Hungry weekenders hit the century-old market.

Traffic is busy on any weekend on the road to Sam Chuk in Suphan Buri where lies Talad Sam Chuk, the so-called 100-Year-Old Market (next to Sam Chuk distict office, Sam Chuk, Muang, Suphan Buri). The community by the Suphan Buri River used to be a trading hub for the area. But when river-faring merchants became obsolete, it turned into a little foodie haven, lost in time, perfectly preserved for those who love nostalgia, knick knacks and, of course, food. The two-story shophouses bear witness to the past riches of Suphan Buri while today’s inhabitants are friendly and welcoming—and they encourage you to taste everything before you buy, so a simple shopping expedition can soon turn into a light meal! The large market opens every day from as early as 5am and closes before dark. But weekends are when it gets really crowded, as people from Bangkok and other provinces pay the market a visit. There are also more stalls to visit, which means hundreds of different dishes lying in every corner of the market. Here are a few you can’t miss.

Mae Porn Neam Si Krong Muu Sod (08-6593-7299, 08-6798-9909) sells Chinese sweets, in front of a salon, together with homemade naem si krong muu sod (sour Isaan sausage). While the sweets in colorful plastic bottles can be seen at many shops around the area, her pork rib naem is exceptional—very peppery, herbal and sour.

Khun Aor Kanom Kaiplaa Boran (035-581-580, 08-5939-6555) tends her stall in Soi 1 only on weekends. Kanom kaiplaa is a rare Thai sweet, and that’s why Khun Aor has been on many TV shows for her special treat. It owes its name to its fish-egg-like appearance, but this sweet is made from either sugar palm fruit or taro. It’s best eaten with shredded coconut. B20 per box of delicious sweetness.

Raan Café Tarue Song (at the entrance of the market) offers more than old-style coffee and tea. The long-running eatery is all dusty and rusty with chairs, tables and photos that hark from your grandparents’ days, but it’s always busy with shoppers hungry for a quick and cheap yet tasty bowl of noodles or a few side dishes of khao kaeng.

Ped Yang Ja Cherd (in front of Raan Café Tarue Song) opened in 1975, hence the sign saying, “The first in Sam Chuk.” There are many copycats, but if you want the original, look for this old grandma. She is busy all day chopping her crispy-skinned grilled duck for her customers. Get in line! B250 per duck.  

Rang Sri Roj (at the far end, next to the bridge) sells kuay tiew bok (spicy noodle salad) and khao hor bai bua (fried rice wrapped in lotus leaf), which is the highlight. It comes with an assortment of tender fried pork with salted egg, Chinese sausage, dry shrimps and Chinese mushrooms. The rice is also flavorful and fragrant. B25 a dish.

Kanom Kai Sood Boran (Soi 2, 08-6514-8033) are baked fresh and hot in front of your eyes. What makes it our favorite is that the kanom kai here are soft and not too sweet. B20 a box. 

Baan Mae Noi (Soi 2, 08-5056-1437) sells another rare Thai dessert called kanom dok jok. It tastes pretty much like thong muan but it is in the shape of a flower. They put lots of sesame on the crispy desserts to make it even more addictive.

Kanom Hed Cone (08-6669-9828, 08-5973-9784) does look like a mushroom but is in fact a sweet made from eggs and sugar. Nothing quite compares with letting this dessert gradually melt in your mouth. 

Lim Hua Heng (Soi 3), in a classic Chinese décor, serves just-as-classic Chinese dishes. The tasty egg noodles with grilled duck come with steaming-hot peppery soup. Make sure you also order some dim sum here—only B20 a dish. Our favorites: the 100-year-old-egg dumplings. n