From its early roots in the 80s as one of Bangkok’s most accessible and relevant street labels to its current status as one of Asia’s most contemporary menswear and womenswear brands, Greyhound remains a force to be reckoned with. Founder, chief designer and creative director Bhanu Inkawat gives us the lowdown on contemporary fashion today and what makes his 30-year-old label quintessentially Thai.

What’s the biggest shift in menswear and womenswear you’ve observed of late?
In both Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter 2011, I notice that many designers are going back to the past and drawing inspiration from there. Luxurious elegance, traditions, tailoring and meticulous hand crafting are back in style with creative, new interpretations. I also see a big movement in colors—I don’t know whether it’s a sign to the world to say “cheer up?”

What about the shift in your personal design style and aesthetics?
Greyhound’s style is all about “basic with a twist,” and each season we challenge ourselves by selecting things that surround us to inspire our design; be it art, music, people, stories or lifestyle trends. In recent years we are drawn to the fact that we have been living too long in the fast lane and that we need to slow down a bit and spend more time to enjoy and appreciate the beauty of life. You could say that we are also yearning for the beauty of the past. For example, our current Spring/Summer collection is about exploring the “untouched” nature with the theme “Wish We Were There,” while the diffusion Playhound collection is inspired by the wonderful work of Jean Michel Basquiat.

Would you say that your design has gotten more contemporary, and even European, over the years?
We have always been a street and contemporary brand, but more European or not, I don’t know. However, it could be the influence of the European buyers. Now that Greyhound is available in Paris, Moscow, Switzerland, Sweden and Berlin, we have to comply with their requests on certain items, especially Winter pieces.

How has being Thai influenced your vision and collections?
One could define Thai style, especially Bangkok style as “Beautiful Chaos.” Everything and anything goes and we live together in harmony. Greyhound style is also a sort of mix-and-match with a twist—we don’t really like a complete total look but prefer to mix things up a bit for something more intriguing. We are inspired by the idea of combining chaos with beauty.

Can you give us details about your upcoming Autumn/ Winter collection premiering at the Audi Fashion Festival?
The collection represents a symbolic troop of the new generation, getting together on a mission called “White Troop” with the hopes of changing the world. It reflects our point of view towards how the world is fast changing due to man’s consumption and greed. The collection consists of mainly white, ivory and light grey pieces to suggest that a new balance is needed. Many statements and wishes are also written, screen-printed and embroidered on T-shirts and jackets, creating a new uniform called “White Troop.”

What are some of the pieces we should be looking out for?
Basic T-shirts with various statements like “Silence,” “Make Love Not War” and “Peace Please,” and lace pieces which incorporate the peace motif.

What inspires you?
Things in general that are not derived from famous brands but from great ideas and design. People also inspire me. That’s why I love to sit in a café and watch people and the world go by. Stories too because they make things much more interesting and meaningful.

Famous last words.
Backward is the best way forward.

Greyhound’s Autumn/Winter 2011 collection premiers May 16, 9pm at Audi Fashion Festival, The Tent, Ngee Ann CIty. The current Spring/ Summer collection is available now at Front Row, #02-09 Raffles Hotel Arcade, 328 North Bridge Rd., 6224-5501.

6 New Labels You Need to Know

Accessories

7. By Invite Only
What it is: Accessories in the form of one-off bracelets, rings and necklaces that will make you look and feel good. 23-year-old designer Trixie Khong is still an undergraduate in Public Relations at the National University of Singapore, but has made her maiden accessories label By Invite Only her labor of love for the past two years. Inspired by 18th Century circuses and the Victorian era and made mainly from healing stones such as agate geodes (which allegedly enhances creativity and strength) and pyrite (which is said to enhance intelligence) sourced from the US, Hong Kong and South Korea, the accessories look like something Björk might wear if she went all New Age-y. “I have always been fascinated by sociology and social-psychology teachings,” says Khong. “They definitely inspire me in the way I think about my life and that everyone is shaped by their individual, unique experiences to be who they are today. That is to me what truly makes the substance of a person; not his clothes or his job but his values, thinking, experiences, ideas and opinions.”
Look out for: Colorful, trendy pieces like gold amethyst necklaces ($69) which have calming, meditative particles and the eye-catching quartz cofetti bracelets ($79) that are dipped in 14K gold.
Available at A Curious Teepee, #02-24 Scape, 2 Orchard Link, 6820-1680.

8. Carrie K.
What it is: Luxurious, handcrafted bespoke jewelry made from precious stones since July 2009 but only made available in select boutiques so far, hence amassing a cult status along the way. Designer Carolyn Kan’s offering for the label consists of three ranges: Raw, Chroma and Reborn. Raw features pieces with a harder edge with their imperfections intact, while Chroma’s color-saturated precious stones juxtaposed against silver twig-inspired links are subtly gorgeous, and Reborn is made mostly from discarded everyday things and immortalized in precious metal. “I like to scratch beneath the surface to uncover the truth and look for beauty in people and the things around us,” says Kan. “My collection is handcrafted by me at my atelier. I also work with artisans in Florence, Italy and Thailand while the stones are sourced from all over the world as many are custom cut.” Indeed, Kan’s unwavering determination to create only the best pieces results in one of the most precious accessories labels in town. “I once hunted down a source for amethysts in Uruguay to custom slice the cross section of amethyst, showing the rough edge of the stone along with its many layers of colors, just for me!”
Look out for: More accessible and rarer limited-edition pieces that will premier at Blueprint Emporium priced between $100-3,000. And hopefully in due time, special collaborative pieces with other ateliers in Europe where Kan first learn her craft. “I would like to collaborate with more artisans to showcase their work in order to make it more accessible and grow people’s appreciation of craftsmanship,” she says.
The current collection is available at The Society of Black Sheep, #B1-64 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Ave.,6688-7223.

9. Ling Wu
What it is: Created out of a small local workshop and available in very limited quantities, the functional and very well-made bags by Ling Wu are a great alternative for those who crave the intricate stitching and buttery softness previously found only in Chloe and Miu Miu bags, without having to blow their budget. Already stocked in Japanese boutiques like United Arrows and Vulca, these understated babies (priced between $150-1,200) are made using mainly lambskin not just for its outer structure, but inner linings as well. “Buyers will notice too that there is very little hardware used on the bags,” says creator Goh Ling Ling. “This is to show off the natural beauty of the materials. I love using lambskin because of its softness and how it slouches like second skin. I also include python from sustainable sources in the collection. The skin is amazingly beautiful in texture and feel.”
Look out for: Its latest Cruise collection that will be released at Blueprint Emporium, inspired by all things vintage and music by Serge Gainsbourg and The Black Keys. “Both artists are very raw, but their sounds are very real, and humorous even,” she says. “I like how the edges of the bags are left unsewn, which makes them look less precious and more traveled. The tassels and ruffles give a little bit of sex appeal too.”
Ling Wu’s current Spring/Summer collection is available at A Curious Teepee, #02-24 Scape, 2 Orchard Link, 6820-1680 and Blackmarket, #02-10 Orchard Central, 181 Orchard Rd., 6634-5201.

10. Tsura
What it is: Meaning “Light of dawn” in Romani Gypsy, fine jewelry label Tsura is the brainchild of Tara Thadani, a Romani herself who travels widely to Bhutan, Laos and Rajasthan for inspiration as well as to source precious stones for her ethereal creations. With permanent as well as thematic annual collections, Tsura is made for “the modern, global nomad, who is at once from nowhere and anywhere,” says Thadani. “Tsura started with my love for jewelry and love for adornment and embellishment. On a trip to India a couple of years back, I came across a tribal bangle and I had a great idea of how I could improve its basic design and make something contemporary. From there I took a course in gemology in Bangkok and found inspiration in the stones and materials. I came up with the story of a Goddess of the Forest and started to design pieces of jewelry for her.” Tsura’s piece are truly inspired by the beauty of nature and tribal motifs, such as her first Tribal Sun bangle series, with its big, no frills and minimalistic design that makes it utterly accessible and timeless.
Look out for: The new collection Stargazer, which will debut at Blueprint Emporium, priced between $500-2,500. The Wildflower rings—brightly colored petals accented with shimmering stones, with carved stone leaves hanging from delicate chains—is especially exquisite. Also keep an eye out for the Shera cuff—a solid wooden bangle contrasted with an agate resembling a fossil—which channels the beauty of Mother Nature to great effect.

With the inaugural Men’s Fashion Week just over and another big fashion parade, the Asia Fashion Exchange (AFX), just around the corner, style is the word on everyone's lips. And with more accomplished labels like Hansel, alldressedup, Nicholas, Sifr and Woods & Woods having already made their mark in the local fashion arena and overseas, it’s only a matter of time before these newer and more underground local upstarts parallel those successes. Here are 10 of Singapore’s most promising and interesting emerging style mavericks.

Ready-To-Wear

1. Mae Pang
What it is: Drawing inspiration from multi-label international fashion greats such as London’s Dover Street Market and Paris’ Colette, Mae Pang touts itself as the “first local fashion-angled concept label aimed at providing exclusive unique designs with the ultimate goal of increasing the local consciousness towards design and creating a strong community of Singaporean designers across all disciplines.” (Whew.) Indeed, since her first collaboration with local label Woods & Woods in 2009, chief designer Ai Mei has gone on to establish the womenswear label as one of the most edgy and contemporary: A trippy series of hybrid mesh tanks and maxi dresses built from a series of sharp angular cuts married with billowing layers of pleated neon mesh and chiffon, topped off with reflective optical lenses for that futuristic edge. This is a must for bold and statement-making style seekers.
Look out for: Its Cruise Collection for the upcoming Blueprint Emporium show, where Ai will present her latest collection inspired by a hipster music playlist comprising Beach House, Dragonette, Yeasayer and The xx, with graphic images culled from Pink Floyd’s iconic album The Dark Side of the Moon thrown in for good measure. Expect to pay $99 for a tank top and $309 for a maxi dress.
Mae Pang’s current Spring/Summer collection is available at A Curious Teepee, #02-24 Scape, 2 Orchard Link, 6820-1680.

2. Dzojchen
What it is: First established in New York and finally making its way back home, Singapore-based American designer Chelsea Scott-Blackhall draws from a confluence of influences, mainly travel, music and various cultures. Which explains the label’s concept of paradox and duality, with materials sourced from all over the world: Selvage fabric from Japan, leather pelts from tanneries in Spain, threads from the UK, and denim from specialist mills in Japan, India and the US. This results in a hodgepodge, wearable collection for men and women who love quirky, hand-tailored and relaxed pieces that won’t break the bank, especially the quality denim collection and tailored-jackets priced between $200-350. “Like the brand, I live by paradox, contradictions and an amalgamation of unexpected qualities,” says Scott-Blackhall. “Knocking out details, washes, textures and cuts that are anchored in the elements of my ‘moments’.”
Look out for: The 2011 Fall/Winter and Cruise collection that will be showcased at the Blueprint Emporium, featuring innovative uses of signature outseam and inseam, fused with a waistband curve to create carefully tailored and modern silhouettes. “I’ve brought a clean twist to a harder edge this season,” she adds. “Pieces that marry the era of classic rock with charm for more dapper detailing. Think David Bowie marries Iman.”

3. AWOL
What it is: Melding creativity and practicality to beautiful effect, the latest womenswear label AWOL a.k.a. All Walks of Life by veteran Alfie Lee (previously Flag, Capsule and Ming) marks his comeback to contemporary fashion with a twist. Designed for the busy working professional, the clothes are infused with sophisticated detailing and cuts that won’t look out of place in a business meeting. The color palettes of white, grey and black may be stark, but look closer and there are various clever mixes to behold: Cut-and-sew fake lapels attached to blazers, big irregular pins which tuck blouses and pants like stacks of paper overlapping each other, draped asymmetrical linen bias cut dresses with big folds over folds, vests which drop down to hip length and wind up making their way back to the shoulders—this is one of Lee’s most inspired collections yet. “All the details are technically and carefully twisted from the impression of a return to basics,” he says. “Silhouettes that are fitted but also away from the body simultaneously … the indication to be free, defining a state of being stress-free, craved by all modern women today.”
Look out for: The Cruise collection, premiering at the Blueprint Emporium, comprising linen blazers, Capri pants, silk cotton dresses and even sequin shorts for the more adventurous, priced between $45-350.

4. Jason
What it is: Certainly one of the most intriguing local labels to emerge out of the fashion woodwork in the past six months, the debut Jason menswear collection by JR Chan (who previously helmed Cloak & Dagger) first made its mark at the recently concluded Men’s Fashion Week. The collection, with its bold silhouettes and experiments such as men-skirts and eye-catching jumpsuits, will surely prove a hit with the young and very trendy. “That debut collection is inspired mainly by Suprematism, referring to the Russian abstract art movement developed by Kazimir Malevich, which is characterized by simple geometric shapes associated with ideas of spiritual purity,” says Chan. “It’s also a mix of Jason’s peculiarity for details with reference taken from Zaha Hadid’s renowned architectural designs. It aims to dress the individualists, the working class heroes, and the like-minded urban men with an absolute mindset who are not to be bound by trends and rules.”
Look out for: An extremely layered and billowy collection fusing geometric forms with contrasting colors, but cut according to the Asian man’s figure and designed for warm Asian weather (read: No wool). A simpler piece like a basic tank top starts from $89, while jackets, vests and jumpsuits are priced between $300-500.
Available at Blueprint Emporium and Hide & Seek, 176 Telok Ayer St., 6222-2825.

5. Mileti
What it is: It’s not just in the cut-and-sewn department that our emerging designers are excelling. For those looking for something a little sexier (or skimpier, rather), try on something from new local swimwear label Mileti for size. Born from the love of the outdoors and aquatic life, creators and designers Min (a former banker) and Letizia (also an art gallery owner) conceived a collection that is “chic, feminine and sexy.” Say the duo, “The bright and bold hues of street art are the main inspiration for the color palette … we both love the bold colors of Balenciaga bags and we wanted this collection to have that kind of visual impact.” But it’s not just the hues and sexy designs that make Mileti tick. Quality Italian fabrics made from the newly-developed high-tech Revolutional Mild fabric are used in each piece, making them breathable, quick to dry and resistant to sand and piling. That said, nothing wrong in looking wet in this one when the cuts are sooooo flattering.
Look out for: Chic, deceptively simple and well-cut tops and bottoms ($50-90) and intricate one-piece suits ($140-270) that will make you look like you just stepped off the set of Temptation Island or the Côte d’Azur.
Available at Antipodean, 27A Lorong Mambong, 6463-7336 and AVANA: j, #01-07/08 Pacific Plaza, 9 Scotts Rd., 6737-4042.

6. Noel Caleb
What it is: One of the more playful and accessible new labels around, womenswear brand Noel Caleb specializes in easy, wearable pieces coupled with quirky accessories. The indie label derives its name from the words “Christmas” and “Devotion” combined, which also explains the various names allocated to its collection, including the Alexandrite dress which comes with smart paneling like a metal stud detail at the cuff and a metal buckle at the waistline, and the Jasper, a single-buttoned three-quarter-length sleeve crop jacket in gemstone colors. “Our design inspiration is to dress the woman up into a person who has inner strength, yet with outer gracefulness and feminine,” says chief designer Shannon Lee. “We design the pieces with the idea of the woman wearing mix-and-match pieces of each collection in a versatile manner, from Mondays to Sundays, and still looking unconventional and stylish.”
Look out for: Their latest Spring/Summer collection dubbed “Honey in a Rock,” showing at the Blueprint Emporium. Girls who are looking for that extra sparkle in their wardrobe can go for the Onyx, a sleeveless shell top with captive cascading drapes down the right, or the Iridot, tailored knee-length shorts with single front pleats, double back pockets, cuffed hems and tarnished metal studs, priced between $108-168.

Next: 4 New Local Accessory Labels

Don’t Miss!

Blueprint Emporium, taking place May 21-22 at Hall F, Marina Bay Sands Convention Centre, 10 Bayfront Ave., part of the fashion extravaganza Asia Fashion Exchange (AFX). Here, you can shop for much of the local ready-to-wear and accessories featured in this story, available for sale only at the fair. To further show your love for our local fashion designers, you can also get your hands on the latest Cruise and permanent collections from Hansel, alldressedup and Sifr, among many others, alongside other regional retailers and international brands, including Bangkok’s coveted Greyhound. Better start saving up and marking your calendars now.

The buzz: 3,900 sq. ft. worth of Americana fashion goodness at the up-and-coming Knightsbridge.

The vibe: Two floors imbued with Tommy Hilfiger’s signature design elements such as the use of vintage posters, iconic New York landscape posters and references to the American flag in shades of red, white and blue. Oak herringbone carpet flooring also create a rustic look, with bright Persian carpets thrown in for a nice contrast.

The goods: For easy shopping and browsing, menswear are stocked on the ground floor while the women can get their fix upstairs. Go for the trademark Yacht Club pieces with a navy, classic feel available in mainly white and red spanning parkas, shirts and peacoats. But if contemporary preppy is more your thing, go for the Blues collection (our personal favorite), including knitwear pieces like the jersey Henley and shirts with sheer, tonal stripes made from chambray. The fine-striped boy shorts and seersucker blazer are also signature items.

Why you’ll be back: Because classics never die.

#01-09 Knightsbridge, 270 Orchard Rd., 6733-8432. Open daily 10am-10pm.

The buzz: This is the first standalone boutique for the budget-friendly high street UK label, opening at the lush The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands.

The vibe: The industrial-inspired floor of the 1,600 sq. ft. space sets the mood, making it one of the more accessible boutiques in the building. Merchandise is displayed in a mix-andmatch manner—shirts, pants, scarves and even hats are placed near to one another for an easy grab-and-go shopping experience—great if you’re seeking quick sartorial references.

The goods: Womenswear at the front, and menswear at the back of the store. While there are a plethora of blazers, blouses and dresses to browse, ladies should keep an eye out for more luxurious pieces like the studded orange see-through dress ($299) and pleated jumpsuits ($279). While guys can choose from a heady range of men’s polo tees ($99), basic black crew-neck T-shirts ($99) and denim hoodies ($169) that make great staples.

Why you’ll be back: If you’re looking for French-inspired chicness without having to blow your budget, it’s perfect.

#B2-112 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Ave., 6688-7253. Open Sun-Thu 10am-11pm; Fri-Sat 10am-midnight.

As much as we love Fall/Winter’s more austere colors and classic cuts, it’s fun to let loose once in a while. And there’s no better time than Spring/Summer to indulge in a little bit of color or print and a huge dollop of attitude with cheery, bold and sumptuous collections that will have you looking like a sartorial star in no time.

Jil Sander
#02-22 Hilton Shopping Gallery, 581 Orchard Rd., 6304-1353.
With Belgian designer Raf Simons at the helm, expect nothing less than a stellar collection fusing couture-like sentiments and luxurious fabrications topped with sensational colors. Dresses and full-length skirts come in colors so bright (neon pink, deep lime green and shocking orange, a first for the label), Sander’s trademark subtle hues have been literally thrown out the window. The cuts are equally compelling—voluminous pants that are as comfortable as they are striking, broken up occasionally by vertical and horizontal stripes with floral print for that touch of irreverence.

Dries Van Noten
#02-26 Hilton Shopping Gallery, 581 Orchard Rd., 6304-1355.
The ever reliable Dries van Noten works up another fashion storm with pieces that fuse glamor with a utilitarian twist. The colors and cuts may not be as show-offy as the rest of the selection here (think whites, pastels, nudes and monochromes), but look closer and the details will bowl you over. Subtle inclusions like Chinese porcelain motifs, peach sequins and flower prints are embedded in tunic tops and palazzo pants—all anchored beautifully by sophisticated shapes and cuts like Pagoda shoulders, high-waisted overalls and double breasted jackets that will put Lady Gaga to shame. Keep a look out for the Gradated pastel prints inspired by the work of Belgian artist Jeff Verheyen—these babies are certainly collectible.

Future Classics
A Curious Teepee, #02-24 Scape, 2 Orchard Link, 6820-1680.
Although less well-known than the rest of the labels featured here, Londonbased Future Classics (founded by Julie Wilkins) has been consistently churning out clever, deconstructed womenwear since 2000. Available for the first time here at lifestyle store A Curious Teepee, these “modern vintage” inspirations use only luxe materials—silk, cashmere and wool—and with blink-and-you’ll-miss’em details such as seams and facings that are left exposed. The silhouettes are avant-garde and feminine all at once, especially the semi-couture dresses and half-dresses (skirts and blouses) in bold, shocking pink and orange. Look no further for your next party outfit.

D&G
#01-21/02-11 ION Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn, 6304-1366.
If you’re looking for a getup to the next tea party, D&G’s Spring/Summer selection is it. Inspired by English gardening outfits, the collection is a hodgepodge of flowery prints (featuring rose, hydrangea, freesia, violet and mimosa motifs) with Vichy patterns which permeate canvas dungarees, trousers, dresses, gowns and patent wedges. Summer has never looked breezier with these accessible and easy-to-wear finds.

Kate Spade
#01-23/24 Raffles City Shopping Centre, 252 North Bridge Rd., 6338-0969.
Equal parts resort and vintage wear, the ever effervescent Kate Spade ups its color palette further with a range of bags and ready-to-wear that will perk up your mood in no time. Rainbow hues and lime green leaf motifs are exactly what the style doctor prescribed for its ready-to-wear dresses. Coupled with inspired accessories featuring flamingo, palm tree and butterfly motifs—this is perfect stuff to bring out your outgoing demeanor (without trying too hard, that is).

A.P.C.
#02-28 Raffles Hotel Arcade, 328 North Bridge Rd., 6224-5502.
It’s not all about being OTT for OTT’s sake for Spring/Summer. For a more wearable and practical selection, head to A.P.C for the latest in contemporary French minimalism. But there’s a catch: You might still stand out from the crowd with its more neon-hued pieces—not necessarily a bad thing. Minute details like floral prints are still apparent in knee-length dresses, as well as baby blue and lime green sweaters, and fire-engine red pants that will have you looking like Sofia Coppola in a good mood. What more can you ask for?