For a decade, Barrio Bonito blessed Koh Chang and then Bangkok with its Mexican fare. Following its sudden closure in October, the Commons-dwelling restaurant has been reborn as La Cocina, bringing a fresh look and a whole new menu in tow.

Inhabiting the same corner as its bright-muraled predecessor, the new venture brings a more refined air, with light woods, Japanese linens, low-hanging wires and rattan lamps, and counter seating overlooking the workings of the small, pristine kitchen.

While still staying true to the essence of Mexican cuisine, the menu takes a health-conscious bent—think house-made corn tortillas tinged orange by the addition of sweet potato and loaded with grilled cheese, grilled cactus, kale, avocado salsa verde and pickled veggies in the Guerrero (B140/piece), or marinated New Zealand grass-fed beef tenderloin, avocado slices, grilled spring onion and green salsa in the Torero (B190/piece). The traditional ceviche (B280) is made with fresh fish of the day, seasoned with lime and salt, and served with a tangy red salsa, while the guacamole (B300) is served with either tortilla chips or sweet potato chips.

The drinks, too, have taken a mighty turn, with a host of aguas frescas (homemade flavored waters), like the classic Jamaica (B100)—a mildly sweet hibiscus cold infusion—and the Pina-Cilantro (B100), a refreshing pineapple and coriander water. For something a little stronger, the ever-changing wine list is packed with solely organic and natural wines (B300/glass). If cocktails are your thing, you can still have a margarita (B250) or a michelada (B190).