The food: If you’re eating in the main dining area, order to share. The menu’s designed for it, and this also means you won’t miss out on some of the delectable small bites like the umami-rich and crispy-chewy AB tacos, where taco shells are stuffed with Wagyu bulgogi that’s been marinated in sweet soy sauce (B340). Get the tuna pizza for its sheer novelty—it’s tuna sashimi on a crispy golden crust with a heady drizzle of white truffle oil (B290). For heartier fare, we liked the grilled octopus with smoked jalapeno sauce that’s served on a pillow of potato foam (B480). Don’t fill up on the savory stuff though; the chocolate soufflé here is an absolute must-order, managing to be decadent yet light, its crust soft enough that your spoon sinks straight through.
The drinks: The full gamut of alcohol is at your disposal, from sake and wine through champagne and beer. Given the raw-fish and –meat focus of the menu, the suggested complement to your meal is a glass of Matua Sauvignon Blanc (B350/glass) or Champagne.
Why we’d come back: The menu is a master class in fusion cuisine. Clearly, Back understands how to isolate ingredients and flavors and puzzle them together again in a creative way that ensures the sum is greater than its parts. Really, who else has successfully united sashimi and pizza? Kankanok Wichiantanon
