Try something different and hit up the vibrant capital of the Philippines. By Winnie Yeung

Admit it—Manila has never been high on the list of Asian destinations to visit. But with more money pouring into the city, there’s suddenly an abundance of things to see and do. Here are some of our top finds.

Eat till you Burst

Filipino Food
With a new generation of overseas-trained chefs returning to their homeland, the restaurant scene in Manila is booming. Rolando Laudico is a young chef hoping to bring Philippine cuisine into the international arena with his restaurant, Bistro Filipino (Net Two Building, 3rd Avenue, The Fort, 856-0634). Take the prawn tamarind bisque, for example (1,125PHP). Many think bisque is a western dish, but actually, it’s a modern take on “sinigang,” the Philippines’ version of tom yum soup. Made with seafood, coconut milk and tamarind fruit, the broth is traditionally served in a big bowl during a family meal. But Chef Laudico serves it in a martini glass—the sinigang is made into a jelly and topped with hot lemongrass and coconut foam. Stir up the jelly and foam to get the perfect flavor and texture.

Japanese Eats
You might not know it, but Japan imports a lot of fish from the Philippines. This means affordable and deliciously fresh sashimi abounds in the capital city. John and Yoko (2/F, Greenbelt 5, 729-8698) is a hugely popular contemporary Japanese eatery in the high-end mall Greenbelt. We recommend the huge, delicious platter called “We Found Nemo,” (4,798PHP) which has generous portions of four types of sashimi and three types of creative sushi rolls.

Vintage Beers
The fresher the beer, the better, right? Curious as it may sound, that’s not the case in Manila where “vintage beer” is readily available. You probably haven’t heard of it before, because it’s not exactly cost-effective—it’s brewed like normal beer before going through a second fermentation process in hardened bottles, stoppered with Champagne corks. According to Denny Wang, who imports “vintage beer” into the Philippines with his Yats Wine Cellar (3003C East Tower, Philippines Stock Exchange Center, Ortigas, 633-1566, www.yatswinecellars.com), five years of fermentation is needed for a beer to achieve true complexity of taste. We tried the 2003 Maudite from Canada (9,632PHP)—we wouldn’t say it was particularly complex, but it certainly has a better aftertaste than “fresh” beer and a much higher alcohol content. We like it, but at B7,140 a pop, we probably wouldn’t wash it down like Heineken.

Art and Culture

A must-do in Manila is joining a historical tour with Carlos Celdran. He runs a morning tour around Intramuros, the walled city built 400 years ago during the Spanish occupation. Unfortunately, there’s little left inside those walls due to the bombing during World War II. But the real highlight is Celdran’s personalized (and highly animated) tour. For just 4,493PHP (two hours, book at celdrantours.blogspot.com), you can enjoy his one-man show as he colorfully tells the country’s 400-year history with props and costumes. The San Agustin Church—the only unharmed structure remaining in the walled city—is also not to be missed. At first glance, it looks like a European-style House of God. But look closer: all the “carvings” on the ceiling are actually just drawings, cleverly using shading to give the impression of three-dimensional sculptures. 

Meanwhile, Pasay City, despite being an area rife with squatters and poorly designed buildings, is home to a vibrant art and design compound. Built as an estate for expats back in the 1950s, the compound has more than a dozen retro American-style bungalows shaded by leafy trees. Albert Avellana opened the Avellana Art Gallery (House A-19, 2680 F.B. Harrison St., 833-8357) in one of these houses.

Shopping

With money pouring into the capital, it’s no surprise that high-end malls like Greenbelt at Makati (Ayala Center, Makati City 1224, 817-5015) have sprung up. It’s as high-class and stylish as one can get—even by Bangkok standards. The mall is a 1.3-million-square-foot retail complex, with shops ranging from the biggest brands to inexpensive local labels. One shop we loved was Religioso (2/F, Greenbelt 5, 729-9061), a local fashion brand that has avant-garde but highly wearable dresses. A sci-fi-inspired dress is only 16,050PHP.

Spas

Who doesn’t love a bargain spa when they go on holiday? Our favorite in Manila was the Sanctuario Spa (1829 Jorge Bocobo St., 450-1127), which is located in a bungalow in the Bohemian area of Malate. For just 11,139PHP, you get the two-hour Banahaw Mystique, a package of traditional Filipino healing rituals. It starts off with a herbal steam, then an Albularyo seven-herbs bath, followed by a Bentosa cupping before ending with a strong Hilot massage. The bungalow itself might be too local for lovers of luxury, but it’s certainly relaxing.

Alternatively, try out the Chi Spa at Edsa Shangri-la (1 Garden Way, Ortigas Centre, 633-8888). It’s pure indulgence. We tried their exclusive two-hour Himalayan Tsangpo Ritual (36,031PHP). The treatment is in a luxury spa suite and starts with a Tethys sea salt scrub to detoxify the body. Next a heated Himalayan red mountain mud pack to rejuvenate your skin. A head and scalp massage completes the treatment. With the treatment and the fab ginger tea they serve, we’d say it’s a good soul-cleansing routine—especially after the excesses of the holiday.