A few years back, there was a point when the Plaza Athenee Bangkok, A Royal Meridien Hotel (yes, that's its full name) had one of the top three brunches in town, right up there with Sukhothai and Four Seasons.

We have a feeling those days might be back as the Rain Tree Cafe, which is where the brunch is held, has just reopened after a complete renovation. It's now much more Thai, in a lavish Rama V-style that combines plenty of marble and hardwood.

The Sunday brunch (noon-3:30pm) ticks all the right boxes: fine de claire, Belon and Irish oysters; live lobsters; Parma ham; Roquefort cheese and six cooking stations. Prices are net, from B2,800 (including water) to B3,800 (free-flow sparkling, wine and beer) and even B4,900 to upgrade that sparkling Chandon to Moet & Chandon Champagne. It also makes for a suitably plush High Tea venue.

Plaza Athenee Bangkok, A Royal Meridien Hotel, 61 Wireless Rd., 02-650-8800