Papillon

Restaurants in the Phra Athit neighborhood tend to all offer the same bland mix of appealing atmosphere, cheap booze and passable food. Unfortunately, Papillon is no exception. Despite the name (“Butterfly” in French), Papillon isn’t even remotely French. Just don’t ask us what it is: with its Thai/international menu, kitschy decor and Latino tunes, Papillon is hard to categorize. What we can say is this: it’s never a good sign when the menu has little boxes explaining what Thai soups, salads and curries are. Filled with almost 100 Thai recipes, alongside steaks and pastas, the menu is too ambitious for Papillon’s tiny kitchen. Thai dishes fare better than farang recipes, but there is still nothing to get excited about. The quality of the food is mediocre and the execution is disappointing. Take their recommended steamed whole seabass in spicy lime sauce. Far from fresh, the small fish was overcooked and arrived in a lukewarm pond of tangy but flavorless sauce. The “ultimate” grilled platter, featured oily spring rolls, four bland buffalo wings and four bite-sized bits of BBQ pork—an “ultimate” rip-off. And just when we thought the meal couldn’t get worse, it hit a new low with the rack of lamb, which was supposedly from New Zealand. The three ribs, though overcooked contained more fat than meat and had an unusually gamy smell that even the accompanying mint sauce couldn’t hide. So, does the butterfly have any redeeming qualities? The two-story shophouse’s atmosphere is both intimate and homey thanks to dim lighting and friendly staff. Vintage lamps hang from the ceiling, while the orange walls are spruced up with kitsch photos and vivid artworks. Adding to its charm are its long happy hours, 2-11pm, when selected “call” (brand-name) spirits are a nifty shot. Papillon also has a buy-four-get-one-free deal on beer. You get the picture: head there for drinks before dinner in a “real” restaurant. Unfortunately, in this neighborhood, you’ll need luck finding one.