Sitting opposite Melba and Mousses & Meringues on Sukhumvit Soi 31, Umami is yet another Japanese restaurant popping up in an already very Jap part of town. However, if you are looking for a classic sushi bar, this address may be too creative for you.

While you can still have sushi and sashimi on tatami seating, the one-month-old eatery has very little in common with other traditional Japanese restaurants. The menu is designed by executive chef Katsutoshi Ishibashi, who has worked in France and Norway.

Unfettered by custom, the chef whips up classic Japanese specialties with unusual European touches. Tori no teriyaki (chicken teriyaki medallion on a bed of mixed vegetables, B350), for example, is surrounded by a doughy parsley-flavored strip. Other oddities include seafood salada (mixed seafood with vinaigrette and soya reduction, B240), sake teriyaki (pan-fried salmon with tortillas and teriyaki sauce, B470) and Asian Tapas (B50-120). Umami puts real effort into its desserts, a welcome break from green tea ice cream and red bean paste. Ask your server for the dessert of the day.

As it is targeted at well-off expats and Japanese, prices may be too expensive for budget diners, unless you choose a set. There are seven lunch sets on offer with prices ranging from B250 for the chicken teriyaki to B420 for sashimi. For dinner, pay B750 and choose any of your favorite main and dessert to go with appetizer, sashimi and a bottle of beer.

(BK#220, Open Door, Jan 18-24, 2008)