Buy Spy
The buzz: New mall Knightsbridge packs in the crowds with a 4,000 sq. ft. flagship store for prep specialist Brooks Brothers.
The vibe: Like it’s other boutiques, expect the vibe here to be intimate, chic yet casual, but more teeming, since it boasts a spillover younger crowd from its neighbor Topshop/ Topman. The friendly service staff will even dispense advice and take you through the makes for an entire collection so you can look preppy in a jiffy.
The goods: Staples like the campus chic range from the University collection are readily available, but keep an eye out for pieces only available here. Trimmer fits permeate the menswear pieces, like the Barracuda-type jackets paired with check shirts, uniforminspired pants and messenger bags; bolder retro prints make up a vibrant womenswear collection, available through blouses, skirts and jackets.
Why you’ll be back: Hey, this is the first time the Brooks Bros are available in downtown Orchard.
#01-07 Knightsbridge, 270 Orchard Rd., 6736-1868. Open daily 10am-10pm.
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It had to happen. As the local shopping scene gets saturated with more and more multi-label boutiques stocking luxury cult street labels, its pioneer, Blackjack—which has been in the business since the early 90s and continuously struggled to find its beat over the years—simply had to reinvent itself. After all, rival boutiques such as Ambush, Front Row and Asylum Shop have been stocking up on equally hard-to-find labels such as Bernard Willhelm, Cosmic Wonder Light Source and Giuliano Fujiwara recently, so it was necessary for Blackjack to find itself some new cultural cache. The result: Club 21b, which refocuses its street slant appeal towards more thoughtof fashion brands, and has been remodeled in the spirit of its big sister store Club 21, already a go-to destination for high-end fashion finds.
“In contrast to predecessor Blackjack which embraced youth culture and street wear, Club 21b’s positioning is to showcase inspired and intelligent fashion which demonstrates spontaneity and creative experimentation,” says director Fiona Tan. “The principal role of our team of buyers and merchandisers is to constantly discover the new and ‘left side of fashion’ brands, with easier accessibility in style and price point. We hope to foster an appreciation for global cutting-edge fashion, be an incubator for emerging young talents and a platform for established brands that embrace creative experimentation.”
Indeed, stepping into its spanking new 3,600 sq. ft. space at Forum the Shopping Mall, which comes with a raw minimalist design replete with cement plaster, steel and cardboard elements—courtesy of Jap interior designer Koichiro Ikebuchi of Atelier Ikebuch fame—one feels compelled to rethink fashion all over again. Separated into two clear divisions for men and women, the left portion of the store is stocked with a multitude of womenswear labels spanning Anne Valerie Hash, Helmut Lang, complexgeometries, Rick Owens Drkshdw, Opening Ceremony, Theysken Theory and Tess Giberson. Guys can look out for the latest (and greatest) in contemporary menswear including Adam Kimmel, Ganyru Comme des Garcons, Golden Goose, Hollywood Trading Company, Phenomenon and Production Artisanale—all previously unavailable here.
But it’s not just the selections that make the store tick. Carefully curated and displayed, the brands’ myriad character and styles are cleverly juxtaposed to bring out their best elements. The playful textures found on the Phenomenon ready-to-wear collection look great placed alongside the vintage denim pieces by Opening Ceremony x Levi’s in the menswear section, ditto the abstract prints on the Helmut Lang ladies collection juxtaposed against sexier dresses from Opening Ceremony x Rodarte—this is arguably the best-looking boutique in town. Top it off with more accessible brands like Acne, Alexander McQueen, Mercibeaucoup, Julius and Zucca, and we have a clear winner.
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Save for the beautiful cinematography by Anthony Dod Mantle (Slumdog Millionaire) and some nicely choreographed, non-bloody battle scenes, this Gladiator and Apocalypto wannabe fails to take flight. Sure, director Kevin Macdonald (The Last King of Scotland) has a keen and assured eye on the whole thing, but The Eagle’s failure is due in part to its stoic storyline (not in a good way) and the uneven performance by lead Channing Tatum. Even if he cuts a rather dashing figure as a Roman warrior—the man’s no Russell Crowe.
In the vein of romcoms like The Devil Wears Prada and 27 Dresses—you know, hardworking pretty girls working their asses off in the corporate world and knowing little about love—comes another predictable but utterly enjoyable one; this time round headed by a powerhouse cast that’s hard to resist. Never mind that it’s as formulaic as hell.
A Good Cause
Seriously, with so many problems happening in the world right now, should we really be concerned with what we’re wearing? Well, apparently so if you’re in Singapore, with two major fashion festivals taking place over the next two months, starting with the first ever Men’s Fashion Week, featuring no less than a dozen local brands alongside more established international ones. Here we go behind the press releases, to give you the lowdown on what to expect from our local brands.
What it is: Yes, the name is cheezy: ATZU actually stands for “reforming fashion from A to Z for U.” Thankfully, this web-based menswear label caters to both the simple dresser and more flamboyant types through its ATZU White and Black collections, the former comprising mainly straightforward men’s shirts and the latter edgier cuts and silhouettes.
What the press release says: “Body imperfections play a key part in the construction of an ATZU garment, pieces that will disguise one’s imperfections, be it a longer torso, a longer neck, a broader shoulder or a bigger chest, through the juxtaposition of fabrics and razor-sharp cuts.”
What it’s really trying to say: Loose fits with asymmetrical cuts that will make you look like the standout that you truly are. Buy this if you have an extra finger or something (try the long-sleeved shirts).
What it is: Malaysian-born, Singapore-based fashion designer Sabrina Goh first showcased her designs at last year’s Audi Fashion Festival, showing off her flair for textural cuts, colors and fabrications. Goh currently runs her eponymous standalone boutique at Orchard Central.
What the press release says: “Driven by her passionate pursuit of creativity, she mixes elements of menswear and womenswear, symmetry and asymmetry, in order to develop forms into unexpected details and startling silhouettes.”
What it’s really trying to say: Almost anything goes for Goh, whose designs appeal to “girls who are boys who like boys to be girls who do boys like they’re girls who do girls like they’re boys.”
What it is: Stylist, photographer and self-taught designer Samuel Wong’s debut label. For his first Spring/Summer collection, Wong reinterprets his dad’s old wardrobe with a twist, featuring details such as pleats, detachable wool plackets and sleeves with tie details—calling it “My dad gave me the look.”
What the press release says: “The evenodd philosophy stems from the co-existence of polar opposites. Contrast becomes complimentary as simple, refined minimalism meets thought-provoking complications. Harmony and balance is achieved through calculated design and styling.”
What it’s really trying to say: Simple, wearable clothes for the modern dandy with a soft spot for vintage.
What it is: Previously known as Cloak & Dagger, fashion upstart JR Chan first caught the industry’s eye when she took home the Singapore Young Designer Award at 2007’s Singapore Fashion Festival. Currently stocked at indie boutique Hide & Seek, her collection has gotten darker and sexier over the years, featuring pieces like fitted black jackets with open backs for that token peek-a-boo effect.
What the press release says: “Jason is a new menswear and androgynous label that is in peaceful times but of turbulent mind. Jason is an endearing eccentric and destructive boy. Sympathizing with the extreme ideologies of the worldly rules, he develops an abnormal view on fashion, design and life, all for the sake of breaking away from stereotypes.“
What it’s really trying to say: Unexpected and extreme cuts and drapings that draw inspiration from goth, punk, club kids and even Martin Margiela. Nothing is sacred here.
What it is: One of the more established newbies in town, the label, under the artistic direction of trio Afton Chen, Ruth Marbun and Louis Koh, has consistently produced a wide range of jackets, shirts, T-shirts and pants governed by classic tailoring and contrasting colors.
What the press release says: “Fleur de Sel—”Flower of Salt” in French—is a highly prized, gourmet sea salt hand-harvested by salt farmers along the coast of Brittany, France. Salt farmers will fill up shallow pools of fresh salt-water and collect the top layer of salt once the water evaporates. The gentlest breeze will cause the layer of salt to sink, and only in an optimum condition where it is sunny with no wind, will the Fleur de Sel be formed and collected. This collection is based on the Fleur de Sel, from the inspiration of the painstaking attention to detail and quality, colors, fabrication, to the idea of its flake-like and irregularly shaped silhouette.”
What it’s really trying to say: Unfussy, practical and carefully constructed, the clothes appeal just as much to French fashionistas as they do to salt farmers (well, hopefully).
Men’s Fashion Week is on Mar 30-Apr 3, various times. Pavillion, Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Ave., 6688-8868, www.mfwasia.com. $40 from www.marinabaysands.com/ticketing.
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Boy oh boy
With two fashion festivals happening almost back-to-back (Men’s Fashion Week later this month and Asia Fashion Exchange (AFX) in May), my sartorial sense is perpetually buzzing, especially so since the lineups are extremely strong for menswear this year.
Shoe In
The Spring/ Summer collection is nothing less than fun and, dare I say it, current...
How has the working process evolved between you guys over the years?
It’s pretty much the same actually, which is very slow (laughs). How it works is, for the majority of the recordings, we will try to expand on them during rehearsals before recording them in the studio, or not. It’s a process of going back and forth—developing the tunes— before we’re all finally happy with it.
So you guys are in a more comfortable place right now?
Yeah, we were in a really dark place a few years ago—pitch black even—and the sound reflected that. These days, we tend towards the sunny stuff. But that doesn’t mean that the upcoming set will be less exciting. There’ll still be lots of melody and great dynamics…
What do you think of the rest of the wannabe post-rock musicians out there?
I agree that there is way too much music and way too many “musicians” today. But for us, music’s in our DNA—it’s like breathing—there’s no question about it. No motivations, no intentions, we just do.
What have you guys been listening to lately?
Right now, I’m in a phase of not listening to anything…
Famous last words?
Enjoy yourself.
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