This is the esteemed Zanotti's laid-back sister, serving up "Italian tapas," a jazz quartet performing ever night until midnight, a sprawling lawn and a wide selection of wines by the glass. Still, Vino retains many of the traditional dishes that have made Zanotti such a fixture of our Italian fine-dining scene, from pizza to risotto and osso bucco. A range of fine cigars is also available.

The Setting: Both the decor and the older expat crowd (bankers) give it a men’s club-like feel. Flattering lighting and different seating areas (including a cigar lounge). Live jazz on some nights. Smart service.

The Selection: Very impressive selection of 500 wines, an overwhelming majority Italian. The range of wines available by the glass changes frequently, with prices starting at about B240.

The Verdict: Vino’s has hit the nail on the head: without neglecting the food, this place actually feels like a wine bar. Staff are fairly knowledgeable. It is, of course, expensive.