Having recently celebrated its first anniversary, Purple Laurel has given BK Magazine a reason to return to see how the restaurant has established itself in Bangkok’s fine-dining scene. Set inside the stunningly upscale Gaysorn Amarin in Chitlom, it brings the flavours of Jiangnan, the culturally rich region south of the Yangtze River encompassing culinary centres such as Shanghai, Suzhou and Hangzhou, to the Thai capital.
Under Chef Yu Bin, who holds two Michelin Stars, the restaurant draws on this region’s refined culinary heritage, combining delicate, layered flavours with the richness of Cantonese gastronomy.
We started with the mixed mushroom roll with rice paper (B280), a neat, savoury opener that sets the tone for a menu where presentation matters as much as flavour. But it was the poached seafood in hot and sour soup (B880) that stole the show. Bright with lemony acidity, warming spice and the freshest clams, prawns, squid, and fishballs. This was the unanimous favourite at our table, balancing its sour and spicy notes without losing sight of the ingredients.
The live river prawn (thankfully not alive), marinated in a house-made chilli vinegar sauce, was another standout. The jumbo freshwater prawn meat in citrusy Jiangnan-inspired sauce brought together sweet, sour, spicy, and fresh flavours in a lively combination. For something more traditional in spirit, the crispy pigeon with lemon aroma (B820) delivered the appeal of crisp "glass style” skin with rich, dark gamey meat.
Then came the Sichuan mapo tofu with crab meat and minced beef (B650), a dish that is not for the timid. The mala numbing sauce was intense, bringing the tingle of Sichuan peppercorns alongside a deep, savoury richness.
We enjoyed the casserole-sautéed white clams with fermented pepper sauce (B1,080) and wok-fried seasonal vegetables which offered a welcome change of pace, letting the produce speak for itself between the richer dishes.
Dessert brought a dose of theatre. The baked lion puff with sweet potato (B220) arrived with a bright yellow egg-yolk cream centre that exploded out of its red pastry shell.
The chilled mango sago cream with pomelo (B190) was a fresher, fruitier finish, while the chilled koi fish pudding with passion fruit (B220) featured an elaborate jelly fish decoration that looked too pretty to disturb.
For those planning a more extravagant Chinese feast, the menu also features traditional Peking duck with caviar (B3,980), an indication of the luxurious end of the restaurant's offering.
Purple Laurel is willing to change with the calendar. The restaurant puts seasonal produce at the centre of its approach, with special menus appearing around festivals and celebrations. It is worth keeping an eye on its social media for limited-edition offerings around Chinese festivals, as well as Thai occasions, Christmas, and New Year.
Right now, there is a particularly timely reason to visit. Purple Laurel's Vegetarian Festival menu is available for just a few more days, from October 9 to 18. Drawing on fresh seasonal produce from its exclusive green garden in Chiang Mai.
Purple Laurel offers a chance to explore a regional Chinese culinary tradition that deserves more attention, without sacrificing the indulgence expected of a high-end dining room. Come for the seafood and the polished setting, stay for the surprising range of flavours.
Follow @purplelaurel.bkk for seasonal menus and festival dining updates. Raynue zone, 4th Floor, 502 Gaysorn Amarin, Bangkok 10330. Phone: 096 668 1616.
