Check-in takes place in a private, air-conditioned lounge over a cup of espresso. After that it’s a short ride by golf cart to a private pier and on to the resort in an all-white speedboat. At the dock you are welcomed by at least 10 smartly dressed members of management and staff. Next it’s another golf cart ride through manicured gardens to your luxurious pool villa. After the tour (how to use the coffee machine, where the switch for the pool jets is, etc.), you are presented with a dozen soaps made with extra virgin olive oil to select from. In a couple of hours, afternoon tea will be delivered to your room, with a choice of imported teas accompanied by a sampling of artfully created finger foods….

Welcome to the new Koh Samet.

More to Love?

If you haven’t visited the small island off the coast of Rayong in a while, you might be in for a shock (several shocks, actually—chief among them “sticker shock”). All the things that have made Samet so popular among Bangkokians—powdery white sand, clear water, low rainfall and close proximity to the Capital—are still there, but it’s starting to look a lot more like Samui or Phuket.

Call us naïve, but Samet always felt like it would remain the same—basic, local—while Samui and Phuket went the Conde Nast route—no doubt in part due to its official status as a “protected” national park. There was even talk fairly recently of halting further development on the island and possibly closing down resorts that were operating illegally. (Predictably, authorities relented in the face of opposition from resort owners.) But instead of rickety huts and intermittent electricity, Samet now boasts spas, swimming pools, 7-Eleven, ATMs, 24-hour-electricity, satellite TV, buffet breakfasts, internet cafes, traffic jams and several resorts where you can drop B10,000 per night on a room (and one as much as B80,000).

Not Just For Backpackers

With rates averaging in the thousands of baht, the reality is far different from Samet’s long-held reputation as a playground solely for students and backpackers. Budget accommodation still exists, but gone are the days when you could just show up on the island Friday evening without a reservation and still have a choice of huts to crash in for B100-400. Now “budget” means at least B500-1,000, and if you’re going on a weekend, especially, you’d better book in advance.

At the forefront of this up-market trend is the Samed Resorts Group, which operates several resorts on the island, including Le Vimarn Cottages & Spa and Ao Prao Resort on Ao Prao, Sai Kaew Beach Resort on Ao Sai Kaew (“White Sand Beach”) and, its crown jewel, Paradee Resort & Spa.

The Pinnacle: Paradee

Paradee, which celebrated its official grand opening last month, is ideally located on the “quiet” southern end of Samet, the only resort on Ao Kiew, which is blissfully free of banana boats, speedboats and jetskis. Designed to compete with top properties in Phuket, Samui and Hua Hin, there are only 40 units in the all-villa resort, 30 of which come with private terrace, outdoor bath and plunge pool.

Nearly every villa has at least a partial view of the sea, and all 40 are literally only a few steps away from the beach. The luxurious interiors are decorated in cheery yellow and red tones with dark teakwood furniture and accents; amenities include the above-mentioned choice of Bath & Bloom soaps and afternoon tea, free internet, flatscreen TV, and DVD player. The service is outstanding (there’s that welcoming committee, for example—and even the gardeners wai guests), with more than four staff for every guest. Paradee also boasts an open-air restaurant, spa, library, pool, fitness room, meeting room and the just-completed Sunset Bar, arguably the best place on the island to enjoy a signature chocolate or chili moon martini (B450).

If that seems like an awful lot to spend on one drink when you could buy a few buckets of Sang Som-Red Bull-Sprite on Ao Phai or Ao Hin Khok, you’re right. But tourists who can afford B15,000-B80,000 (for the Paradee Suite during high season), which doesn’t include the “compulsory” speedboat transfer of B6,000 (roundtrip), won’t have a problem shelling out B450 for a drink or B400 for a plate of fried rice. (And note that you won’t find a mini-mart or gai yang vendor within walking distance.)

(More) Affordable Luxury

For the rest of us, Ao Prao provides three options, plus there is a lot more going on in terms of watersports (and people), as well as dining and drinking choices, compared with Ao Kiew. Both Le Vimarn and Ao Prao Resort are renovating their rooms, with rates starting at B9,700 for Le Vimarn and B5,900 for Ao Prao (through Jan 10). More “hip” but not quite as luxe is Lima Coco starting at B3,000 baht (Dec 24-Jan 7), which is between the two Samed Resorts properties.

Even closer to the “nightlife” action is Sai Kaew Beach Resort, which has a pool as well as a huge grassy area leading down to the beach, where there is an Italian restaurant and beachfront bar. Rooms start at B4,200, but they’re a bit depressing; better are the cottages, which are B5,800-6,600 (through Jan 10).

(More) Affordable

For a more “local” feel, try Ao Noi Na on the northern end of Koh Samet. The beach is quite short, especially during high tide, and the lack of resorts here means that garbage from fishing boats washing ashore doesn’t get picked up as quickly as on busier beaches, but prices are much lower, leaving you plenty left over for cocktail buckets. Recently remodeled in contemporary style, Samed Hut has apartment-style rooms around a beachfront swimming pool and patio for around B4,000 (through Jan 10). Another option is Samet Cliff Resort, which has hillside bungalows with ocean views just across the street from the beach starting at B1,500 per night.