Goldsmith
Tang Toh Kang
Corner of Mangkorn and Vanich roads, Yaowarat, 02-224-2422, 0225-2898, 02-622-8640/-2. Open Mon-Sat 9:30am-4pm.
Founded over 140 years ago, Tang Toh Kang may not be the first gold shop in Thailand, but it is the longest running standalone of its kind. Jankit Tantikarn is the fourth generation of goldsmiths to craft the precious metal in this gorgeous, ancient building, and also helped transform its top floor into Thailand’s first gold museum.
Growing up here, did you have a very traditional Chinese upbringing?
Actually, my father and grandfather were pretty Westernized. We all went to Christian school and I even graduated from the UK, which is probably cheaper than studying here. We’re modern-thinking, and this is probably why we can still survive in this business.
But why do people choose you over other shops?
Our reputation comes from our craftsmanship, and our consistent quality. We’re not the only place that offers handmade gold jewelry but we are among the best. Good work needs time, and that explains why our goldsmith’s charges are more expensive, starting from B400 to B2,000-3,000 per baht (15.2 grams).
Where does the gold come from?
It used to come from Hong Kong and China. But today, the gold is from everywhere, from Switzerland, Africa, Australia and Japan—the source is not that important, as long it’s 99.9% gold. Then we have to add more silver and copper so it’s easier to craft.
Are there any tips about buying gold?
It’s difficult for a newbie to tell real gold and fake gold. So you’d better consult gold shops. Buyers should always be aware of the finishing though. Gold jewelry should be as flawless as possible, with a nice color and a smooth touch.
Is this a good time to buy gold?
It’s difficult to say because the price is always fluctuating. Just buy when you think you can afford it as gold is one of the most reliable investments. New Year is the time when we sell the most, not the Chinese New Year as people usually think, and this year was pretty normal in terms of sales.
Why did you create the gold museum?
It was not our first intention, actually. We just wanted to clean up our attic and discovered several goldsmith tools had been left there after some craftsmen passed away. So we decided to turn that whole floor into a museum, exhibiting the tools and the history of goldsmiths in Thailand—for free!
What is the best thing about living in Yaowarat?
This is a real Chinese community. Though many residents have moved out of town to get away from the chaos and traffic jams, their businesses are still here. People also come to shop here, despite the higher prices. They are used to the vibes and varieties of merchandise.
How was the Chinese New Year in the old days?
I loved it! When I was young, they didn’t close the main road to be a walking street. But during the New Year celebrations, big orchestras would come from China to perform live music at the big gold shops. The shows were open to everyone and we would give out ang pao [the traditional Chinese New Year money]. It was a lot more classic than that lion and dragon dancing that they usually do these days.
Yaowarat has a glowing reputation for food. Which places do you recommend?
None. There’s no such place any more. Good Chinese chefs are mostly dead and their descendants didn't carry on the businesses. It's too tiring to be sweating in front of a hot stove.
Coffee Society
Eiah-Sae
101-103 Yaowarat-Padsai Rd., Yaowarat, 02-221-0549. Open daily 4am-8:30pm.
Sivakorn Thongvisirakul and his mother, Wongpen, can trace the family’s coffee brewing tradition back to their great-grandparents. Last year, they abandoned the original shop across the street, so this new venue’s walls are slightly lacking in history. But the original crowd of chain-smoking, coffee-sipping regulars has followed and more than made up for it. While Sivakorn is taking care of business growth, Wongpen is happy to run the Yaowarat branch, attending to old regulars and sharing the family’s 80 years of experience with new visitors too.
So what’s the key to longevity for a business in Yaowarat?
Quality. We only use pure coffee beans roasted and blended with our own secret technique. We ground our own tea powder and make our own sangkaya [Thai egg custard]. We also try to keep prices low.
Your regulars aren’t getting any younger. Will a new generation replace them?
When one generation goes, another comes. Though people normally think these old grandpas are our only regulars, teens and younger people come during weekends.
Have you ever wanted to give up?
Yes, sometimes it’s just too tiring. But I can’t just stop: there are regulars who have been visiting my place for decades.
What’s the future of Eiah-Sae?
We just try to maintain our reputation. We try to set up franchises even though we haven’t made much money from it. It keeps our brand visible, for now.
How’s the Chinese community these days?
Old people are still close to each other. They have known each other for decades. Sometimes, people here will strike a business deal without signing a contract—they trust each other. Many people have moved out, but they still come back to buy stuff and see old friends. The young generation doesn’t really know our old traditions but what can I do? You have to let them go with the flow. If only they can remember some important events, carry on a few traditions, that’s all we can do.
Old School Pharmacy
Pow Tai Dispensary
572-574 Charoenkrung Rd., Yaowarat, 02-221-3585. Open daily 8am-5pm.
Parallel to the bustling main artery of Yaowarat, this 60-year-old pharmacy sits quietly on Charoen Krung. Like many elderly shopkeepers in the neighborhood, Supakorm Yubolnetharak, 68, won’t greet you with a smile. But he has the knowledge and skill to prepare medicines to cure your every ailment. And he doesn’t do just smelly herbs—he also sells modern drugs.
What are people looking for when they come to your shop?
Though we also sell modern-day medicines, most people come to buy traditional Chinese medicine, as this is what this area is best known for.
What’s the difference between traditional medicine and modern treatments?
Traditional medicines take more time to cure symptoms, but they also have fewer side-effects. On the other hand, modern medicines cure illnesses fast but can cause severe allergic reactions. I recommend using traditional medicines for only common illness, like a cold or sore throat. But not for a serious condition, like diabetes.
How long can you keep these traditional medicines?
If you keep them in their original form, as dried leaves or roots, they have no expiry dates. But if they’ve been transformed into tablets or capsules, you can keep them for four or five years as a maximum. I think traditional medicines work better in their original forms, though.
What’s the most common misconception about traditional medicine?
You cannot just come and buy what you want to try. You need to consult a doctor or pharmacist. Young people are now interested to try traditional
medicine but they have little knowledge about them. Each herb has effects and properties as well as side effects, as documented by thousands of years of practice.
Original Cuisine
New Kwong Meng
4-8 Padsai Rd., Yaowarat Soi 19, Yaowarat, 02-224-2204/2170. Open daily 10am-9pm.
Vannee Sintarakao, 62, has been running her family’s Chinese restaurant for most of her life. Started by her great grandparents, Kwong Meng still serves recipes from China’s Kunming Prefecture. But due to its popularity, the eatery got a major expansion in 1967 and was renamed New Kwong Meng. Despite the changes, it has remained a favorite of Chinese tycoons and businessmen.
What are the highlights?
We cook Taechew cuisine, originally from Shantou. Our highlights include Chinese raw fish that’s different from Japanese sashimi because of the dip and side dishes. We also make chilled ham wrapped in goat’s skin, shark fin soup, sea cucumber, crabs, lots of classic dishes.
What’s the secret of Chinese food?
The freshness of the ingredients. The fresher it is, the tastier it will be. Second is how you clean your ingredients. Third is seasoning—you have to know how to pair each flavor perfectly. These secrets run in the family and chefs need to spend years learning them, starting from the very basics, like how to clean the vegetables.
How has Yaowarat changed over the years?
Buildings and people, mostly. A couple of years ago, more new shops opened in the street, and they swept the old atmosphere away. Some people died of old age; some moved out to less hectic parts of town. That’s the reason why you can’t find original Chinese food any more. Sure, new restaurants have opened, but only a few that taste any good. They use one kind of sauce in every dish?
Is Yaowarat still the best place to eat Chinese, then?
Well, yes. Because even though old tastes are disappearing, they’re still tastier than elsewhere. But for dim sum, what they now serve at five-star hotels is better.
Will you pass on your skills to your descendants?
I would love to. I love all the secret techniques that run in the family. But it seems that my children are not interested. I’m really worried about the future of the restaurant.
Chinese Accessories
Yin Sui Fung
58-60 Plangnam Rd., Yaowarat, 02-221-3498, 2-225-1888. Open daily 9am-6pm.
While the luxurious gold shops on the main Yaowarat strip always look freshly painted in bright red and shiny gold, this small dingy store is hidden away in an alley. But then, Yin Sui Fung doesn’t sell gold, as you’ll quickly see from the myriad Chinese toys, ornaments, masks and traditional accessories that hang from its façade. La Nawin started working here when she was 12, 40 years ago. Her customers come from all over Thailand, from Phuket Vegetarian Festival devotees, to Chinese opera singers.
What’s the common theme with what you sell?
They’re all Chinese products that are related to Chinese opera and ritual offerings, from colorful pants and flags with auspicious Chinese characters, to Chinese clown helmets and small toys.
How do you get these items?
The costumes we make ourselves. But for ornaments, toys, masks and accessories we have our suppliers. We resell them at a very small profit, only B100-200 extra.
Your business is very old. What’s your secret?
We don’t compete with others. We have loyal customers and fortunately new customers discover our shop, as well as tourists interested in our products when they walk pass.
This is a family business?
We live like a family, and work like a family. I started working with the owner’s grandparents before. So now, this business is into its third generation.
How has Yaowarat changed over the years?
I remember when the bus fee was only 25 satang. Gold shops stayed open until 10pm and they were even more beautiful during the Chinese New Year when they decorated their shops with lights and lanterns. Chinese New Year was not as big as it is now, but it was more beautiful and fun.
So is there any good food we can still find in the area?
I don’t think there are that many. Old chefs and cooks are dead and these young people don’t do things as well as the old people did. Check out the noodle stall beside Toh Kang gold shop.
Bangkok Chinese New Year Festival 2010
As the heart of the Chinese community in Bangkok, and the largest Chinatown in Thailand, Yaowarat is also home to numerous events to celebrate the coming Year of the Tiger. On Feb 14-15, from noon to midnight, Yaowarat Road from Odient Gate to Lampoonchai intersection will be turned into a walking street where visitors can enjoy street stalls offering Chinese food and drinks along with performances from mainland China. There will also be music performances by artists from GMM Grammy, including Bie the Star, Chin Chinnawut and Calories Blah Blah. More information at 1672 or www.tourismthailand.org.
Wat Traimitr Withayaram
2010 welcomes the newest sacred landmark to Chinatown: Wat Traimitr Withayaram. After years of construction, the temple’s Phra Maha Mondop (the grand square stupa) opened last December and now houses a massive golden Buddha image. The four-story stupa is designed by Thai art veteran, Arwut Ngernchooklin, the former director of The Fine Arts Department. Visitors can park their cars on the first floor, then visit the Chinese community museum on the second and third floors (Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm), before ending the trip at the Buddha image (4/F, daily 8am-5pm). Admission is free.
