Circle and Coyote on Convent are owned by the same firm that operates theme restaurants and bars here and in Hong Kong—very successful ones at that. But while Coyote is doing brisk business even during the week, Circle is depressingly quiet. On a recent visit when we were the only customers in the place, we suffered through a number of dishes that sounded much better on paper than they tasted off the plates—in some cases we would have preferred eating the paper. There are so many different elements and nifty little twists in the dishes that the guys doing the cooking, who clearly aren’t at the same level as the guy who designed the menu, inevitably get at least one thing wrong on every plate—and too often it is the main ingredient.