Even if Lampang is just a 45-minute drive via the superhighway from the tourist hub that is Chiang Mai, it offers a totally different vibe and feel. Sitting in the north of Thailand, Lampang’s simple beauty lies in its purity and historic culture.

The best way to surf the small town is on foot. Along the road you can see preserved Lanna architecture that incorporates Burmese influences and pre-dates even the buildings of Chiang Mai. You can easily walk from Phrakaeo Don Tao Burmese Temple (Thama-O Rd., Muang) to the most famous khao soi shop in town—the 30-year-old Khao Soi Boon Yuen (Wang Kong Rd., 054-312-462). From there, hoof it to Ratsadaphisek Bridge and continue along the Wang River to the Watch Tower (Boonyawet Rd.) in the heart of the town. Skyscrapers and hip hotels are nowhere to be seen and when we asked around for a coffee shop, everyone pointed to the one and only café in the area—Ounlamai (350/2 Baan Chiang Rai Rd., Muang, 054-310-628), a nice refreshing place to rest your feet.

This town is very quiet, even on weekends, and traffic is non-existent compared to Bangkok. You can enjoy a serene walk without pollution. But, like Chiang Mai, the province gets burning hot in the midday, so choose your walk either in the early morning or in the evening.

For lazy bees, colorfully adorned horse carts are available to take you on a tour around the town, with a few stops if you negotiate. A cowboy-looking driver charges B200 for a big-round tour and B150 for a small one. And it’s so lovely every time a horse passes one of their peers, as they will cry out to greet each other. Horse cart stops are at Pra Dua Temple (on the corner of Ratchabut and Boonyawet Rds.) and the train station (Prasan Mitree Rd., 054-217-024).

If you want something lively and entertaining, you shouldn’t miss the Saturday Walking Street on Talaad Kao Road. It starts after dusk around 6:30pm, so you can enjoy the sunset at Ratsadapisek Bridge before things get going. This weekend market is like a meeting of the locals; along the way you can see people greeting each other—and you suddenly feel like an outsider at a class reunion. Don’t eat anything beforehand because there is so much delicious local food, and you don’t want to miss out on the khao soi, khao yum, barbequed mushroom and miang kaam. Prices for food are very cheap, too—around B10-30 per dish. Northern products are also for sale, and if you are planning to redecorate your home in the Lanna style, you can be easily spend your money like crazy here.

The Thai Elephant Conservation Center (Lampang-Chiang Mai Highway, Amphur Hang Chat, www.changthai.com. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm) is a signature of Lampang and if you can find a car, you absolutely should go there. There, they have elephant shows daily at 10am, 11am and 11:30am, but this is nothing like a circus. The elephants are trained to show practical things like pulling logs, with their well being in mind. For example, they are not trained to stand on their back legs because that position hurts them. The lovely elephants also play music and paint. You can ride on the elephant’s back to the nearby surrounding areas or visit the hospital. If you are really in love with the elephants, mahout courses are also available. A one-day course is B3,500. n