chu-toro (B280) and hotate (scallop, B110), or opt for the moriwase set (B690). The rolls are also worth a try, like the So Salmon (salmon roll topped with torched salmon belly and crispy tempura flour, B320) and the shrimp tempura (B340). Tip: if you have some ebi sushi, make sure you ask for the soup made from your shrimp heads.
The drinks: Refill tea is B40. They recommend sake (starting from B330) to bring out the flavor in your sushi. Beers are Asahi (draught, B120, and bottled, B170).
The crowd: Half Thai and half Japanese expats, with many friends and acquaintances of the owners dropping by, too.
2/F, No. 88, Soi Paidee Madee (between Thonglor Sois 5 and 9), Bangkok, 02-712-8447. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2pm; 5:30-11pm; Sat-Sun 11am-11pm

Ikki Ikki

The buzz: Owned by a group of friends with divergent but complementary tastes—one likes sushi, one likes beer and another adores vintage décor—Ikki must be doing something right as the place is packed out on a pretty regular basis. Make sure to drop by in November if you want to enjoy their 30% off soft opening deal.
The décor: If you take your décor seriously, then this could be the spot for you. With an atmosphere far removed from the typical wooden Japanese vibe, Ikki Ikki more resembles a wine bar. The setting is vintage meets industrial, with plenty of bricks, old knick-knacks hanging on the walls, a bare floor and hanging light bulbs at the sushi counter.
The food: The focus is squarely on sushi, so expect a brief menu listing a variety of different rolls. Besides the classics, the highly recommended option is the foie gras mango roll (B310). Otherwise, try the popular Matsusaka sushi (B360) or opt for the sushi set (B750/B1,750). There are also US-influenced rolls like dragon roll (B350) and salmon cream cheese roll (B400).
The drinks: We like the beer options here, with bottles of Sapporo (B130), Tsing Tao (B100) and Pure Blond (B120) available. They’re also going to serve draught Sapporo very soon. Wine by the glass ranges from B230-B350. Tea is B45.
The crowd: For now, some Thai families and groups of pretty ladies who are friends of the young owners.
2/F, Nihonmachi, Sukhumvit Soi 26, Bangkok, 081-932-5757. Open daily 4:30-11:30pm

Sushi Otaru

The buzz: Tucked in Arena 10, the main talking point about Sushi Otaru is its Chef Shinji Nakamine, two-time winner of Japanese show TV Champion (1988 and 1989), who claims that many sushi places in Bangkok are inauthentic. He promises to serve original recipes he’s learned through his 20 years of experience. The chef is also studying up on Thai fish, so chances are you’ll soon be tasting some fresh, local variations on sushi classics.
The décor: Besides the typical dark-colored wooden furniture and dark stone interior, the ceiling takes its inspiration from fish bones. Take your pick of the private rooms or enjoy the main dining room, which will soon have a central garden. If you spot Chef Shinji, we recommend taking a seat at the counter to watch him skillfully slice with his special Japanese knife.
The food: Most of the ingredients are from Hokkaido. Of course, you should start with fish like the nikiri matsu (sushi set, B1,350) or choose your own sushi like otoro (B490), salmon (B140) or the Matsusaka beef (B450). Otherwise, munch on a beef tataki roll (B550) or dragon roll (eel, avocado and cream cheese, B330). There are also other dishes like avocado tempura (B280), anago (grilled Japanese eel, B350), shabu (B700-B3,000) and katsu don (B250). End your meal with a sweet strawberry daifuku (B120).
The drinks: Refill tea is B60. The classic Kubota Senju sake is B2,800 (720 ml). Beers are Sapporo (B240), Singha and Asahi (each B120).
The crowd: Office workers and Thonglorites.
3/F Arena 10, 177/2 Thonglor Soi 10, Bangkok, 02-392-7737. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm and 5:30pm-10:30pm 

Kaizen Sushi & Hibachi

The buzz: Located near the popular Sushi Masa, this new sushi restaurant is owned by a group of chefs who have each been in the business for more than 15 years. Those looking for some entertainment take note, the place offers hibachi (teppanyaki) demonstrations, too.
The décor: Pretty simple. Kaizen has probably the most typical Japanese vibe of all the restaurants here. Think light toned wooden furnishing and a dominant sushi counter.
The food: Sushi sets range from B280-B1,800, with the Kaizen Onsen Sashimi Set (B2,500) particularly popular, while you can also opt for Matsusaka beef, uni (sea urchin) or foie gras. Their rolls are also a hit; try the Sexy Roll (tuna and salmon maki topped with tempura flour, B250), the foie gras maki (B420) or Snowman Roll (flounder’s fin and crabmeat, B350). Hibachi set lunches range from B180-B380. For something more showy, try the wagyu with seafood (B980).
The drinks: Refill tea is B25. Sake starts from B350 and draught Asahi is B59.
The crowd: Office workers at lunch and families on weekends, as well as groups of college students drawn by the very reasonable prices.
L Building, 308 Phayathai Rd., Bangkok, 02-215-2972. BTS Ratchatewi. Open daily 11am-11pm