There are plenty of izakaya in Bangkok, but Torajiro might be the most fun. You might not realize this when you enter; you might not even realize this after eating there—downstairs, that is. Because like those after hours nightclubs you reach by walking through a khao tom shop and then up the back stairs, the party is on the second floor. This is why in the slightly more elegant and dimly lit (and non-smoking) ground-level dining room you will find families and couples quietly sharing plates of inexpensive sushi and yakitori. But climb the stairs and you will enter a cacophonous and smoky world of red-faced office workers (mostly salarymen but plenty of salarywomen, as well), students and friends guzzling cheap shochu (B620/big bottle) and beer (B120/big bottle) and flirting with the chatty waitresses. As you would expect, there is a broad range of simple favorites, the majority of which come in small portions so you can sample plenty of different dishes with your drinks. The food isn’t the greatest, but most of it is pretty good and prices are low. The most expensive item on the laminated menu with pictures is the mixed sashimi (B295), which is fine for undemanding palates and excellent value; sets start at a thrifty B70. Other bargains include the imported oysters, which come five to a plate for B160, and a bowl of salty salmon roe for B180. We also like the tiny but flavorful gyoza (B65) and yakitori (B35-45 per stick). Tempura can be a bit greasy here but the taste is right (B120 for fish tempura). Upstairs there is table seating, tatami rooms and a patio that overlooks the courtyard. So don’t expect fine dining at this branch of Torajiro (there is a newer and nicer outlet on Sukhumvit 26), just wholesome fun that won’t cost you much—and you can enjoy yourself until 1am (last order at midnight).