1-230 Silom Grand Terrace, Saladaeng Soi 2, Silom Rd., 02-267-0399
Don’t be fooled by Towa’s attempts to portray itself as a traditional Japanese eatery (the sleek sushi bar, the Japanese greeting and the Utada Hikaru tracks playing in the background); it’s as authentic as an Oishi buffet. Lovebirds will like the intimacy of Towa’s nooks and niches and there are private rooms upstairs, though advanced booking is required. However, if you’re here for food, not flirting, then Towa can be a let-down. Service is a mixed bag; the young waitresses, while not knowledgeable, are usually friendly and eager to refill your green tea. The photo-based menu includes some fusion dishes like spaghetti salmon and foie gras sushi, but seems to mostly take its cue from Fuji. The good news is the portions are hearty and, with prices mostly in the affordable range. The bad news is that, like the prices, the quality of the food is cheap. Take the assorted hana sashimi, including raw cuts of tuna, salmon, mackerel, yellowtail, squid and crab sticks. On our recent visit, the tuna could be described as, at best, mediocre; while the salmon looked like it had been simmering in a pool of melted ice. And if your squid tastes slimy and rubbery, forget etiquette and just spit it out. Or else you might end up like us, having to run to the toilet—a good three minutes’ away onto the second floor of the building. And for a restaurant that claims to be an “izakaya,” its grilled items are pretty run-of-the-mill. The yakitori selection is limited to unexciting stuff like chicken, chikuwa (tube-like fish balls) and street-stall-quality sausages. A better bet can be found in the “rolls” selection. The crunchy rolls (tempura rolls covered with tempura flakes) are crisp and filling. Towa may be worth a visit if you are in the neighborhood, but we’ll stick to lunch to take advantage of their affordable daytime sets. Corkage B300.
