Khaoniew Thieng Khuen
Kamphangdin Rd. 053-206-229. Open Mon-Sat midnight onwards.

The name means “midnight sticky rice,” and the grumpy staff at this popular shop refuses to sell their khaoniew until the clock strikes twelve. That’s despite the long line that forms in front of the stall from around 11:30pm. You can pair their delicious sticky rice with toppings like deep-fried chicken, boiled egg and namprik num. Just head there with a lot of patience.

Khum Viang Yong
99/9 Thanom Lieb Klong Chonpratran, Suthep, 053-329-244. Open daily 10am-10pm.

Ten minutes away from the city center is this homely restaurant where you can sample Northern delicacies. Prices are pocket-friendly, ranging from B35-150. Its namprik num and khua hed thob (mushroom soup) are very lum (see Lanna Phrasebook).

Maze Café
12/2 Boonruangrit Rd., Sripoom, 053-400-895. Open daily 10pm-midnight. www.mazecafe.com.

For those who want to enjoy their food in a modern Greyhound-like atmosphere, the two-story Maze Café should do the trick. Expect Thai and international dishes along with some Northern items like khao soi. 

Ong Rod Thip
Chang Puek Rd.

The firm fish balls at this popular noodle shop are so small that the regulars started comparing them to nipples—hence its nickname Kuay Tiew Hua Hom (Nipple Noodles). The math-smart owner can calculate your bill in his head faster than you can count your balls.

Palaad Tawanron
Behind Chiang Mai Zoo, Suthep Rd., 053-216-039, 053-216-576. Open daily 11:30am-midnight. www.palaadtawanron.com.

While the food at this Thai restaurant might not blow you away, the stunning vista of Chiang Mai at night will. Set against the backdrop of Palaad Waterfall, Palaad Tawanron is an ideal place to enjoy the setting sun. Booking is highly recommended. And don’t forget to check out the view from the restroom.

St. Germain des Pres
4/1 Ratwitee Rd., Sripoom, 053-289-557. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2pm, 6pm-midnight.
If you crave something other than sai oua and khao soi, try St. Germain des Pres. Decorated in warm earth tones, the French eatery whips up home-style dishes like bouillabaisse, scallops in calvados cream sauce and beef stew in red wine sauce along with sinful chocolate mousse. A three-course set menu is B575. For a more romantic feel, head up to their rooftop bar.

Waan Lamoon
53/4 Intawarorot Rd., Sripoom, 053-416-185. Open daily 7am-4pm.

This take-away shop is known for its luscious traditional sweets, especially the to-die-for foi thong (B45, B65). But you can also find hearty items like khanom jeen namprik, pad thai and khao soi available at just B45/pack.