Twenty Restaurants Where Your Grandparents Dined
Twenty Restaurants Where Your Grandparents Dined
October 2nd, 2007Some of them have been around for 60 years--and are still going strong. Find out why Bangkokians just can't get enough of these legendary eateries.
Nice to Meat You
Before all the nightclubs and gay bars took over, Silom Soi 4 was known by many as the street where Lert Ros is. In operation since 1957, the diner-like venue was and continues to be a haven for those with carnivorous leanings. The restaurant’s name translates to “delicious,” and popular dishes include khao nuea ob (rice with roast beef), khao muu ob (rice with roast pork) and beef curry. Prices are B55-70.

King of Steak
Back in the 1960s, Carlton was the place for fine dining. It was one of the first restaurants in the neighborhood to serve Western food. The décor was simple, with TVs blaring from two corners of the room, while a band churned out tunes by Elvis and his contemporaries. Fast forward a few decades and Carlton still maintains its classic atmosphere, along with its oldies band and an ageless “continental” menu featuring time-tested dishes like “Carlton’s Famous” Kobe steak (B360), T-Bone steak (B360) and lobster thermidor (B620).
283 Silom Rd., BTS Saladaeng, 02-234-7793. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-11pm.
Over the Moon
From the outside, this dim, washed-out restaurant always appears closed. But Rose La Moon, in fact, has been in business for over 30 years in the Asok neighborhood, and is still well-known among the auntie set. Its claims to fame are its Hong Kong-style pigeon, roast salted chicken and pad phak grajok (stir-fried iceberg lettuce). Prices start at B200.
165/5-6 Soi Asok, 02-258-3406-7. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm.
Fusion Feast
The canteen-like Silom Restaurant is the brainchild of a farang chef and has been serving fusion dishes for over 60 years, long before the term “fusion” was coined. Now the menu features Chinese-style Western dishes as well as Thai food. Opt for one (or all!) of the four recommended specialties: oxtail stew, shrimp salad, pork chops and stir-fried fish maw. Prices start from B100.
793 Silom Soi 15, next to Wat Kaek, 02-236-4442/3. Open daily 10:30am-9pm.
Coffee Legend
The oldest café in Yaowarat, Ie Sae is now 80 years old and still kicking, with over 20 branches in various shopping malls around the country. The original outlet in Chinatown still oozes classic ambiance with its black wooden tables and chairs, occupied by old-timers talking politics and traffic. On a hot day, nothing beats their iced coffee (B15) and sweet and sour Chinese plum juice (B15). To soak up the drink, order some homemade kanom pang sangkhaya (B30).
Padsai Road, 02-221-0549, 02-622-4080. Open daily 5am-10pm.
Let’s Go Green
The birthplace of the dish that bears the restaurant’s name, Lord Chong Singapore, now in its 62nd year, remains a favorite sweet spot thanks to its tender green lord chong noodles and slices of jackfruit immersed in fragrant coconut milk and topped with shaved ice. In actuality, the dessert doesn’t hail from the Merlion Island. The dish took on the Singapore name because the shop was in front of the Singapore Theater (Chalermburi Theater), and the hipsters of that era nicknamed it Lord Chong Singapore. B12/glass.
680-682 Charoenkrung intersection, opposite Asia Bank, 02-221-5794. Open Fri-Wed 11am-10pm.
Five-Star Dining
Now on the same soi with swanky restaurants like Koi and Tamarind Café, the 60-year-old Thong Lee was previously on Sukhumvit 49 before moving to its present location on Sukhumvit Soi 20. The name roughly means “benefit together,” and this humble shophouse eatery lives up to its original pledge with oh-so cheap and homey Thai-Chinese fare (B70-100). Don’t miss the five “five-star” recipes: mee krob, Hainanese fried chicken, spicy mushroom salad, stir-fried pork liver with garlic and muu pad nam lieb (stir-fried minced pork with Chinese olives). Note that alcohol is not allowed.
64/3 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-258-1983. Open daily 9am-8pm. Closed on the third Sunday of each month.
Chinese Charm
Sor Bor Lor has been serving Taechew food for 53 years. Originally it was called Somboon Larb, but its Chinese regulars couldn’t pronounce the name, so the owner helped them out by shortening it to the initials S.B.L. In its early years, the restaurant only served up Taechew sukiyaki and khao mun kai. But now, it offers a long list of Taechew and Hong Kong-style food in a glamorous Chinese setting. Best-sellers include the braised abalone, shark fin soup and grilled snowfish with soy sauce. Prices start from B200. Free three-hour parking at Merry King Wang Burapha.
710-712 Mahachai Rd., Wang Burapha, 02-225-9079, 02-221-4749, www.sblrestaurant.com. Open daily 8am-10pm.
Old-School
Café
On Lok Yun was the Starbucks of your grandfather’s era. These days, this 70-year-old café is still packed with old-timers who drop by for the all-day breakfast over a cup of coffee (B15). No espresso, latte or mocha, let alone creamy blended drinks with unpronounceable names—only sweet Thai-style coffee. The menu is brief and to the point, but even so, you might have a hard time deciding between a fluffy ham & cheese sandwich (B35), sausages (B50), French toast (B30), buttered toast (B17), steamed bread with sangkhaya (B50) or poached eggs (B10). The happy staff also brings you complimentary cups of hot tea—a refreshing symbol of old-school generosity.
72 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-223-9621. Open daily 5:30am-5pm.
House of Chic(ken)
For a delicious plate of rice topped with chicken gravy, your grandparents might have gone to Poon Lert. Back in the good old days, the khao na kai was only 10 satang. Now it’s B25-30, but the taste still remains the same as the recipe has been passed down through three generations. Go for the chicken gravy with rice, noodles or even their sticky rice.
5 Yak Prapachai, Luang Rd., Yaowarat, 02-221-7105. Open Mon 10am-2pm, Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.
Uncle’s Recipe
Pad Thai Loong Pha makes only one thing—pad thai—and it’s been doing this to perfection for more than 40 years. Named after the owner, Uncle Prapha, the pad thai shop prepares its al dente chan noodles the traditional way, and cooks with charcoal instead of gas. Try the egg-wrapped pad thai sen chan mun goong (chan noodles with shrimp and shrimp fat, B60).
Pratu Phi, Mahachai Rd., 02-621-0082. Open daily 10pm-midnight.
The Name Says It All
Opened after World War II as a street stall by an Indian immigrant, the Thai Muslim restaurant Roti Mataba later moved to its present location, a small two-story shophouse on Phra Athit Road, in 1984. You’ll have to squeeze between and around tiny tables while rubbing elbows with other diners, as it’s hugely popular among backpackers and students from the nearby universities. There are seven types of mataba here: beef, chicken, fish, seafood, vegetarian, banana and mushroom (B25 each). Portions are small, but most people order several dishes at a time. Try their beef massaman and chicken green curry.
136 Phra Athit Rd., across from Phra Sumen Fort, 02-282-2119, 02-629-3353 ext 0. Open Tue-Sat 8am-10pm.
Fear Factor Food
For half a century, adventurous gourmands have been flocking to Samong Moo Thai Tham for their (in)famous Thai-style pig brain soup. Back when the owner Granny Sudjit was a young lady, the soup cost only B3, but inflation has taken its inevitable toll and now it’s B70. The Shell Chuan Chim-guaranteed hole-in-the-wall prepares its specialty kao lao-style with pig brain, entrails, deep-fried fish skin, deep-fried taro balls and Chinese sausages in peppery clear broth.
28/1 Prengphuthorn Rd., 02-221-7612. Open Mon-Sat 7am-2pm.
Runs in the Family
The appeal of this no-frills shophouse is its hospitality rather than the faultless cuisine. Named after owner Ko Yuan, Mitr Ko Yuan has been welcoming friends and families with big smiles and wallet-friendly, homestyle food for 60 years. The family-run restaurant whips up Thai fare with Hainanese twists. In particular, grandpa recommends his tom yum, stuffed omelet, beef steak and mee krob.
186 Dinsor Rd., 02-224-1194. Open daily 11am-2pm, 4-10pm.
Auntie Knows Best
At Chote Chitr, the affordable prices (B30-150) are a bonus to the main draw of lip-smacking authentic Thai cooking. Who’s that woman with the dog on her lap? That’s Auntie Tim, your cook, server, hostess and cashier. Admittedly, the hygiene is sometimes dubious, but if you can get past that, this five-table restaurant boasts hundreds of dishes, and the recipes are said to have been passed down for generations—since the era of Rama V—along with a selection of yaa dong (traditional herbal liquor). Don’t miss the legendary mee krob, yum thua phuu (wing bean salad) and yum hua plee (banana flower salad).
146 Phraeng Phutorn, Tanao Rd., 02-221-4082. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am-9pm
Khao Niew Godfather
At Kor Panich, the khao niew moon takes the spotlight. The 80-year-old institution is a household name for its sweet sticky rice. The glutinous rice is prepared with coconut milk, salt and coconut sugar, and is offered alongside ripe mango, durian in coconut milk or other toppings such as sangkhaya (thai custard) and pla hang (sweet dry minced fish). Plain khao niew is B110 per kilo, single portions with toppings are B30.
431-433 Tanao Rd., 02-221-3554. Open daily 7:30am-7:30pm.
Long Before Blue Elephant
For authentic royal Thai cuisine, head to Poj Spa Karn. The 82-year-old restaurant has undergone a few refurbishments over the years, so it doesn’t look its age. To some, it’s unofficially known as Cook Somdej (meaning “the prince’s chef”) since the former owner/chef used to cook in a palace for royalty. The luuk rok soup (B80), lemongrass omelet (B60), mee krob (B60) and three-color fried rice (B80) are features of most meals.
443 Tanao Rd., 02-222-2686. Open daily 10am-9pm. Closed on the third Saturday of each month.
Delicious Duck
Pong Lee has been going strong for 72 years. The spacious three-story restaurant has plenty of seating and offers private rooms on the third floor. Most of the regulars are Thai-Chinese families who have eaten here for decades. Here, hearty Chinese food comes with reasonable price tags and is served with a big smile. The famous ped ron (B180) is skillfully prepared by boiling a whole duck, then it is sun-dried and deep-fried until the skin is crispy and the meat falls off the bones. Other must-haves are deep-fried pork entrails (B100), drunken chicken (B100) and stir-fried fish maw (B100).
10/1 Ratchawithi Soi 9, BTS Victory Monument, 02-644-5037. Open daily 11am-9:30pm.
Ice Queen
If you prefer your ice cream light and refreshing, Natthaporn Ice Cream is a sure bet. The small, no-frills venue is known for its Thai-style frozen treats. Back then, they only offered coconut flavor, but now the 50-year-old parlor has a slew of homemade flavors, including favorites like chocolate, Thai iced tea and coffee. Mix and match the ice cream with your favorite toppings or pair it with homemade buttered cake. B15 per cup, B175-255 for takeaway pints.
94 Phraeng Phutorn R
d., 02-221-3954, 02-622-2455. Open Mon-Sat 9am-5pm.
Memorable Muu
Its slogan is “60 Years Same Taste,” and Udom Pochana has maintained the same khao muu daeng (rice with red BBQ pork) recipe for three generations. This family-run eatery is a favorite lunch spot for the government officers in the neighborhood. In addition to the tried-and-true khao muu daeng, Udom Pochana also whips up fresh spring rolls and Chinese-style beef stew. Every dish is B30.
78 Phraeng Phutorn Rd., 02-221-3042. Open Mon-Sat 7am-3:30pm.
photos by Watchara Srisirirungsimakul and Gregoire Glachant




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