Think of the foreign influences on this city and you would probably think of the sizeable Chinese, Indian, Japanese and Korean communities that add their own distinctive touches to Bangkok living. But these more visible sections of society are mere tips of the iceberg when it comes to the cosmopolitan mix of cultures that make up our capital. So here we take you on a little journey, exploring some of Bangkok’s diverse communities. And if we forgot your particular country, then Argentina, and the rest of you, don’t cry to us. It’s a big old world out there.
The Arab World
Where to find them
Disparate influences ranging from Egypt to Morocco and Iran to Lebanon, can be found sprawled across Nana (Sukhumvit Soi 3). Even the Coffee World here has signs in Arabic.
Eat the food
Alif Laila (2/9 Sukhumvit Soi 3, 08-6835-9537) serves up some great baba ghanoush for those fond of eggplant. Otherwise, settle for something a little simpler, such as the perfectly grilled roadside lamb/chicken shwarma, or deep-fried falafels. The recently opened Nomad (Sukhumvit Soi 12, 02-229-4448) serves a blend of North African fare from Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia. Try their royal couscous served with lamb, chicken and vegetables, B490, B790 (large). If that’s a little too filling, head next door to their live music lounge where they offer bite-size tapas along with your drinks.
For a traditional glass of mint tea head straight to Al Majlis Tea Room (83/8 Soi Charoenchai, Ekkamai 12, 02-392-2345) where they have over ten flavors to choose from. You’ll be served your tea, scorching hot in traditional teapots while you relax in their comfortable palace-like interior.
Get your fix
Once you’ve eaten your food it’s time to work it off. Belly dancing might look sultry and sensuous to the onlooker, but in reality, it’s one hell of a workout. Sign up at the Rum Puree Dance Studio (5/F Amarin Plaza, Ploenchit Rd. 08-1430-6684, 08-1439-0200) for the Tribal Belly Dance class.
Alternatively, relax in the rooftop lounge of Gazebo Sukhumvit (Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-655-2475/6) where you can bask in the breeze and smoke flavored sheesha from Egypt. For a more authentic feel, head back to Alif Laila where you can puff away while sitting under the mist fans on their outdoor balcony.
Australia & New Zealand
Where to find them
Bradman’s Sports Bistro (Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-661-7176), previously known as Downunder Sports Bar, is a restaurant and sports pub offering pool, cold ones and the best in live Aussie and Kiwi sports coverage.
Eat the food
There are a few Australian BBQ eateries to choose from all along Sukhumvit starting with The Sports Corner (Sukhumvit Soi 20) which fires up homemade burgers, ribs and pies.
Big John’s Backpacker Hostel & Restaurant, as the name suggests, offers both accommodation and Aussie food, including a great range of Big John’s classic Aussie pies. If you happen to be shopping at MBK, then you can also get this Aussie delicacy at the 5th floor food court.
Get your fix
The Australian-Thai Chamber of Commerce (20/F, Thai CC Tower, 889 South Sathorn Rd., 02-210-0216/-8) has a monthly calendar of art and music events, like the upcoming concert by Australian guitarist Tommy Emmanuel on Oct 28. They also hold seminars, focus groups and the part business, part social networking event Sundowners, whose next gathering is on Nov 5.
Another very prominent association is the Australian-New Zealand Women’s Group, which is responsible for all kinds of charity work. One of their main annual get-togethers is The Melbourne Cup charity luncheon, held on Nov 4 to celebrate the famous Australian horse race.
For the men, if you don’t want to just watch the sport then there are plenty of options. Aussie Rules fans can contact the Thailand Tigers, who play intra-club matches, mostly at Bangkok Patana School, all throughout the year. Visit their website, www.thailand-tigers.com for more information. Alternatively, get in touch with the Southerners (www.southerners-bangkok.com) a very social sporting bunch who have teams playing rugby, cricket and also netball.
French
Where to find them
Find a French restaurant in town and there’s a good chance there will be some French people around. You can also find the wine sipping crowd at Wine Pub (2/F Pullman Kingpower Hotel, Soi Rangnam, 02-680-9999) and the partying crowd at Parkbridge (3/F 5 Patpong Soi 2, 02-236-5006) on their Thursday Paris Paris theme night which features DJ Steek on the decks.
Eat the food
Le Beaulieu (Sofitel Residence, 50 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-204-2004) is one of the best in town. On weekdays, Chef Hervé concocts a three-course business set lunch for B450. Some highlights include the baked Tasmanian salmon and bouillabaisse Marseillaise.
If you’re on a lower budget then you can still enjoy a good cup of coffee, some real French bread and patisseries at La Boulange (2-2/1 Soi Convent, Silom Rd., 02-631-0355). For the French, food and wine go hand in hand so head straight to Wine Connection (The Third Place, Thonglor Soi 10, 02-714-7548) where you can drink by the glass as well as stock up the cellar.
Get your fix
Alliance Francaise (29 South Sathorn Rd., 02-670-4200) is your gateway to French art and culture in Bangkok. They’re known for their major annual festival (La Fête) but also run regular art exhibitions, performances, workshops and seminars, film screenings and of course French language classes. For a walk on the wild side, they also have Savate or French kick boxing classes taught by French boxer Dominique Fontanarosa, for B7,950/30 hours. Call 02-670-4222 for more information. For a full sensory overload of Gallic art, dance, music and films then you’ll just have to wait for La Fête 2009.
German
Where to find them
The long-standing Bei Otto (1 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-262-0892) is a bar, restaurant and deli in one and is therefore, the biggest German hot spot in town.
Eat the food
Most of the German eateries in the city serve you good food coupled with great beer. Check out the indoor/outdoor Old German Beer House (Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3838) on Friday nights where you can dig your teeth into their special BBQ pork. For some beer, Bei Otto has real German brews on tap: hoffbrau (dunkel and weiss) and frustenberg (pilsner).
Get your fix
The renowned Goethe-Institut Bangkok (18/1 Soi Goethe, Sathorn 1, 02-287-0942/-4) is famous for hosting its classical concerts and varied art exhibitions.
Israeli
Where to find them
Annually over 100,000 visitors, most wearing backpacks, come to Thailand from the Land of Milk and Honey. Their temporary residence tends to be Khao San, but you’ll find a lot of the more permanent Israeli community a few blocks down at the Chabad House (108/1 Soi Rambutri, 02-282-6388).
Eat the food
If you’re looking for a cheap and quick Israeli meal, head straight to Mama Sandwich (Khao San Rd., next to the police station) where you’ll find falafel sandwiches and a salad for B50. If you want a proper sit down dinner, then Chabad House has a huge list of Kosher food and more. You won’t miss it, it’s big and brightly lit and very popular.
Get your fix
Chabad House isn’t just a restaurant but also acts like a community center and regularly holds events and activities. It also houses a synagogue with services held everyday at 10am. Visit www.chabadthailand.com for more information.
Italian
Where to find them
Italians are known for their love for food, so it’s no surprise that most of the Italian people hang out at the multiple Italian eateries around town, like the long-standing institute, L’Opera (53 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-258-5606) which is a restaurant-cum-wine bar.
Eat the food
For some authentic wood-fired pizza and many (around 300) other intriguing Italian delights, try Bacco (35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538). On the weekends, this place is as loud as a market place, but even with a full house, it never fails to deliver. The salads are served in thin breadbaskets and range from simple garden salads to combinations of avocado and rock lobster (B300). But if you’re looking for the real deal, stick to their stuffed piada sandwiches or of course, their pizzas, B120-440, try the Parma ham and rocket salad.
Of course, there is always the old timer apartment-style bistro, Gianni Ristorante (34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-252-1619), where Chef Gianni Favro cooks up special dishes like ravioli filled with savory cod.
Get your fix
You could do worse than visit Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall to soak up some Italian culture. After all, this imposing building was designed, in a neo-classical renaissance style, by the Italian architects Mario Tamango and Annibale Rigotti for King Rama V. For a more modern fix, try Cafe Buongiorno (Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-3471) which occasionally shows Italian films. Like the French, the Italians too have an annual cultural festival, organized by the Embassy of Italy and the Italian Trade Commission, that is held to celebrate their National Day on June 2.
Laos
Eat the food
Vientiane Kitchen (Sukhumvit Soi 36, 02-258-6171) is both an indoor and outdoor place serving homemade and authentic Laos fare. The pla la there is really pla la and not some watered down Thai version. Café Chili (G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9877) although considered a big jambalaya of cuisines, has a pretty extensive list of Lao dishes. It might give off a hiso feel (considering the location and the prices), but you won’t be disappointed by the food. Try the som tam pla la or the naam phrik pla la served with fresh veggies.
Philippines
Where to find them
At the various churches, especially on Sundays and at Little Home (413/10-12 Soi Thonglor, 02-390-0790) where most Filipino’s go for their national food fixes outside their own kitchens.
Eat the food
Besides trying to scope out the Little Home that’s closest to you, you also have the choice of Mabuhay Restaurant-cum-karaoke bar (1/31 Petchburi Soi 19), which serves up both Filipino and Thai dishes. Otherwise, head to Sukhumvit Soi 71. Word has it that a tiny new eatery has recently opened its doors.
Get your fix
On Sundays, a lot of the Filipino community gather at the churches around town, two in particular: Assumption Cathedral (23 Oriental Lane, Charoenkrung Rd., Bangrak) or the Holy Redeemer Church (123/19 Soi Ruamrudee, 02-225-6615) for Sunday mass. For a cultural fix, you might have to wait for the Filipino Independence Day, Jun 12, next year. It’s an annual event hosted by the various Filipino organizations around town. This year was also the first year of the Pinoy Fiesta, which included a variety of fun programs, music, dance and food. They’re looking to make it a yearly event so keep yourselves posted by visited www.siampinoy.com.
The United Kingdom
Where to find them
At the British Pubs spread along Sukhumvit.
Eat the food
Whether it’s fish and chips or shepherds pie, The Londoner (basement, UBC II Bldg., Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-261-0238/9) food takes you back to blighty. Head there on a Wednesday for their buy-one-get-one-free promotion and compliment your food with a pint of their home brewed London ale. Better still try the Sunday Roast Buffet, B450, where you can tuck into classic English delights like roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, apple pie and custard.
Get your fix
A popular event for UK expats is the Punchline Comedy Club, at the Bull’s Head (Sukhumvit 33, 02-259-4444). The show usually takes place every couple of months and features well known stand up comics from the UK circuit. Not in the mood to get picked on? Then tune in to the various events hosted by The British Club (189 Suriwongse Rd., 02-234-0247, www.britishclubbangkok.org). From weekly buffets and wine tasting to art exhibitions and plays, like the upcoming Murder in the Library on Oct 31.
But the highlight of the British calendar is the Ploenchit Fair! An annual event hosted by The British Community in Thailand Foundation for the Needy. The fair includes a variety of game booths, food stalls, activities, raffle draws and usually quite a lot of booze. This year it marks its 51st year and will be held at the Shrewsbury International School (1922 Charoen Krung Rd., 02-675-1888) on Nov 29. For other UK events, keep yourselves up to date with the British Council (254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64, Siam Square, 02-657-5678. www.britishcouncil.org/thailand.htm), which is a hub for arts, culture and education. They often hold fashion and photography contests like the recent Transforming Public Spaces and art exhibitions like the ongoing Martin Reeves Photography Exhibit which runs until the end of this year.
Vietnam
Where to find them
Rebuilt in 1834, the Immaculate Conception Church became known as Bot Ban Yuan or Vietnamese village church due to the large numbers of Vietnamese who worshipped there. Today, the area around the Church in Soi Mitrakham is still a focal point for the Vietnamese population in Bangkok especially after Sunday services.
Eat the food
Opened and operated by Meyong Robson, the first Vietnamese person to work as an FBI special agent, Xuan Mai Restaurant (32 Sukhumvit Soi 13, 02-251-8389) is known for its reasonable prices and amazing food. Try specialty dishes like cari ga (B200), Vietnamese style chicken curry with roti or the hu tiey my tho (B120), Southern Vietnamese styled noodle soup.
Another choice is Thang Long (82/5 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit, 02-251-3504), a simple restaurant decked out in modern fixtures and bright pop paintings. One of their main dishes, served with salad, is the cha chien xa, fried whole fish with lemongrass and soft shell crabs. They also have two dozen wines to choose from so you might want to head there after working hours.
Get your fix
The Sunday Market (Samsen Soi 11-13, 6-10am) is bustling with street vendors selling Vietnamese delicacies like muu yor (steamed pork sausage). But more importantly, it’s the one time of the week where Bangkok streets turn into a Vietnamese “local” market for the people in the community to catch up on the latest gossip in a place that oozes with the essence of home.
USA
Where to find them
A lot of the American families live ensconced in the Nitchada gated community. But when they venture out, they head to places like Woodstock Bar & Grill (44 Soi Thonglor 13, 02-715-0202/3) a family-style sports bar and restaurant that serves up all the burgers and beers Uncle Sam could want.
Eat the food
If you want your food big, bulky but delicious then head straight to Roadhouse BBQ (1-4 Rama 4 Rd., 02-236-8010/1). Their lunch sets are B250 and include an appetizer and an entrée. For B280, you get an extra choice of dessert. Try the key lime pie. Head there on a Monday night for their BBQ wings special, buy 10 and get another 10 for free.
For some Cajun chicken and shrimps, head straight to Bourbon Street (29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi 22, Washington Square, 02-259-0328/9). This long-standing American institute specializes in southern and Tex-mex food and has an all you can eat buffet from 6-10pm on Tuesday nights. Of course, if you’re priority is to eat quickly, Burger King never fails to hit the spot. (Try G/F Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.)
Get your fix
For some full on American style food, music and people, head to the red, white and blue decorated Hard Rock Café (424/3-6 Siam Square Soi 11, 02-251-0797), where you can eat your mac-n-cheese, pound some beer and watch the fake Elvis. For more wholesome fun the USA Fair 2008, hosted by AMCHAM features family focused activities and events. It will be held from Oct 31-Nov 2 at the Royal Paragon Hall (Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000).
THE BIG 4
Korea
The Community
Most of the Korean community live around Asoke and the surrounding vicinity so it’s no surprise that Sukhumvit Plaza at the corner of Soi 12 is dubbed Little Korea.
Eat the food
The Plaza offers back-to-back Korean BBQ restaurants with menus out front, letting you browse before you make your choice. One such choice is a place called Arirang (02-653-0177/8). This particular venue sets itself apart from many other Korean BBQ restaurants with its bright and modern look and a great ventilation system, leaving you smelling like the soap you used and not grilled beef. The portions are small but the ingredients used are top quality. Their mains average about B300+ and it’s a good choice to order the do-it-yourself beef off the grilled meat menu.
Get your fix
Fashionable bags anyone? Try the Sharon Latex & Flower Shop (Sukhumvit Plaza, 02-653-2638). Despite the peculiar name this place offers a number of Korean designer ladies handbags. The plaza also has a salon where you can be treated to a manicure and pedicure by trained Korean beauticians and mini-marts where you’ll find imported Korean snacks.
Of course, for a healthier method of embracing the culture, the Asia Pacific Taekwondo Academy (622, 8/2 Emporium Tower, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8979) will tell you that you are never too old to start the national sport of South Korea. You can choose to join their adult classes or opt for private sessions in this popular martial art. For schedules visit www.asiapacifictaekwondo.com.
Japan
The Community
The Japanese population in Thailand stands at a little over 42,000 people and approximately 31,000 of these live in Bangkok. Japanese workers, many working for big technology and motor companies, tend to inhabit a swathe of central Sukhumvit, from Soi 33 all the way to Soi 55 (Phrom Phong-Thong Lor).
Eat the food
The large expat Japanese population is good for all of us because it means we have a huge choice when it comes to tasty cuisine from the Land of the Rising Sun.
For tonkatsu (deep-fried pork in breadcrumbs), try our favorite, Katsu King (32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-260-0776). You get the usual fatty vs. non-fatty katsu plus a choice of different fillings like cheese or garlic. If it’s ramen you’re after then head to Tan Tan Men (Sukhumvit Soi 33/1, 02-259-9599). Don’t be fooled by the cheap prices and tiny pictures because their bowls are huge (B130-170), even for those with a hearty appetite. If you’re really looking for Japanese fare with no particular dish in mind, then head for the top-of-the-line, Tsu (JW Marriott Bangkok, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2, 02-656-7700) where Chef Akihiro Izumi rolls out some of the city’s best sushi and sashimi made up from the finest imported ingredients, of course, all for a price (B300-2,500). Another, elegant and discreet venue is Shunbo (33/5 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-254-5885). Try the grilled saba (B350), torched right in front of you, at your table. To finish the meal, the Japanese love their sweet snacks and Custard Nakamura (595/12 Sukhumvit Soi 33/1, 02-259-9630) is their little deli/bakery heaven on Earth.
Get your fix
If you want to cook up your own three-course Japanese meal at home, head to either Isetan Supermarket (5/F Isetan Department Store, CentralWorld, Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-255-9898) or UFM Fuji Super (Sukhumvit Soi 33/1, 02-258-0697 or Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-1250/-5) for all the imported Japanese ingredients you could ever think of. They sell everything from fresh produce to packaged goodies. Craving your dose of green tea? You’ll have more than just Mount Fuji to choose from there.
For literary delights, make your way to a large Japanese bookstore called Tokyodo (2/F Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-129-4475/6) where you’ll find everything from health and food magazines to the latest mangas.
The Japanese Foundation of Bangkok (10/F Sermmit Tower, 159 Sukhumvit 21, 02-260-8560/-4) often holds activities to promote Japanese arts and entertainment in the form of exhibitions, concerts and monthly film screenings. Catch the last screening of the month: Mizu No Naka No Hachigatsu or August in the Water, a 1995 film directed by Ishii Sogo (with Thai subtitles).
India
The Community
The number of Indian residents in Bangkok is between 90,000-100,000 people, with the biggest community coming from the Punjabi region of Northern India. Little India (Pahurat, Chakraphet Rd.) aside, the community is scattered across Sukhumvit, especially in Sois 10 and 12. This fact becomes blindingly obvious whenever one of the many Indian festivals rolls around. Whether it’s throwing colored powder on Holi (festival of colors) or setting off fireworks on Diwali (festival of light), the people gather in their sois just as they would back in the sub-continent.
Eat the food
The latest addition to the city’s countless Indian eateries is the India Gate Restaurant (1896 New Petchburi Rd., 02-716-5119, at the corner of soi 12), which has a long and extensive menu of vegetarian and non-vegetarian North Indian delicacies. They also serve up some south Indian fare, try the variety of dosas (B110-145) thin and crispy pancakes served with lentil soup and condiments. If you’re looking for something you don’t come across too often then their thali sets, like the seafood thali (B385), offer a bit of everything: appetizers like shrimp and fish from the tandoor, curries, rice and naan.
For a grand dining experience, reserve yourself a spot at the posh and elegant, Rang Mahal (26/F Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-261-7100). You’ll be treated to a great variety of authentic Northern Indian food coupled with live music and a great view of the city.
To satisfy your sweet tooth, stick to the bite-size desserts you get in Pahurat, specifically at Punjab Sweets (636/5 Chakraphet Rd., 02-623-7606, 02-623-7457). Their creamy barfi, a type of dessert prepared using condensed milk filled with a layer of chocolate is a sweet delight and just B220/kg.
Get your fix
The quickest way to embrace Indian culture is a visit to Jolly Video (Sukhumvit Soi 10, 02-653-3328) to find the latest from Bollywood. Once you’re done browsing through the cds, dvds and magazines, head next door to the tiny, but well stocked Indian grocery store. You’ll find all the classic Indian spices plus traditional staples like masala tea and freshly made paneer (cottage cheese, B250/kg). For a taste of Indian beer, head to Value Mart (Sukhumvit Soi 12,
02-261-5955) for a bottle of Kingfisher.
Chinese
The Community
Although the gold stores, food stalls and souvenir shops in Yaowarat are the first things that come to mind, the Chinese influence in Bangkok certainly doesn’t stop there.
Eat the food
There are plenty of great Chinese eats in Bangkok, from the baa mee kwang tung along the street sides (Sukhumvit Soi 26) to the posh Peking duck served in the five-star eateries. Try China Palace (297 Siphaya Rd., 02-631-5111/-3, 02-236-6519/20) where the staff have mastered the art of removing the crispy duck skin in wafer-thin sheets. Another eatery that’s less on ambience but isn’t compromising on the food front is Lim Kwong Meng (294 Chula Soi 15, Rama 4 Rd., 02-215-4171). The shouting from the kitchen and the moody servers is a small price to pay for the mouth watering suckling pig and steamed crab.
If you’re craving some dim sum, try the all you can eat dim sum buffet at Sui Sian (10/F Landmark Hotel, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-254-0404). For B399, you are served huge pieces of freshly made dim sum, ped yang (barbeque duck), salapao and all the Chinese tea you want. For dessert, try the pusa thod. It’s deep fried egg and flour batter stuffed with Chinese plum paste.
Get your fix
Regular Tai Chi is an ideal way to maintain a fit and healthy lifestyle. This traditional Chinese art of flowing circular movements helps with blood circulation and in turn manages stress levels and improves your immune system. Sign up for the beginners, advanced or intensive courses at the Tai Chi Society Thailand (Sukhumvit Soi 20, 08-5990-9902) where they have four trained professionals to choose from. For a little more action-oriented work out, they do also offer kung fu.
The hottest global language at the moment is Mandarin, for obvious reasons. Sign up for your classes at the Chinese Language Center (Soi Saphankhoo Rama 4 Rd, 02-287-3874). You’ll have trained teachers from Taiwan drilling you on either the weekend (B5,000/54 hours) or the weekday, twice a week (B3,900/48 hours).
