Stuck in Bangkok this holiday? Take a day trip to one of these delicious nearby food destinations. 

Nakorn Pathom

Nong Great

Right across from Phutthamonthon Park, you'll find this superb Southern restaurant that offers a huge pile of vegetables on every table for you to enjoy. If you’re afraid of all the heat, head for the air-con room as the alternative is like an outdoor food court with no walls. The must-try dishes include the kua kradook on (stir-fried baby back ribs with chili paste, B60), which is full-on fiery, and the moo krob (deep-fried pork, B60) that will help balance out your meal. This is the place for those who crave Southern food the way it’s really served down South. 

Phutthamonthon Sai 4 Rd., 089-777-4875. Open daily 6am-3pm (close on last Thu and Fri of the month)

Chachoengsao

Baan Paa Nu

Set in an adorable 100-year-old wooden house facing Bang Pakong River and serving delicious, fresh homemade food, Paa Nu makes for a great stop-off on a culinary tour. This family-owned restaurant puts the focus squarely on local ingredients, evidenced by dishes like the gaeng kiew waan (green curry with fish, B120), in which they use local toddy palm, and the nicely rounded namprik khai poo (chili paste with crab, B120).

Talad Baan Mai, Supakit Rd., Mueang, Chachoengsao, 089-400-0805, 038-817-336. www.baanpanue.com. Open daily 10am-9pm

Ayutthaya

Ton Nam

With its great view of the Chao Phraya River, Ton Nam is a must on the checklist for anyone chasing gung mae nam (river prawns) with big, fatty heads. The other dishes don’t quite stack up, but this place is the real deal when it comes to those grilled prawns—perfectly cooked and very, very fresh. We recommend going for the medium size (B600-B700 per kg, 2-4 prawns). Add a drop of nampla prik for an unbeatable taste.

Baan Lane, Bang Pa-In, Ayutthaya, 035-261-006, 035-262-398. Open daily 10am-8:30pm

Pathumthani

Pae Pochana

Hidden in Talad Rahaeng, Pae Pochana boasts a classic wooden terrace over a small canal, resulting in a laidback country vibe. Unlike other restaurants here that specialize in only a few dishes, ordering can be difficult as all the options are pretty impressive. We say take the chance to order some not-so-common dishes like the tomyam kraproe moo (spicy soup with pig’s stomach, B120), krueng nai moo tord kratiem (stir-fried pig’s intestines with garlic, B120) and pla chon bai tung oh (stir-fried snakehead fish with Chinese spinach, B150). Even though the lunch crowds might be very hungry, you won’t see anyone complaining as the owner is a bit of a notorious grump.

Talad Rahaeng, Lat Lum Keaw, Pathumthani, 02-599-1398. Open daily 8am-2pm

Suphanburi

Kui Mong

Open for more than 90 years now, Kui Mong is known for its very comforting dishes, particularly their huge prawns (it’s quite normal to find a 1kg prawn here). The place does a delicious gung tord gluea (fried prawn with salt, B600-B900) that is lightly fried to aromatic perfection. We recommend going for the B500 option if you love the super juicy head fat. But do call ahead as sometimes they run out pretty early. Another great choice for Suphanburi is the famous restaurant Mae Buay (across the street), which we think is equally impressive and makes the drive all the more worthwhile. 

Amphur Bangplama, Suphanburi, 035-587-256. Open daily 10:30am-3pm

Samutsongkram

Jae Maew

Jae Maew might not draw the biggest crowds, but their dishes outshine anyone else’s in their neighborhood, which is famous for seafood. The kitchen is run solely by a friendly auntie, while the restaurant is managed by her husband. The super fresh seafood and the succulent dishes include the soothing gaeng som (spicy soup with tamarind) and the stewed pomfret with pickled plums (pomfret is B1,000/kg) which put the spotlight on her skillful cooking.

Mueng, Samutsongkram, 034-713-911. Open daily 11am-7pm 

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Prepare a feast at home this year-end.

By Chef Nan Bunyasaranand of Little Beast

4-5 pounds turkey breast, skin on, boned and butterflied

Brining Liquid
3 liters water
1 cup salt
1 cup brown sugar
1 head garlic
5 sprigs sage
5 sprigs thyme
2 sprigs rosemary
3 tbsp black peppercorns

Put the water, salt and brown sugar in a stock pot and simmer until all the salt and sugar are dissolved. Turn off the heat, add all the herbs and black pepper, and cool completely. Submerge the turkey in the cool brining liquid and let it brine in the liquid for eight hours in the refrigerator.

Chestnut stuffing
3 cups white bread (diced in 1"x1" cubes)
1 cup chestnut, cooked, peeled and ready to use
1/3 cup clarified butter
2 cup onion, diced
1 cup celery, diced
1 tbsp Salt
1/2 tsp black pepper
1 head garlic, minced
3 tbsp sage, chopped
1 tbsp parsley, chopped
3/4 cup chicken/turkey Stock
3/4 cup cream
1 egg

Heat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius, bake the diced bread for 10 minutes then cool completely. In a sautee pan, add clarified butter and once hot, add onions, celery, salt, and pepper. Cook until the onions and celery are 60% done, add garlic, sage and parsley, then turn off the heat. Put the toasted bread and onion/celery mixture in a mixing bowl then add chicken or turkey stock, cream, and a beaten egg. Fold all ingredients together and reserve. 

For Roulade
2 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
3 tbsp melted butter
sea salt, to taste

Take the turkey out of the brine, rinse, and pad dry. Lay the butterflied turkey breast skin side-down on a cutting board. Sprinkle the meat with 2 tsp salt and 1 tsp pepper. Spread the stuffing in a half-inch-thick layer over the meat, leaving a half-inch border on all sides. Starting at one end, roll the turkey like a jelly roll and tuck in any stuffing that tries to escape the sides. Tie the roast firmly with kitchen twine every two inches to make a compact cylinder. Place the stuffed turkey breast seam side down on the rack on the sheet pan. Put the turkey back in refrigerator without any covering to dry off the skin for at least two hours. Then brush the skin with the melted butter, sprinkle generously with sea salt, and roast for 60 to 90 minutes at 160 degrees Celsius, until thermometer registers 65 degrees Celsius in the center. Allow it to rest at room temperature for 15 minutes. Carve half-inch-thick slices and serve warm.

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Could Rattanakosin be the perfect neighborhood? Can urbanites really survive in these nostalgic dwellings without expressways and trains to whisk them into town? BK finds out about the slow life before the arrival of the MRT changes everything. 

 

Why did you dump Sathorn district to live in the old town?

I’ve always wished I was born 100 years ago. It’s a beautiful era. That’s why I always love to travel around to nostalgic towns like Luang Prabang in Laos, Bagan in Myanmar and Hoi An in Vietnam, where I got married to my wife. We both love old towns. When I started building The Siam Hotel in Dusit district, I realized that our family owned an old building in the old town, too. It’s right in front of Rommaneenat Park. It used to be the office of my family business but was abandoned and became derelict. No one had lived there for more than 60 years.

How has your family adjusted to the area?

It’s really easy. Apart from the inconvenience of renovating the house while we’re living here, we don’t have anything to complain about. If you ask my kids [six and four years old], who were used to living in a condo in Sathorn, they’ll say they never want to move anywhere else. Though my house sits right on the main street [Mahachai Road], I’m so comfortable. If people look up to my window on the second floor, they might see me walking around in my underwear!

Is it convenient?

I’m lucky that my workplace, The Siam, is close to my house and also close to my kid’s school. So we can be at both places within 20-30 minutes in normal traffic. But it’s a bit tricky to get into the city. I don’t really go to the city center unless I have work there. I haven’t been to Thonglor in ages.

 

 

What is the great charm of the area?

This area was once the Sukhumvit of Bangkok. For someone like me, who used to live in New York, it’s the Bangkok version of Soho. It’s bustling during the day but in the evenings, it’s really peaceful—not only my house, the whole district. I love the fact that when I walk down the street, I see people sitting in front of their houses chatting to each other. I often have a chat with my neighbors. It builds trust in the community, seeing the faces of the people around you. That’s what we need in Bangkok. We’ve lost this.

How do you feel about the arrival of the MRT?

I think it will benefit everyone. It will save people time—time we should spend on other things we love, like family. I’m lucky now that this area doesn’t have too much traffic, though.

What are your favorite places around the area?

There are many. For eating, Seven Spoons and Brown Sugar are my favorites. At Seven Spoons, I love their tapas appetizers, which are both good and cheap. I also enjoy strolling around Saphanlek where there are toys and games for sale. I always stop to sip coffee at SOHO Coffee—good coffee for just B35. But my favorite place in the area is Klong Thom Market. I walk around there every weekend looking for antiques and old stuff to add to my collection.

 

 

 

 

What’s so charming about your neighborhood?

Things don’t change much around here. The bars on Phra Arthit might change but my neighbors are mostly the same people I’ve been saying hello to since I was a kid. It’s not as hectic as along Sukhumvit. You can also enjoy the arts very easily, here: from temples to museums, classical Thai music and even the cute old lifestyle of people on my soi. I’m really lucky living here.

What’s made you appreciate art so much?

I was raised in a family of artists. My great grandfather was one of the first people who took care of the Fine Arts Department. There have been Thai dancers, musicians and writers in this house. Basically, this neighborhood has been my place of learning.

You had an office life before; was it hard commuting into the center of town?

The hardest part of living here might be getting around. I used to work in Silom and my record for being on time wasn’t too pretty. Public transport is not punctual, though public boats are your safest bet. But even when I had an office life, the good outweighed the bad by far. Going to the park—watching old people exercising, foreigners juggling, smelling the river [which doesn't stink here] and listening to the waves lap the bank. The parks are essential. It’s where locals meet and interact.

Do you miss being in the city?

Only when I want to see a movie. One thing you really don’t have in the old town is luxury­—but not everyone needs it. For me, I have to trek a bit further for a slice of cheesecake as the nearest mall, Tang Hua Seng, offers only khao mak [fermented rice].

What are your favorite things to do in the old town?

I recommend going to the National Museum. Not so many Thais visit the place. It’s not trendy but it’s got a very charming vibe with its big lotus pond. It’s very quiet there. Taking a boat on a canal tour is also one of my favorite things to do with my dad. Thais don’t know much about it, but it’s amazing.

 

 

Favorite eating spots?

Khao Gaeng Raan Pen on Rambuttri Road and Aa Aisa’s khao mok nuea [beef with biryani rice] and guay tiew gaeng [noodles in curry]. For more proper places, I usually go to Escapade Burgers & Shakes for their burgers or Seven Spoons. The food is so delicious there and you’ve got some good bars, great jazz and top coffee just around the corner.

What’s behind the sense of community here?

I think it has been built from the beginning. During certain festivals, we do some activities together, like making merit. During the film festival, people even open up their homes for screenings. It’s like we’ve preserved the culture of a village. People have respect for each other. If someone wants to change their place into a guesthouse, they would come tell us directly. I think that’s pretty rare. I think it’s because there are hardly any new faces moving in. In the city, people might just move in for the short-term, so they don’t have that sense of attachment. Here, we know there’s a story we all share and we’re proud of it.

What are your neighbors like?

If you grew up here, you can choose to be anything you want. You can be yourself. This freedom allows for lots of different characters and personalities.

Have you ever thought about moving elsewhere?

We were once offered lots of money for our place. But there’s nowhere we could get a house like this. The biggest tree in our house, my dad planted it when he was a kid and it’s grown up with him. I've planted one myself, too.

 

BK ASKS

What do you like most about your neighborhood?

 

Michael Biedassek 

 

co-founder of Bangkokvanguards,

 

lives near Dinsor

 

 

 

I like that we have building regulations in the area, which mean that there’s no skyscrapers and you find old buildings dating back to the beginning of the 20th century. Then there is the village atmosphere, with certain people being known for specializing in specific crafts such as the production of utensils or Buddhist sculptures. It’s a rich community that keeps growing organically.

 

 

 

 

Chanod Tangsin

 

28, business owner, lives in Pom Prap Sattru Phai 

 

 

 

Nothing is new here and that‘s what’s charming about it. Also, no place is isolated. Everything is close by so it’s easy for me to wander around to places like Tha Prachan, Tha Tien and Klong Thom. There is a drawback to living here, though, which is the lack of parking spaces if you need to drive.

 

 

 

 

Sidtrun Santichaikul 

 

28, photographer, lives in Tha Tien

 

 

 

Even though I have had to move a bit further down the road due to the construction of a community mall, what makes the place home

 

is the familiar backstory and faces. The buildings may age but the sense of community remains unique as Tha Tien was the first shophouse community built in Bangkok. We all know each other and our community is similar to what you might find in the countryside.

 

 

 

 

VipaVi VienRavi

 

33, brand consultant, lives in Banglamphu

 

 

 

The vibe in old town is very unique. You've got a beautiful road like Ratchadamnoen with one side being the old European-style buildings and the other side the temples. The area mixes hip Bangkok with the distinctive traditional culture. I'm right also in the middle of every big festival, from New Year to Songkran and it's such fun.

 

 

 

What do you like about your neighborhood?

Life is very diverse in the old town. I love walking down the street because you know you are always going to see different people, from prostitutes in dodgy dark corners to hi-sos in those hotels by the river. Many people bike but I don’t. You see more of what’s going on around you when you walk. I can stop at any building I want to take a look up close or walk down any soi I want to explore. If you live in places like Ladprao, it’s really difficult if you want to just stroll around and the vibe is totally different.

Do you think the MRT will have any impact on people’s lives?

I think we already have decent transportation: buses, boats and tuk-tuks. I can get to the MRT or BTS in about 20 minutes. With the MRT coming, it will be even more convenient, but knocking down the really old buildings in Yaowarat is not the way it should be done. Those buildings should be preserved and the MRT built a better way.

What’s the rent of this shophouse?

B20,000 a month. It costs a fortune living here as you have to fix so many things due to the buildings being pretty old. The worst problem is the termites.

 

 

What are your favorite places?

I find the Khao San area a bit boring, but I like the night market behind Wat Chana Songkram. The vibe is very chill and the space is much bigger. For hanging out, I recommend Babble & Rum at Riva Surya. It's by the river, quiet and the food is not expensive. Khao Tom Fa Mui is a great choice for late-night people. Just make sure you don’t miss the moo krob tord gluea [fried pork with salt]. We also have a good izakaya here at Musashi Bar while Adhere is one of the few places you can find real blues bands in town.

What do you like most about your neighborhood?

I grew up in a family who loves eating. So this place is heaven for me. The food here is cheap and the quality is great. And we’ve got plenty of parks, places where people can connect with each other. It’s perfect for dating, too.

Why did you choose to live on Phra Sumen Road?

We’re lucky that everyone here is against transforming the area into a loud and drunken nightlife area like Phra Arthit. We share the same interest of admiring the culture in the area, so we have pretty unique places like Passport Bookshop, Dialogue, Brown Sugar and lots of little cafes. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How long have you lived here?

Ked: I was born here. My parents lived here selling salapao (Chinese bun) for 10 years.

Em: I moved here nearly 10 years ago from the Ramkhamhaeng area.

 

How do you get around?

Ked: We both use public transport. As you can see, it’s hard to find parking here.

Em: I have no plans to buy a car. I think it’s really convenient living here. It’s near important places like The Grand Palace or Sao Chingcha [Giant Swing] and even the BMA Office. You will never get lost. Everything is so close at hand.

 

What do you like most here?

Ked: I work in the city center at Ploenchit. Having to travel to such a bustling area, when I reach home I really appreciate how peaceful it is. It’s a slow life, here. I love that the neighbors know each other. I also love that buildings here are low-rise. I’m able to walk and see a clear sky filled with iconic attractions like the Giant Swing.

Em: I like the city planning, here. It’s clearly defined: block after block. It’s like nowhere else in Bangkok. You can walk along the street and see beautiful buildings. Everyone knows each other and there are always shops open on the street for late-night street food, so I feel safe walking here.

 

 

Any cons of living here?

Em: Yes, the protests. As you know, this is a place with a long history, especially regarding politics. As such, Democracy Monument is always one of the main places people gather to protest. It’s quite hard to get around at these times. Other than that, it’s really a pleasure to live around here.

 

Have you ever thought of moving to the city center?

Ked: I considered buying a condo to get to work easier, but then I thought of what we have here: the buildings, the parks, the people. It’s really warm and welcoming. So, I ditched that idea.

 

How do you feel about the arrival of the MRT?

Em: We love it. It’s going to be great for people and tourists to visit here. I don’t think it will change the sense of community that much, because many people who live here come from families who have lived here for generations. It’s hard for them to sell up and move out.

 

What’s your favorite place in the neighborhood?

Ked: I love Lan Kon Meaung for its cheerleader troupes practicing their routines, old people doing their tai chi... I also love Phra Athit Road: it’s not modern like Sukhumvit but it’s got a real charm. My favorite food is Siriporn Pochana which is just across from my house. Their tomyam pla is superb. Its tangy sourness perks me up every time.

Em: My favorite place for shopping here is Klong Lod. I can find anything there: fabric, vintage bags, classic glasses, antiques and even plants.

 

 

 

 

 

 

What do you make of the changes in your area?

It’s completely changed from how it used to be 30 years ago. Tha Tien used to be one of the most bustling markets in town as it sat right on the bank of the Chao Phraya River. The old times here were so great. My family business went really well: our kitchenware and cleaning items were in great demand. But when convenience stores arrived, our business, as well as those of our neighbors, didn’t do so well. When I came back from Australia, I decided to open a small café called Food Route as I learned how to bake while I was abroad. There are many tourists who go to Watpo Thai Traditional Massage School in my soi on Maharat Road so it really fits the bill.

 

Is it hard to get around from here?

For cars, yes. The traffic is bad. So my first choice is the Chao Phraya Express Boat. It’s so convenient as I just walk to Tha Tien Pier then hop out at Sathorn Pier to get into the city.

 

What’s the charm of living here?

It’s the sense of community. People have lived here for generations. Grandpas knows grandpas, parents know parents and, of course, kids play together. It’s really hard to find in today’s society. Those old people who moved out because their children live elsewhere still come back to chat with their old friends. It’s a real bond.

 

 

What do you think of the arrival of the MRT?

I'm really scared that it will become another Khaosan Road. I like that the MRT is coming but the community here must be strong in order to retain its charm. What’s the point of turning this place into a street of endless guesthouses and cafés? We should retain our identity as a residential area with small shops owned by people who live in the area.

 

What are your favorite local joints?

It’s mostly food places. I recommend Kim Leng at Kok Wua junction. It’s a small baan-baan restaurant that’s a real hidden gem in the area. I love their mee krob [fried crispy noodle]. Another one is Farm to Table near Flower Market. I love their black sesame ice-cream and green tea float. There’s also the Yen Ta Fo Nai Auan near the BMA office. It’s superb. As I’m running a restaurant, I love to buy ingredients at Trok Mo Market. Everything there is so fresh and bursting with flavor.

 

 

 

 

What’s your routine like living here?

 

Now it's strawberry season, so for fruit suppliers like me, we sleep from 5pm-1am. The products arrive at 2am, which if you are sleeping, is the loudest hour. Some shops open normal hours so Pak Klong Talad is literally a place that never sleeps. Say you come back home drunk at 3am and try to sneak in quietly—the next morning, your parents will hear all about it from the neighbors anyway.

 

Have you ever thought about moving elsewhere?

I once thought about moving to a condo after finishing my Master’s Degree but once I realized how much my parents love living here, I started to like it, too. I took on my parents’ business after starting to help them during the economic crisis. Once I learned how exhausted they were, I couldn’t not help them.

 

What do you like to do in your free time?

Riverside cafes are always my venue of choice. But if you visit the area and have the energy, it’s a really great place for a walking tour to visit the temples. You should start from the Grand Palace, City Pillar, Wat Suthat, Wat Pho and Wat Chana Songkram, then take the shuttle boat across the river for Wat Rakhang and Wat Arun before coming back for Wat Kalayanamit and San Chaopho Suea.

And your favorite food?

Jae Pom on Saphan Lek. Their beef noodles are amazing. The price starts from B80 but you get a really big tender chunk of beef. Do go early as they’re all done by around 1pm.

 

 

What are the problems living in Pak Klong Talad?

Parking is a troublesome. We can’t park our cars in front of our houses like elsewhere because there are vendors set up on the street. We have to park at a monthly rental spot on the riverside or sometimes across the river. The traffic is pretty bad here, too, especially at Chinese New Year or Valentine’s Day. A few years ago, the two were on the same day­—the traffic was nuts. It’s a hectic place but it’s home for me.

 

 

1. Escapade Burgers & Shakes

This tiny shophouse with an equally petite courtyard out the back serves up the homemade liquors of mixologist Karn Liangsrisuk and the juicy burgers of chef Van Rohitratana. We recommend a beef burger (starts from B180) with homemade ketchup. 112 Phra Athit Rd., 087-363-2629, 081-406-3773

2. Food Route

Tucked deep in the old town, this small café serves a variety of tea and coffee with homemade baked cakes and cookies. Coffee here starts from B50 and cakes include the Yakult pipo cake (B75) and coconut cake(B70). They also offer homey organic dishes. 320/10-11 Maharat Rd., 02-622-1921

3. Seven Spoons

This eatery, now in a bigger space, serves up healthy and delicious, homey and hippie American meals such as a quinoa salad with grilled vegetables and feta (B260) or razor clams with tarragon butter (B290). They are now also open for lunch with a menu that includes the delicious tempeh wrap with mixed greens, roast eggplant, tomatoes and green chutney (B160). 22 Chakkrapatipong Rd, 02-629-9214  

4. Dialogue Coffee and Gallery  

Set in a 100-year-old house, this coffee shop and art gallery serves up drinks and snacks: cappuccino (B50) and quesadilla with meat sauce (B90), plus some wine (from B140 by the glass). 533 Phrasumen Rd., 084-754-8799

5. Babble and Rum

Make the most of its location right beside Phra Arthit pier by heading to the outdoor terrace at sunset for the full package: comfort food (smoked salmon and avocado salad, B290), tasty cocktails (candy-flavored vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly, B280) and views that take in the river and two bridges (Pinklao and Rama 8). Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02-633-5000 

6. Sheepshank

The folks behind Seven Spoons bring us this sophisticated boat house where you can sit back and enjoy river views while noshing on dishes like the seafood paella with Spanish saffron (B320). Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-5165

7. Farm to Table

This organic café not only grows their own vegetables, in Phu Chee Fah, but turns them into ice cream with flavors like sesame, green tea and wheat grass (B35 per scoop). Order it as an affogato (scoop of ice cream with espresso shot, B80) or stick with the iced latte or green tea (B45). They also do daily lunch specials. 179 Asdang, Wongburapapirom, 02-115-2625

8. Bamsha

This old-school shophouse serves up coffee, exhibitions and events like poetry readings, painting classes and live folk music. Food includes their signature Bamsha burger (B150) to go with their drip coffee (from B60). 507 Prasumain Rd., 084-160-0052

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There’s always room for new dessert joints in town. 

The Pastale

The Pastale has been delivering its bakery treats to office workers in Bangkok for a few years already through their Facebook page. Now, they’ve launched a proper café serving up sweets like chocolate croissant B60), scones (B70) and Thai tea crepe cake (B110). Savory bites include waffle with hamburg (B155) and spaghetti meat balls (B165).
 
Suthawong Bldg., Wireless Soi 1, 089-811-2576. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 11am-6:30pm 

Pop Me Up Café

Another place that was born as a Facebook page, Pop Me Up offers up a large selection of bite-sized cakes (B60) in flavors such as chocolate, red velvet and toffee. They also hold some workshops about crafting sugar into many wonderful forms.
 
Sukhumvit Soi 63, 086-571-2262, 02-381-5355. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm 

Stickhouse

While you’re counting down to the opening of the Garrett Popcorn Shop (said to open in December), try out its new neighbor Stickhouse, which boasts of original gelato served in popsicle form. You can’t walk by without noticing the place’s bright pink decor, so why not take a punt on the hazelnut or strawberry flavors—or something patriotic like the Thai Flag which comes in watermelon, butterfly pea and coconut. Prices start from B89.
 
G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-7682. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm 

Mori Dessert Bar

Japanese Chef Mori Yoshida, of Patisserie Mori Osaka, offers up new and delicious ingredient combinations such as the cheddar popcorn chiffon (B175) or you can also stick to their classics like strawberry red bean mocha and matcha chiffon (B175) or mixed fruit and cheese mousse (B180).
 
Mercury Ville, Ploenchit Rd., 02-658-5518. BTS Chidlom. Open daily 8am-9pm 

Luk Kai Thong

There are so many things going on at Paragon lately—from all the new restaurant openings on the G/F to the new sweet zone on the 4/F. Joining other new dessert cafés like Tart to Tart and Royal Sugar there is Luk Kai Thong, which has hit our sweet spot with its Pang Cha Luk Kai (bread topped with Thai tea, sweetened condensed milk and almond, B175)—insanely comforting and delicious.
 
4/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9520. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm
 

FRESH DELIVERY

New online bakeries

White Day Patisserie (www.facebook.com/whitedaypatisserie, 092-458-6571) specializes in Japanese sponge cakes with cutesy decoration (price start from B500). Here you can also get made-to-order delights like strawberry shortcake, banoffee pie and lemon cheesecake. Orders must be made three days in advance. They are open Mon-Sat from 7am-8pm.
 
A Peace of Cake’s (www.facebook.com/apeaceofcake.peace, 089-983-4806) signature is the Burmese-Thai Friendship cake (B390 per pound), while other treats include the brownie cheesecake (B450 per pound) and light chiffon mandarin orange cake (B360 per pound). They also provide delivery and catering services. Order three days in advance.
 
Sistermade Homemade (www.facebook.com/sistermadeHomemade, 082-996-2246) offers made-to-order sugary treats with an emphasis on customization. Their specialties include the cake balls (B250 for a box of 12) and Hedgehog cake (B700). Orders must be placed two days in advance and workshop appointments for sample designs and tastes can be made one week in advance.
 
Yanin’s Homemade Patisserie (www.facebook.com/yaninshomemade, 082-777-6555) does delicious made-to-order homemade desserts like the famous Tahiti vanilla macarons (B42) and strawberry, rhubarb and vanilla tart. Order must be made 2-3 days in advance.

 

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Meet the foodie specialists recreating top global flavors right here in Bangkok. 

Got a taste for artisanal fare? Here are some more local handmade products we love.

Ekameth 'Tay' Witvasutti of Brave Roasters

 
Bangkok's hipsters know all about One Ounce for Onion, the fashion retailer turned café, and a lot of that is down to their roaster, Ekameth Witvasutti. He first caught our attention with his old brand, Taytay Coffee, which supplied the beans for top coffee shops like Casa Lapin and Gallery Drip Coffee and at pop-up events all over town. Tay is serious about his coffee, treating it as an artisanal tradition. He buys his beans directly from local farms and roasts them himself—and the result is one fine, flavorful brew.
 
 
What does it take to be a good coffee roaster?
I think what matters to be a good coffee roaster or any artisan is how well you can communicate with your customers. I don’t claim to be anything, I just know what I’m doing and I’m trying hard to help consumers understand the differences between beans of different regions, even different roasters. A true artisan is one who knows their product inside and out, and can broaden the minds of their customers.
 
Do you also follow the global coffee trends?
Yes. It’s like following a band you like: the more knowledge the better. Now, I’m concentrating a lot on suppliers for imported beans, as I’m unable to travel to countries like Ethiopia just yet. What’s also important is that customers follow the trends, too, to really keep us pushing forward.
 
What’s hot in the coffee world right now?
Other countries have already moved beyond the idea of a “third wave coffee culture.” They’re adapting this appreciation for handcrafted goods into their everyday life. These countries have many people who care about their coffee enough to demand high quality. Here in Thailand, we need more people who, even if they can’t talk about coffee seriously, simply crave a good cup of coffee. 
 
You studied music originally, is music still a part of your coffee life?
It plays a part. Both music and roasting are matters of interpretation. I’ve learned from every bag of beans I’ve ordered both locally and abroad. I’ve learned from every whiff and every color I’ve experienced. What I’m doing with beans reflects my personal taste in coffee. It’s simple: if you like my coffee, then we just have similar tastes.
 
Brave Roasters Coffee is available at One Ounce for Onion, Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-116-6076. Open daily 9am-5pm. www.facebook.com/braveroasters
 
 
Top Coffee Spots
 
 
Casa Lapin
The oh-so-trendy Casa Lapin (Thonglor Art Village [between Soi 17 and 19], 353, Sukhumvit Soi 55, Bangkok, 081-257-7920) now has three branches, but our heart still lies with the original hole-in-the-wall Thonglor branch, where chances are you’ll find coffee expert Surapan Tanta, who makes one of the best cups of coffee you’ll find in Bangkok. Coffee starts from B90.
 
 
Ceresia Coffee Roasters
Owned by a Venezuelan family, Ceresia (593/29-41 Sukhumvit Soi 33/1, 086-843-8235) sells single origin and original blended coffee sourced from a variety of farms worldwide, roasted in small batches on-site and rotated seasonally. Filter coffee at B95 or a flat white at B95.
 
 
Roots
Owner of Roast at Seenspace, Varatt Vichit-Vadakan, has now opened Roots (between Ekkamai sois 15 and 17, 088-190-5950), which is all about coffee. Take a seat at the rich dark wooden bar to pair an espresso with a croissant or try the cold drip. They also host a variety of coffee-related classes, too. 
 
 

Reinhard Matheis and Chanida Sitthikeson of Heaven on Cheese

 
Reinhard Matheis has been making cheese since 2008. He learned everything himself—from books, meeting with other artisan cheesemakers, and old-fashioned trial and error. Matheis has since settled in Nakhon Sawan, where he makes cheese using milk from a small local farm, claiming to never compromise on aging time to ensure the fullest flavors.
 
What makes artisanal cheese different from other kinds of cheese?
Reinhard: Artisanal cheese should be a handmade cheese crafted in a traditional way. Depending on the type of cheese, it is quite time-consuming but the result is far superior taste-wise compared to industrially manufactured cheese, which is usually a lot weaker in taste. This stabilized cheese never really matures, which is the reason why it tastes so weak.
 
What makes a good cheese?
It’s when you plan to just have a wedge of Camembert but you end up finishing the whole wheel. It’s that right combination of scent, texture and taste, which make a huge difference.
 
How should you store a cheese?
Refrigerate it at 3-5 degrees Celsius, leaving it in the original cheese wrap. You can also put it inside Tupperware so that the cheese does not absorb the taste of other food inside your fridge. 
 
 
Why do you make cheese?
We make cheese not because we have to or because we are seeking wealth—it’s passion that drives us. This combined with careful crafting, excellent ingredients and no shortcuts in production result in a tastier and generally better quality product than industrially manufactured cheese.
 
Heaven on Cheese products are available at The Dusit Gourmet (Dusit Thani Hotel) and Bangkok Baking Company (JW Marriott). It is served at Le Petit Zinc (Sukhumvit, 02-259-3033 and Yenakart, 02-249-5572) and Quince (Sukhumvit Soi 45). More info at www.heavenoncheese.com
 

 
Easy DIY Cheese at Home by Heaven on Cheese
 
Creamy Lemon Cheese
 
Ingredients :
1 liter of heavy cream
1 liter of milk
¼ cup of fresh squeezed lemon or lime
 
1. Heat heavy cream and milk in waterbath or double boiler to 85 degrees Celsius.
2. Add the lemon/lime juice and stir well.
3. Rest for 20 minutes.
4. Put the resulting curds in a cheesecloth-lined colander and drain.
5. Hang the cheesecloth with the ends tied up for 1-2 hours (or until the curds stop draining). You can add salt depending on taste.
6. Refrigerate and enjoy.
 

Michael Conkey of Conkey’s

 
Michael Conkey, the owner of a production house, also has a small bread business. You can only find Conkey's products in a select few restaurants, who love its perfect texture and delightful smell. You'll notice this bread's different the second you crack it open—the results of lots of experimenting.
 
It seems that farmer’s markets and small producers are popular right now.
It’s interesting, I’ve been here for about 20 years and things have changed a lot. Now you have guys like the Accidental Butcher, Joe Sloane and many good cheese makers in Pattaya. It’s something exciting and it goes to show that a lot of Thais don’t just eat soft breads, like many think.
 
 
"Artisan" is a bit of a buzz word today; what does it mean to you?
Anybody can call themselves an artisan. I think being one, though, means you make things carefully, much different to mass-produced products. It requires extensive training and a real understanding of your product. It’s a craft. It’s about making things beautifully with your hands. It’s a very intimate thing.
 
What makes your bread so delicious? 
We have been trying for so long to find the right balance, flavor and character in our bread. There are no chemicals added to help with this or to extend shelf life. We’re just doing it the right way, as much as we can. 
 
Where did you learn your recipes and techniques?
I took an intensive course in the US where I learned a lot about sourdough. Learning a recipe is one thing, but experience really makes it special. It’s about knowing how far you can push the limits of your bread, how long you should deal with the enzyme activity to develop a natural flavor and getting the perfect balance before baking it. The big commercial producers don’t worry about this. It’s too risky and not economical for them.
 
What should you look for in good bread?
The look isn’t everything for bread. Smell, acidity and texture are also important. It should have body. The best thing with good bread is when you combine it with another great artisanal product, like good olive oil, pepper and oregano, then the whole thing will be just perfect. 
 
For more information on Conkey’s bread, contact 089-166-6080. www.facebook.com/conkeysbakery
 
 
 

Jean-Philippe Arnaud Landry and Tom Kirk of Maison Jean Philippe

 
Jean Philippe is previously worked under a Maitre Artisan Boulanger (Master Craftsman Baker) whose bakery was just nominated for best bakery in France this year, and has been in operation since 1906. Together with his supportive business partner, Tom Kirk, the team bake daily and distribute to roughly 40 places in Bangkok. In order to keep to traditional French methods, they’ve had to customize their equipment, such as their stone oven, while paying special attention to little details like the couche (the cloth on which the bread is shaped) to the storage that control the bread's humidity.
 
Why do you make bread?
Jean-Philippe: It’s a creation. It feels like I’m creating something. Every day is different and so is my bread, too. 
 
What makes your bread different?
We could have done things differently, tried to find shortcuts but that’s not doing things the right way. We still treat our sourdough like a baby—doing it the traditional way. We still use our hands for almost everything, which is not the case with industrial bread. Ratios are important. It’s not rocket science but it’s still a science.
 
Is it challenging to find the right ingredients?
 
Everything here is sourdough-based and we have to deal with the humidity and temperature. We think we have a pretty good knowledge of flour. We use very fine ingredients, from dark rye to spelt flour and pure French butter, as Thailand still doesn’t have the specific types we need in order to make bread that meets our standards. 
 
What does “artisan” mean to you?
It’s become an overused word. You cannot just call yourself an artisan in France as it has a legal meaning. We think of “artisan” as a guild within which you have to abide by certain standards. What we’re doing here is just the same as we would do in France. 
 
What’s your most memorable moment?
We went to a place to discuss business and this guy who found out about our bread literally jumped up and hugged Jean-Philippe and thanked him for making real bread. We were surprised.
 
For more information on Maison Jean Philippe, contact 083-111-5557 or www.facebook.com/MaisonJeanPhilippe
 
 
How to make artisanal bread 
 
Ingredients:
• Good flour, preferably organic
• Salt
• Water 
• Sourdough starter (also called leavening)
 

1. Mix the starter with water, flour and salt. Let it rest. Don’t add sugar.

2. Over the course of three days, regularly shape and fold the dough. Because sourdough starter is much less powerful than industrial yeast, it takes a long time to make the bread rise.
 

3. Shape the dough.

4. Put it in the fridge for 15-30 hours to develop flavor and texture.

 

5. ake it in the oven for around 50 minutes on an oven-proof plate.

6. Enjoy.

 

Joe Sloane of Sloane’s

 
A few years ago, Joe Sloane quit his job as an executive chef at a five-star hotel’s steakhouse restaurant Bangkok to focus on his family and started making sausages in his backyard. Today, he’s got his own professional kitchen for handmade charcuterie spanning headcheese to blood sausage and his range of super-popular bangers. His products are not only full of flavor, but also ethical and sustainable.
 
How are you managing production on a much larger scale than before?
Everything is still handmade and the same as before. Our recipes haven’t changed. It’s just larger equipment. It’s still done slowly. A lot of industrial companies make their bacon in two days while ours takes two weeks. It’s carefully done, step by step.
 
Why is British charcuterie popular?
It’s actually very similar to the French style. Britain has many breeds of local pigs, so chefs can just order in whatever kind they want. In Thailand, your local pig is a wild boar—hairy and black, which is suitable for the weather, but people tend to think the pink ones are nicer and cleaner. Even though they’re raised free-range, the pink ones still need shade as they do get sunburned.
 
 
How can charcuterie be artisanal?
Do it properly with good quality meat and good cuts. It’s all about love, care and attention with a human touch; not just throwing in bits of meat. I use the shoulder part of the pig to make sausages it’s a good mix of fat and meat. Also, the idea of a happy pig is still important—that means no hormones and no antibiotics. It’s also the traditional British way to use the whole pig, from head to tail. 
 
Villa Market, Sukhumvit Soi 33, www.sloanes-sausages.com
 

 

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By now, you must have figured out that the words Kobe and wagyu are good news to any meat lover. But do you know Japan’s many other cow-loving regions? 

Essentials:  spring water  mountainous  hot climate river  lake  sea/ocean  forest

Wagyu is just a breed, that’s why you can get it from places other than Japan, such as Australia. Kobe is a place, which makes some of the best wagyu beef in the world. Now there are actually four breeds of wagyu—although even in Japan kuroge washu, or black hair cattle, accounts for 90% of what gets eaten. (The other breeds are red hair, shorthorn and polled horn.) More importantly, what really distinguishes one chunk of wagyu from another is where it was raised, as the land, weather, feed and local farming traditions can greatly influence the meat’s flavor. Here are the regions you should be keeping an eye out for, and why chefs in Bangkok love them so much.

Miyazaki (Kyushu Island, Kagoshima Prefecture)  

“Even though wagyu beef was originally from Hyogo [Kobe] and Omi prefectures, they don’t compare with the cattle raised in Miyazaki. Miyazaki wagyu are now regarded as the finest Japanese cows and have won various industry awards including the most honored ‘National Wagyu Award’ by the Wagyu Registry Association. The unique characteristics are the cherry red color, tender texture and great dense meat flavors. The snowflake-like fat is evenly distributed and produces a non-greasy flavor,” says Chef Sethasak Anavachasuk of Prime, Millennium Hilton, Charoennakorn Rd., 02-442-2000. Open daily 6:30-11pm. Available in steaks at B3,999 for rib eye (180 grams) or B3,999 for strip loin (180 grams).

Kagoshima (Kyushu Island, Kagoshima Prefecture)  

“I find that Kagoshima beef is similar to Kobe beef, which is one of the best. But since Kagoshima is known for its flavorful pigs, the cows are actually cheaper for the quality you get, which is very tender, fragrant and, again, on a par with Kobe cattle,” says Pakpoom Nukulchitkit of Kaze Fresh Japanese Restaurant, 318 Thonglor Soi 10, 02-392-3544. Open daily noon-2pm, 5-10:30pm. Available in sushi at B450 and steak at B1,400 for 150 grams.

Omi (Honshu Island, Shiga Prefecture)  

“The uniqueness of Omi beef is that they are fed naturally and allowed to walk around outdoors, which results in an earthy taste and smell. The marbled texture and softness of the beef is comparable with famous names like Kobe or Matsusaka. But an Omi wet-aged fillet just tastes unique: earthy and rich, with a steely minerality that reminds me of grass-fed beef and white truffles. Its texture is like butter. You could, quite literally, cut it with a fork,” says Thirawat Panjasophkul of Teien Sushi Bar, Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-5757. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-10pm. Available in sushi at B340 and with rice at B1,400 for 100 grams.
 
“The most beautiful marbling out there. It’s got the great taste and the fat is good for your health. The cattle is raised in the warmer weather, large fields, windy places to keep the cows happy, with some brushing thrown in—what people often call massaging the cows. The fascinating thing about the beef in Japan is that every province has its own technique and ratios for what goes into the feed for the cow. So it all depends on how you like your beef,” says Chavayos Rattakul of Tenyuu Grand, Sathorn Rd., 02-632-1777. Open daily 11:30am-10pm. Available in sushi at B1,200.

Iwate (Honshu Island, Iwate Prefecture)  

“Iwate works best for shabu-shabu as it’s got a great balance of meat and fat. Here, we use A4-A5 grade. The taste of the beef is still amazing while the fat is not too greasy when you cook it in the hot pot,” says Chavayos Rattakul of Yashin, Nihonmura Mall, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-712-6868, 087-508-9395. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 7pm-2am. Available at B1,590 (150 grams) for a shabu/suki set.

Matsusaka (Honshu Island, Mie Prefecture) 

“Matsusaka beef is raised in a quiet and peaceful atmosphere with fresh air. They are fed with plenty of fiber as well as beer to increase their appetites at least once a week. They’re provided with intense care and receive regular massages for relaxation. It is considered to be The King of Wagyu as it has such mellow flavor and melts in the mouth at every bite,” says Kitikorn Penrote of Eat Meat Sweet, 99/11-12 Langsuan Balcony Bldg., Soi Langsuan, 02-684-5944. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-10pm. Available in strip loin steak at B6,500 (250 grams).
Saga (Kyushu Island, Saga Prefecture)  
 
“This beef is really one of a kind. Raised in a serene environment with very pure water, it is a very popular and well-known premium beef in Japan. [Our] Saga beef is of the highest quality (A5) and has beautiful marbling,” says Chef Norio Nomoto of Nami, JW Marriott, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-656-7700. BTS Nana. Available in set menu at B3,290-8,900.
 
 
 

 

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