The ins and outs of Bangkok’s gay saunas

Let’s face it: one of the great things about being gay is that we have choices. Gay-friendly saunas are almost as common as 7-Elevens in the greater Bangkok area. We counted a whopping 32—that’s enough to allow you the luxury of visiting a different sauna every night of the week for over a month without ever sweating on the same floor twice. Here are six of the city’s most popular venues. Do us a favor, though: be safe, use condoms.

39 Underground Theme

Phat: In terms of décor and feel this is the most unique sauna we visited. 39 Underground has departed from the luxurious and relatively vanilla design trend set by venues like Babylon and Chakran in favor of an edgier and more spartan set design. Steam rooms and dry sauna areas are clean and well designed.

Flat: Be sure to duck your head as you make your way up and down the staircase at this four stories complex. The overhang between floors is menacingly low. Can you imagine anything more embarrassing than regaining consciousness at the bottom of a staircase with your towel hiked up over your head?

The Skinny: All that graffiti and exposed brick might tempt you to don your chaps and take a walk on the wild side, but dress codes (and undress codes) are strictly enforced. Anyway, steam causes leather to mildew.

■ 1511/39 Phaholyothin Rd., Soi Phaholyothin Theater (close to the BTS Saphan Kwai inside a small soi with a Guardian Drugstore on the corner), 02-279-1511. Open daily 3pm-1am. www.thailandout.com/39. B139, B99 if you’re under 28 years of age.

Babylon M

Phat: Babylon is world famous and rightfully so. This is probably one of the most luxurious, well-run and smartly conceived sauna complexes in the world. With the exception of Chakran, it is safe to say that Babylon is in a completely different league from its competitors. We give special note to Babylon’s excellent on-site restaurant which features high quality live entertainment on Sat and Sun.

Flat: Babylon is definitely the place to see and be seen for foreigners and locals alike. But are you 100 percent sure you want to be seen? Everybody here tends to know everybody.

The Skinny: Our pick for the best sauna in Bangkok.

■ Soi Nantha (off Sathorn Soi 1), Sathorn Road, 02-679-7985. Open Sun-Thu noon-11:30pm, Fri-Sat noon-1am. www.babylonbangkok.com. B220 Mon-Fri, B250 Sat-Sun and holidays.

Chakran

Phat: Chakran is the only sauna listed here which matches or possibly surpasses Babylon in terms of design and luxury. A mammoth, multi-level Moorish courtyard serves as a visually stunning focal point for this very up market complex. Chakran is one of the few local saunas with a swimming pool, restaurant, an outdoor
café and a mini-theater.

Flat: Chakran is smaller and attracts a far less diverse clientele than Babylon, where foreigners and the men who love them might be more at home. And was that sticky rice I smelled cooking in the steam room?

The Skinny: Stunningly beautiful, peaceful, up market, and decidedly sticky.

■ 32 Soi Ari 4, Phaholyothin Rd., 02-279-1359. Open daily 3-11pm. www.utopia-asia.com/chakran. B250 Fri-Sun, B230 Mon-Thu.

GSM M

Phat: The rooftop garden area is enormous and provides views of the Chao Praya River and of Chinatown below. Someone on the design staff had the foresight to install viewing areas that overlook the main indoor and outdoor shower areas. (Calling all voyeurs!) The clientele is a healthy mix of young and old, thin and chubby, and Thai and farang. The indoor areas spread between two floors seem to go on forever.

Flat: We like this sauna for its easy atmosphere and friendly staff. But beware the door to the steam room on the second level near the restaurant. It closes very fast and will tear the skin right off your fingers if you don’t get them out of the way in time!

The Skinny: The only six packs you’re likely to find in this place will be sitting in the refrigerator. Fed up with tyranny of the young and the beautiful? Head over to GSM and catch yourself a bear. Woof!

■ 7/F, Suapa Plaza, Charoen Krung Road (Rachawong Road Intersection, near Grand China Princess Hotel), 08-5126-9953. www.gsmsauna.com. Open Mon-Thu, 4pm-midnight, Fri-Sun 1pm-midnight. B150.

Sauna Mania Theme

Phat: The rooftop areas are downright lovely, especially at night. While not quite in the league of Babylon and Chakran, Sauna Mania is very upscale and well maintained. Every night carries a different theme. Anyone care to join us next Wednesday for Sumo Night?

Flat: The staff at the bar was nothing short of surly during our visit. The maze area is one of the most interesting in town, but you might regret it if you go barefoot.

The Skinny: Don’t forget your flip-flops, boys!

■ Soi Pipat 2, Convent Road, 01-817-4073. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 3pm-6am, Sun 3pm-midnight. B120 baht, B100 baht Mon-Tue.

Farose II

Phat: Farose II is situated in a large suburban style house with a large garden area, a cavernous indoor cruising area and an outdoor swimming pool. This is the only venue on our list that is actually located in a freestanding house, and we like the club-like feel of the place.

Flat: Great for Ramkamhaengers, otherwise this is a bit off the beaten track, especially if you don’t have a car.

The Skinny: Think big, sweaty suburban house party; this counterpart to the original Farose Sauna in Saphan Kwai is getting good buzz.

■ Ramkamhaeng, Soi 21, Soi Nualsri 2, 02-618-4505, 02-618-4445. Open daily 4pm-6am. B100. www.thailandout. com/farose.