This winter, float your krathong or go for a dreamy stroll among the ruins. By Gregoire Glachant.

Sukhothai will enjoy a brief surge of popularity for its Loy Krathong ceremonies but it’s otherwise quiet compared to Thai favorites like Chiang Mai and Phuket or other UNESCO World Heritage sites like Cambodia’s overcrowded Angkor Wat or Laos’ increasingly popular Luang Prabang. It’s unfortunate for Sukhothai, fortunate for you. This place has some of the most elegant architecture in the region, all in a manicured park that makes for great walks—and no busloads of tourists. Here’s a quick guide to show you just how easy and relaxing it is to take the weekend off in the ancient capital.

What is this place?

What did they teach you in school? “This Muang Sukhothai is good. In the water, there are fish. In the fields, there is rice.” The kingdom of Sukhothai, which lasted two centuries after King Intradit overthrew the Khmer in the mid-13th century, was reputed to be heaven on earth (the name Sukhothai means “Dawn of Happiness”). Sukhothai is considered to be Thailand’s golden age, producing the Kingdom’s most superior art and architecture. Under it’s third ruler, King Ramkamhaeng, Thailand grew to include much of present-day Thailand and the current Thai alphabet was devised.

Lay of the Land

First, grab the very well made TAT Map (TAT Offi ce, 3/F, Sukhothai City Hall, Nikornkaset Rd., 055-647-225/6). Most of Sukhothai is contained within a square perimeter, a bit like Chiang Mai. Take (very) long walks or rent a bicycle for B40/day at the King Ramkamhaeng Memorial. Note that you can’t stay in the historic park so you’ll have to hole up in town or in the secluded and elegant Sukhothai Heritage Resort.

Most people start their trip with the Ramkamhaeng National Museum. Its collection rivals anything you’ll fi nd in Bangkok, in particular a stunning bronze walking Buddha, and it will educate you on everything you’re about to see. From here, make your way to Wat Mahathat. The monastery’s highlight is the lotus-shaped Phum Kao Bin, encircled by 198 minor stupas. This is also where the Phra Attahort, a standing Buddha, can be found. Armed with your map, you’re then free to explore the rest of the park from this central location.

Si Satchanalai Historical Park

If you can’t get enough of the scores of temples and stupas in and around Sukhothai, head to Si Satchanalai Historical Park for over 100 additional structures. Located 52km north of Sukhothai, it offers further architectural treasures set amid rolling hills. Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat is the most impressive temple there, with its imposing Buddhas, walking and sitting, and its large Ayutthaya-style stupa.

If you’re staying in downtown Sukhothai, just grab a songtaew or tuk-tuk to reach the historic park. Prices vary depending on what language you speak, but should be around B10/person one-way. To get to Si Satchanalai, it’s about B50/person.

Eating

If all these temples get you hungry, tuck into some famous Sukhothai noodles. They stand out from your usual keayw tiew for their use of local beans and peanuts. They’re simply delicious! Some of the best places to get your fi x are Chae Hair (near PTT gas station, 6/10 Moo 12, Charotwithitong Rd., 055-611-901. Open daily 8am-4pm) and Mai Klang Krung (near Tha Chumpon Temple, 139 Charotwithitong Rd., 055-621-882. Open daily 8:30am-3pm).

Essentials

Getting There

By car From Bangkok, take Highway 1 then Highway 32 north to Nakhon Sawan. Highway 32 becomes Highway 1 again, follow all the way to Kamphaeng Phet, then take Highway 101 to Sukhothai. 427km.
By air Bangkok Airways fl ies out twice a day between
Bangkok and Sukhothai’s cute little airport. Through Nov 30, return tickets are only B5,040 but must be used within 14 days of purchase. Call 1771 or visit www.bangkokair.com.
By bus Air-conditioned buses depart from Bangkok Bus Terminal (Mochit) on Kamphaeng Phet II Rd. for Sukhothai (7-hour journey). For more information, call 02-936-2852/66 or visit www.transport.co.th.

Where to Stay

Downtown, there’s plenty of cheap housing for backpackers. JJ Guesthouse (122/1501 Maeramphan Rd., 055-620-095. www.jj-guesthouse.com) is a favorite for its bakery, cheap, clean bungalows and friendly service. Rooms start from B350.

The Ruean Thai Hotel Sukhothai (181/20 Soi Pracharuammit Jarodwithithong Rd., 055-612-444. www.rueanthaihotel.com) offers more comfort but retains a charming traditional wooden architecture. From B1,200 for a standard room.