January 9, 2009 | Bangkok
Issue #269: Why I Exercise

Cafe Ice

The place: Cafe Ice

  • Silom Soi 2 (Phiphat), near BTS Sala Daeng and MRT Silom
  • สีลม ซอย 2 (พิพัฒน์), ใกล BTS ศาลาแดง and MRT สีลม
  • Phone: 02-636-7373
  • Daily 11:30am-1am

Café Ice is still a work in progress. The first thing they should improve the service.The staff, though friendly (they will even walk you to the toilet) are not well-informedabout what they serve. They can recite the names of everything correctly, but whenasked to explain more about a dish, they’ll either mutter, “Oh, it’s a secret” or consultwith another waiter before giving a vague reply. Next, they should raise the standardof the food to fulfil the promise made by the prices. The chef is obviously capable,but some of the dishes, especially the Thai ones, are shamelessly overpriced. Really:B350 for kaeng som cha-om kai (sweet and sour soup with acacia omelet)? Or B150for khao mun gai? That said, we did enjoy Café Ice’s European fare. The menu is notthat extensive, but it is well thought out and offers a balanced choice of vegetables,meat, and seafood. Usually we don’t complain about generous servings, but we werestunned by the gigantic portions served here. Everything is so huge it’s almost impossibleto finish a dish by yourself, let alone have more than one course. So we followedthe staff’s suggestion and had “European food, Thai-style”—plates placed in the centerof the table to share. Caesar salad (B360) is mixed tableside and has some nicenon-traditional twists such as cubes of tandoori chicken and Cajun prawns. For themain course, deep-fried crisp-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside chunks of chickenstuffed with ricotta cheese and ham (B450), is big enough to share. The accompanyingsaffron risotto was fragrant, but might be too much for those sensitive to the strongsmell of cheese. A better bet is the pork chop (B450) with cranberry sauce. Thoughnearly on the overdone side, the chop was huge and tender, and went well with thetangy sauce. You can finish off the meal at this “restaurant/art gallery/wine bar” by sippingwine while soaking up the atmosphere and admiring the paintings. Weather permitting,head up to the rooftop terrace that will soon be developed into a proper wine bar. One last thing: despite its steep prices, Café Ice doesn’t take credit cards at the moment, so bring enough cash.

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