Vietnam in Three Stops
Vietnam in Three Stops
February 27th, 2008A look at our neighbor’s most historic cities. By Michele Koh
She has been invaded by the Chinese, the Mongols, colonized by the French and Japanese during the Indochina Wars, and wrecked by the Vietnam War. Yet, more than most nations, Vietnam is a forgiving one. And her compassion is reflected through the acceptance and preservation of her past.
Hue: Land of Warlord Emperors
Hue is the capital city of Thua Thiên province and was the imperial capital of the Nguyen Dynasty, a feudal empire that ruled most of Southern Vietnam between 1802 and 1945. It stradles North and South Vietnam and is pretty much the middle point of the country. This sleepy little city has a population of only 340,000 people and tourists come here mostly to see the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Lonely Planet Picks: Hue
Sleep: Thai Binh Hotel 2 (827-561, www.thaibinhhotel-hue.com, 2 D Luong The Vinh, US$12-15). Great value for money: attractive bedrooms and stunning views from the balconies.
Eat: Y Thao Garden (523-018, 3 D Thach Han, set course meal US$8). Decorated with antiques and set in a tropical garden, this restaurant in the Citadel serves scrumptious Vietnamese delicacies.
Shop: Dong Ba Market (D Tran Hung Dao, open daily 6:30am-8pm). The market sits on the Perfume River, North of Trang Tien Bridge. Being the biggest market in Hue, what you can’t find here, you’ll never find anywhere else.
The Royal Citadel (north bank of the Perfume River) is a mini version of China’s Forbidden City and was home to the founders of the Nguyen Dynasty. One of the more awe-inspiring sights is Minh Mang’s Tomb, the burial palace of the second Emperor of the Nguyen Dynasty. Etched on the walls of its many pavilions are poems written by the emperor, perhaps for his 200 wives and 600 concubines, stone animal statues and a lake for him to fish in. And yet, the emperor never lived here while he was alive, and all this architectural splendor was constructed for him to enjoy in the afterlife.
While the rest of Vietnam sees the dry season in November, Hue is wet and rainy and flooding can be expected. In fact, floods are such a regular occurrence here that most people living in the outskirts of the city leave the ground level of their houses unfurnished as the rain water often seeps in. The only five star hotel here is the Imperial Hotel Hue. Just a year and a half old, the majestic interior is a stark contrast to the rudimentary state of the surrounding town. Designed to look like a royal palace, the rooms look like something the emperor Ming Mang himself would not refuse. Hue still manages to look beautiful in the storm and one way to enjoy the view without getting wet is at The Kings Panorama Bar on the 16th floor which overlooks the river, the city and Ngu Binh Mountain.
Danang: Invaders Beach
Lonely Planet Picks: Danang
Sleep: Dai A Hotel (51 D Yen Bay, 827-532, www.daiahotel.com, US$15-30). This mid-range hotel has free in-room internet and the staff are nice and friendly.
Eat: Apsara (561-409, www.apsara-danang.com, 222 D Tran Phu, approx US$15 per meal). The best dining experience in Danang, this Vietnamese eatery offers great setting, service and wine lists.
Shop: Han Market (Cho Han, corner of D Hung Vuong and D Tran Phu. Open daily 6am-9pm) is rated as a fine place for some evening shopping. During the daytime, hit Con Market (Cho Con, Ong Ich Khiem), the largest in town.
108 kilometers south from Hue is Danang, the third largest city in Vietnam. Danang was occupied by the French, Japanese and Americans, and China Beach (Bac My An) was a popular R&R hangout for US G.I.s during the Vietnam War. Now, it is a fast growing tourist destination and vacationers come here for resorts and sea sports. The most popular is the Furama Resort. Selected as one of Forbes most luxurious beaches in the world, the Furama sits like a fairyland oasis at the end of China Beach.
A 30-minute bus or car ride away will bring you to Hoi An, an ancient Silk Road trading port that UNESCO recognizes as a living museum. It is a colorful and lively hub with custom tailors, lantern makers, shoemakers and arts and craft shops that hawk touristy things, and there are even cute little cafes. For more authentic Vietnamese cuisine, the Ancient Hue Royal Cuisine and Gallery (4/4/8 Lane 35 Pham Thi Lien, Phu Mong/Kim Long Ward, 5459-0356) serves dishes like baby jackfruit salad and steamed rice with lotus paste in a regal and idyllic setting. Other attractions include the Danang Cathedral, Caodai Temple, Tam Bao Pagoda, Pho Da Pagoda, Cham Museum, Hai Van Pass and Marble Mountain.
Ho Chi Minh: Paris of the Orient
Lonely Planet Picks: Ho Chi Minh
Sleep: Madame Cuc’s (madamcuc@hcm.vnn.vn, 836-8761, 836-5073, 836-1679, US$12-20). For budget travelers, try this family run hotel chain. It has three hotels with nice rooms and staff. Or go a tad upscale and try Spring Hotel (829-7362, 44-46 D Le Thanh Ton, US$32-40). The design has a pleasant Japanese touch to it and, while rooms are small, the price is right considering the neighborhood.
Eat: Quan An Ngon (138 D Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, 825-7179, main dishes are around VND17,000-60,000). This restaurant with a patio in its garden has a ring of cooks at individual live cooking stations.
Shop: Dogma (175 D De Tham. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.dogmavietnam.com). Get your propaganda posters, emblem, t-shirts and other souvenirs here.
The French colonial occupation resulted in a city with classical western-style architecture, so much so that Ho Chi Minh (formerly Saigon) came to be called the “Paris of the Orient.” This continental influence can be seen in the historic Notre Dame Cathedral (in the HCMC’s government quarter), Opera House and the jazzy Caravelle Hotel. This five-star hotel comes with in-room broadband, stereo and CDs and is ideal for business travelers. The Saigon Saigon Bar on the top floor was voted best bar in the city by leading publications and offers live music with a feisty crowd. With a population of nearly seven million and a growing economy, Ho Chi Minh succeeds in developing gracefully while still retaining the glamour of its golden age.
Essentials
Country Code
Call: +84
Currency Exchange
B1 = VND507 (Vietnamese Dong)
US$1 (widely accepted) = B32
Where to stay
Imperial Hotel Hue. 8 Hung Vuong Blvd., Hue City, Vietnam, 5488-2222, www.imperial-hotel.com.vn. A deluxe city view room is US$120.
Furama Resort Danang. 68 Ho Xuan Huong St., Sunrise Beach, Danang, Vietnam, 845511-3847-333, www.furamavietnam.com. For US$1,252, you and your partner will get a 4-night stay at an ocean view room, limousine airport transfer, daily brakfast, a bottle of Moet & Chardon, a seafood dinner with a bottle of wine, a 60-minute Vietnamese massage for one and daily shuttle bus to Hoi An. Available all year round, except public holidays.
Caravelle Hotel. 19 Lam Son Sq., District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam,
848-8324-999, www.caravellehotel.com. Rates start from US$208 for a deluxe room.
Getting there
Vietnam Airlines (02-655-4137, www.vietnamairlines.co.th) has a daily fight from Bangkok to Ho Chi Minh. Roundtrip tickets are from B15,000 all inclusive. From Ho Chi Minh, you can further your flight to and back from Hue and Danang with the airline for around B13,300 roundtrip. Danang is a two hour bus/car ride from Hue. Or fly with THAI Airways (02-356-1111, www.thaiairways.com) to Ho Chi Minh. Approximately B8,580 for weekday, B9,130 for weekend. (B3,130 tax are excluded.) Bangkok Airways (02-265-5678, www.bangkokair.com) also has a daily flight to Ho Chi Minh for around B3,750-8,230 one way.
Lonely Planet Vietnam (B875) is available at Kinokuniya, Asia Books and B2S. Try Kinokuniya Siam Paragon, 3/F, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9500. Asia Books the Emporium, 3/F, 02-664-8545/6, BTS Phrom Pong. B2S Central World Plaza, 4/F, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-646-1274/5.
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