Whether it’s pizza, pasta, gnocchi or espresso, we’ve all had Italian food in some form or another. But what is the identity of Italian food, anyway? Italy as a single nation, as we know it, goes back to 1861, but its cuisine is influenced by traditions that can be traced all the way back to the Roman times.

In an attempt to give an overview of this rich past, 11 of the best Bangkok-based Italian chefs have decided to dig up their country’s ancient recipes and bring them back to life.

"I spent a lot of time researching, sitting in front of a computer, reading about the history of our food and the ancient methods of preparation. Then inspiration struck," says Chef Frederik Farina of Spasso. "But it is not an easy task because you must rely both on research and on imagination. In the end, it’s up to me to try to cook these old recipes in an appealing way."

Images of Italian cuisine through time range from the gluttonous feasts of the Romans to the epicurean banquets of the Renaissance. But chefs agree that Italian food is at its best when prepared and served with simplicity, in true Italian spirit.

"There weren’t many cooking techniques back then, so simplicity is the most important ingredient," explains Chef Luca Cesarini of La Scala.

"I’m definitely going to use authentic Italian ingredients, simply cooked to achieve genuine flavors," adds Chef Danilo Aiassa of Biscotti.

The Splendor of Italian Cuisine Through the Centuries Festival, which runs Jun 2-10, is a great chance for discerning foodies to explore and sample historical Italian menus. All participating restaurants roll out a fixed-price set menu of B1,500++ that includes a glass of sparkling wine by Batasiolo and a cup of coffee by Lavazza. We spoke to some of the chefs to find out what to expect from the festival.

Chef Angelo Rottoli

Theme: The Epicurean Taste of the Medici Family of Florence (1400)

What to expect: The traditional tastes of the period inspired by the history of Catherine de Medici, who introduced the secrets of Italian cuisine to France when she married King Henry II. Simple-yet-tasty old-fashioned dishes with a modern presentation.

The highlight: Braised duck with orange and onion soup.

■ Beccofino – 146 Thonglor Soi 4, 02-392-1881. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.

Chef Danilo Aiassa

Theme: The Cuisine of the Royal Family of Italy

What to expect: Risotto, beef and frog leg: all the favorites of the royal family of Savoy. Simple food, intense taste and attractive presentation.

The highlight: Risotto alla Bergese, the recipe for which was developed by Chef Bergese, the last chef for the royal family before the republic. The risotto is served with toasted mashed onions and a veal stock reduction.

■ Biscotti — Four Seasons Hotel, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-251-6127. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.

Chef Paolo Collavini

Theme: The Ancient Cuisine of Venice

What to expect: Simple rustic dishes whipped up from imported ingredients like salted dry codfish, buckwheat spaghetti, radicchio and anchovies.

The highlight: Marinated sweet and sour sole fillets, codfish mousse and cornmeal tart with grappa sauce.

■ Il Cielo — The Dusit Thani, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm

Chef Luca Cesarini

Theme: The Cuisine of the Powerful Borromeo Family in Milan (1400)

What to expect: Up to 22 small but rich Milanese dishes prepared with imported cheese, flour, sausages and salami. Recipes are taken from regions around Milan in the 1400s, according to traditional cooking techniques such as "carpione" (a marinade made by vinegar and vegetables that is used to preserve cooked fish). The presentation has been refined to modern standards, though.

The highlight: Poached sliced veal tongue with salsa verde, pumpkin gnocchi with creamy porcini mushroom sauce, and roasted river trout fillet with gorgonzola cheese fondue.

■ La Scala — The Sukhothai, 13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888 ext. 5736. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

Chef Gaetano Palumbo

Theme: The Great Revival of the Renaissance Cuisine

What to expect: Refined dishes that used to be made by Renaissance noble families with red meat and dairy products as the main ingredients.

The highlight: Meat tortellini in Capon broth, maccheroni with pigeon ragout, citrus braised veal tongue and apple fritters with chestnuts polenta.

■ Rossini’s — Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8888. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

Chef Frederik Farina

Theme: Famous Chefs who Defined Italian Taste

What to expect: A selection of old-time Italian favorites from the past centuries, and some original recipes from major chefs of the past such as Apicius, of ancient Roman times, Pelligrino Artusi (late 1800s) or from moderns Gualtiero Marchesi and Angelo Paracucchi.

The highlight: Sardines Scapece, a salad made with marinated sardines the way King Frederik II liked it when he was in Italy.

■ Spasso — Grande Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6:30-11pm. ■

MORE CHEFS, MORE CENTURIES...

CHEF MARCO CAMMARATA

What: The Bourbon Kings’ Cuisine, Mediterranean Flavors

Where: Belguardo, G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9380-1. Open daily 11:30am-10am.

CHEF MASSIMO GULLOTTA

What: Sicilian Cuisine of the Malavoglia Famaily (1800)

Where: Fallabella, 100 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-252-5131. Open daily 6pm-midnight.

CHEF GIANNI FAVRO

What: The Cuisine of Leonardo Da Vinci

Where: Gianni Ristorante, 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-2521619. Open daily noon-2pm, 6-10pm.

CHEF DAVIDE SPIGHI

What: The Opulent Cuisine of the Renaissance Popes

Where: La Grotta, Baan Silom, Silom Soi 19, 02-266-5334. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm.

CHEF ANTONIO FACCHINETTI

What: Magnificent Banquets of Gonzaga Princes’ of Mantua (1600)

Where: La Villa, 131 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-712-9991. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm.

What’s Cooking?

If you prefer a DIY Italian dinner and a chance to win a trip to Italy, drop by From Italy with Love, Jun 13–Jul 3, a three-week promotion that brings a wide range of Italian produce and wines to CentralWorld Food Hall and 20 outlets of Tops supermarket.

On Jun 29, a professional ham carver from Alcisa, a ham and sausage exporter in Bologna, Italy, is showcasing the art of Parma ham carving at Westin Grande Sukhumvit (259 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-207-8000). There is also the Alcisa Italian Cold Platter Challenge, in which the chefs compete to create the most innovative platter of coldcut meat. Then on Jun 30, Alcisa turns Tops into its showcase, displaying a range of its imported products from salami to its famous gigante cooked ham for foodies to taste.