Milano
Though there are actually several venues that serve food there, chances are, if you’re heading down to Soi 4 to “grab” something, it’s probably not a “bite to eat.” And Milano won’t do much to change the perception that when hunger strikes, it’s time to leave the soi. What this shophouse-wide pizzeria does offer, however, is a quiet escape from the boisterous al fresco gauntlet, where you can chat with friends and fill your stomach with alcohol-absorbing carbs. There are a handful of tiny tables placed Parisian cafe-close in front of the restaurant, but it’s inside where you can people-watch from either the first floor or get a bird’s-eye view of the street from the third floor while enjoying air conditioning and music that isn’t so loud that it kills conversation. Also helping loosen lips is an extensive selection of drinks at reasonable prices: cocktails (B150), shots (B130 for a “bow job” [sic]), and decent house wine that is an especially sweet deal on Fri-Sat (B90/glass and B360/carafe, plus both glasses and carafes are buy-two-get-one-free). It’s not exactly Wallpaper* stylish, but some thought and effort (and money) has gone into the design and décor. Furniture is made of wood and metal, indirect lighting glows along walls and fresh flowers add a bit of warmth to the mostly white interior. As for the food, it’s nothing special. Pizzas are freshly made, but it’s clear there isn’t an Italian (or even a professional chef) in the kitchen; they come out crispy around the edges but soggy in the center. Another problem with the pizzas is how they’re labeled. A plate-sized pie is called a “medium” (B145-225), which is a bit of a stretch, and one big enough for two is “extra-large” (B195-300), which is false advertising. Still, Milano has some very generous sets, so you can’t really complain when a small (sorry, “medium”) margherita pizza and a bottle of Heineken is only B195 or any medium pizza, mixed salad and beer or soft drink is only B390. The selection of salads includes standards like Caesar (B220) and rocket (B230); avocado-lovers should opt for the avocado and shrimp salad (B230): no lettuce or other distractions here, just a cubed creamy-ripe avocado with big but somewhat bland prawns in a thousand island-like dressing. Interestingly, this pizzeria serves better pasta than pizza. Though cooked too far past al dente, the spaghetti carbonara (B220) was sinfully rich and studded with breakfast-sized bacon. And Milano’s lasagna (B250), a large square of layered pasta, ground beef, béchamel, marinara and melted mozzarella, is surprisingly good. Service is enthusiastic and attentive, although some of the waiters seem more comfortable serving drinks than food.




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