Unlike its far more stately sister, Al Majilis, just down the road, Al matum is a much more modest affair. It’s also a lot less unique. That’s not necessarily a criticism, but we’ve seen a fair share of places that adopt a similar approach. Set in an imposing white 60s style building down a darkened soi, it has the prerequisite pretty garden filled with fairy lights, mismatched furniture, bossanova tunes and a menu that focuses on simple, Northeastern treats like somtam and grilled pork neck. Yes, we’ve seen it all before, but we have to admit that despite this, and despite the incredibly scattergun (if equally friendly) service, we still really warmed to the place. To be fair, it does also have enough of its own personality to stand apart from similar spots, most notably through the DIY range of Al matum’s somtams. Presented on a surgical- looking metal tray, you’ll get all the ingredients and a cute pestle and mortar so you can pound up your own version of this popular dish. Fortunately, their well-balanced dressing rescues any shortcomings on your part when it comes to preparation in dishes like the tam thai sai poo (papaya salad with crab, B45). Their spicy dipping sauce is just as wonderful, and is a perfect complement to the tasty, soft and moist meat in the neua yang (grilled beef, B100). Though slow to arrive, the tom saeb sikrong (pork spare ribs in spicy soup, B135), served in a hot clay pot on a burner, is another highlight, and suitably strong-flavored. Have it with the equally impressive fried eggs salad (yam khai dao, B75). However, other mains like the moo leum daed (sun-dried pork, B90) and kao pad naem (fried rice with sour sausage, B90), while adequate, fail to offer such thrills. All these fiery treats can be washed down with a selection of interesting cocktails, made even more appealing by the current 2 for the price of 1 happy hour deal after 7pm. The only real downside with Al matum is when it rains, such as on our last visit. The interior is cute but small and basic, and just can’t compete with the picturesque garden for atmosphere. Still if you are prepared to risk the weather, you’ll find a charming spot to kick back, enjoy some reasonably-priced Isaan treats and a cocktail or two.

The buzz: The folks behind popular sheesha bar and all-around happening hangout Al Majlis now unveil its Thai counterpart, Al Matum. Tucked away on a dark, residential soi in Ekamai, it’s the latest in what seems to be a new trend of whimsical, secret garden-style spots for solid food and low-key drinks.

The décor: Al Matum is comprised of two elements: one is the enormous, white house with sloping roof, more notable for the scenic background it provides than for its indoor seating; the other is the sprawling front yard with underlit bushes, colorful, mixed seating—some tables and chairs, some beach recliners, some wide, comfy, berth-like benches. It is reminiscent of Suea Non Kin, minus the huge following—so far. Also notable, if a bit quirky, is the row of primary-colored cartoon animals that gazes down from the second floor of the house.

The food: A streamlined, no nonsense Isaan menu with all the usual highlights—various somtams, pork knuckles, naem sausage, sun-dried beef, crispy yam khai dao, super fatty moo nam tok, et cetera. The highlight is the do-it-yourself somtam kit which brings all the necessary ingredients and a mortar and pestle right to your table.

The drinks: Unlike other somtam joints, this one has an impressive drinks list, including affordable red, white and sparking wines by the bottle, various whiskeys and beers. Their cocktails, like mojitos and kamikazes come not in glasses but in carafes and can easily be shared by two or three people.

The crowd: A nice, democratic mix of youngsters with their hip cocktails, and middle-aged, folksy uncles around a bucket of Saeng Som. We envision yard parties in the future.