For many people in Thailand, exposure to le fromage is limited to bright orange squares on the occasional burger or to that slightly stinky powdered parmesan in the green can meant to be sprinkled on our pasta. Needless to say, a bubbling cauldron of melted cheese, albeit consumed with bite-size chunks of French bread, is a bit of a hard sell for the average Thai diner. Fondooz attempts to meet cheese virgins halfway with a mix of traditional Swiss dishes, international favorites and fusion items designed to appeal to Asian palates—and it’s not all cheese, either. We generally don’t expect much from restaurants in shopping malls, but Fondooz is a quality operation with high standards inherited from its “parent,” Chesa. The menus are slick and easy to navigate; a range of raw ingredients are displayed supermarket-style in glass cases; the terrific frappes and shakes are made with real fruit; there is even a short but well-considered wine list (and wines are stored as they should be, in a refrigerated cooler); and the staff are well-managed by a whip-smart Thai uncle. In addition to value-for-money lunch sets, Fondooz offers a couple of savory sets as well as a dessert set. You’ll spend a bit more if you order a la carte, but don’t make the mistake of ordering too much: Portions are small, but the food is rich. We began our meal with a couple of appetizers, both recommended by our server and both delicious. The house caesar salad (B150) is a bowl of freshly tossed romaine lettuce (the dark, leafy ends) in a mild dressing topped with four plump grilled shrimp. And the lamb capuns (B180) are four of the traditional dumplings wrapped in Swiss chard leaves on a pool of rich, dark gravy and topped with crunchy bacon bits. We also give high marks to the tortellini (B220) in an obscenely rich cream sauce, although the pak waan in the sauce—making it officially “fusion”—didn’t add an “Asian” flavor to the dish. (It could have easily been broccoli or spinach.) About that fusion thing...we love traditional cheese fondue (especially Chesa’s), which is why we probably should not have ordered the Thai Cheese Set: (B369) cheese “dip,” a plate of blanched vegetables and bread chunks for dipping, side salad and creme brulee (topped, superfluously, with whipped cream). We appreciate the effort, but cheese dip spiked with prik kii nuu tastes like the canned cheese “sauce” that is poured over tortilla chips in American fast-food restaurants and mini-marts. If you can’t handle the standard cheese fondue (B310), we recommend you try one of the suki-style fondues, DIY cooking in either hot oil (Bourguignonne) or stock (Chinoise). For dessert, B400 buys you and your date an impressive fountain of chocolate (B150 for a small pot); a slight annoyance is that fruit for dipping is not included in the price, so you’re probably better off with the Chocolate Fondue Set (B269). Still, for our money, Fondooz is one of the better places in CentralWorld to unwind after a movie or shopping session; it’s bright, casual and friendly, with a nifty view of busy Ratchadamri, especially from its outdoor patio. Corkage B500.