Whatever your leanings, Chiang Mai is sure to hit the spot. Text and photos by Nuttaporn Srisirirungsimakul.

Next month, once the rain stops pouring and the weather becomes relatively pleasant, Bangkokians will start their annual exodus up north for the opportunity to relish our oh-so brief winter. And with the right mix of tradition and modernity, adventure, culture and nature it’s no surprise that Chiang Mai always tops the list when it comes time to choose the perfect winter getaway. But before you roll your eyes and comment “been there done that,” we urge you to take a look at our top picks for everyone from coffee connoisseurs to culture vultures, adrenaline junkies to shopaholics and go on a trip off the standard tourist trail.

Adrenaline Adventures

For thrill seekers who find city life mundane, head out of town for more uplifting activities. An hour southeast of Chiang Mai, in Mae Kompong Village, you can embrace your inner monkey with the Flight of the Gibbon (089-970-5551. www.treetopasia.com). For B2,600, you’ll get the chance to swing through the trees on a zip wire, as you soak up the pure rainforest air and pay a visit to the Kompong Waterfall. The same company also offers a two-day-one-night rock climbing and water rafting package (B6,400), which includes a homestay in the peaceful village. That price includes lunch and transfers to and from your hotel.

Chiang Mai Adventure (3/F, D Town Inn, Thunghotel Rd., 053-304-556/7, 089-952-1000) can also hook you up with various adrenaline-pumping activities from whitewater rafting to trekking and ATV rides. Prices start from B1,400 for a day trip to B5,000 for a three-day-two-night expedition, which also gets you an overnight stay in a hilltribe village.

If you really want to take your trip up a notch then why not indulge in some sightseeing from the air? Hop on a microlight (B1,900/15 mins, B2,900/30mins) and fly with an experienced pilot at Chiang Mai Sky Adventure (143 Moo 6, Cherngdoi, Doi Saket, 053-868-460, 081-993-6861. www.skyadventures.info) or, for those with less need for speed and more cash, a one-hour hot air balloon ride (B9,800) is also available during November to March, weather permitting.

Café Culture

Pay a visit to Nimmandhaemin Road—where 94 Coffee, Starbucks, Black Canyon and Doi Chaang are neighbors—and it’s clear that Chiang Mai is serious about its coffee. With a string of chic cafes tucked in almost every nook and cranny, you’ll need at least a week to truly explore this capital of caffeine.

When in Chiang Mai get out of the habit of popping into Starbucks as you’ll only find expats and tourists there. Instead, Wawee is the go-to place for a lazy and local cup of coffee. The beans here come from farms in Doi Chang, Doi Chiang Dao and Doi Inthanon. The coffee chain now has 17 outlets spread across the city, but the original branch on Nimmandhaemin Soi 9 (053-221-760. Open daily 7am-10pm. www.wawee.co.th) remains the most popular with ample people-watching opportunities, comfy couches and a shady outdoor lawn.
But if you prefer to linger and finish that novel you bought months ago, Happy Hut (between Nimmandhemin Soi 9 and 10, 053-895-556. Open daily 8am-10pm) is a better choice. Intimate and affordable, a cup of coffee at this orange hut sets you back B30-65. Just like the friendly service, wifi is free of charge.

Decked with weather-worn furniture and kitschy collectibles,
Chiang Mai Coffee (Chang Klan Rd., next to Duangkamol Bookstore, 053-206-237. Open daily 9am-9pm) serves coffee in casual retro charm. You can also check out its riverside outlet at Regina Guesthouse (see Where to Stay).

(53 Charoenraj Rd., Wat Gate, 053-303-113. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.vjoteahouse.com), where over 60 types of chaa are on offer. The name means pink town, and this eye-catching teahouse matches up to its kitschy name. Inside you’ll find feminine flowing drapery, hand-painted walls and flowery pillows. You can also head outside and indulge in the river views. An aromatic pot of Love tea and a sinful blueberry cheesecake (B120) make a great first date nibble. Housed in a well-preserved, century-old colonial house, Siam Celadon Tea House (158 Thapae Rd., 053-234-518/9. Open daily 9:30am-6pm. www.siamceladon.com) serves high tea along with light international fare. It’s a bit touristy, but worth a visit just for the impressive architecture.

OK, the doctors told you to steer clear of both these caffeine-laden poisons so stick to some creamy (non-Chinese) milk instead. Mon Nom Sod (Nimmandhaemin Rd., 053-214-410) is great for those feeling homesick but similar to its original Bangkok branch, service can be spotty and inattentive. (Kanklongchonlapratan Rd., 053-811-680. Open daily 11am-9pm) instead. This establishment was a location in rom-com blockbuster Pid Term Yai Hua Jai Waa Woon, which just confirms its popularity. Toasts (B15) here are a tad pricey, considering they are nothing special, but you are allowed to linger indefinitely and ogle the cute crowd.

Sweet Spots

Of course, nothing goes better with a cup of coffee than a sweet piece of pie. Fortunately Chiang Mai is equally blessed with little bakeries that can satisfy the sweet toothed among you.

Thanks to the power of word of mouth (and the internet), Love At First Bite (28 Chiang Mai-Lamphun Soi 1, 053-242-731. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-6pm. www.loveatfirstbite-cm.com) attracts hordes of well-heeled Bangkokians in pursuit of its renowned, if pricey, baked goods. Blueberry cheesecake, banana cream pie, chocolate town cake and macadamia cookies are among the best sellers.
Escape the hype and hyper-inflated prices while satisfying your sweet tooth at Cake Cottage (60 Sirimangkalajarn Soi 13. Open daily 10am-6pm), where chunky slices of lemon tart and blueberry cheese pie hit all the right buttons.

Cool things down with frozen delights at iBerry Garden (Nimmandhaemin Soi 17, 053-895-181. Open daily 10:30am-10pm. www.iberryhomemade.com). A popular hangout for Chiang Mai youngsters, this playful ice cream parlor is kitted out in mismatched furniture pieces and eclectic artworks from a flying Mickey Mouse model to a smiley Mao Zedong statue. Thanks to a yellow, big-nosed sculpture, it’s not hard to guess that stand-up comedian Udom “Nose” Taepanich is the creative mind behind it all.

Boutique Browsing

If you want to take a little bit of Lanna back with you but want a souvenir that is a touch more original than sai aua and namprik num then go for some homegrown creativity. In addition to its own local talent, Chiang Mai is a magnet for artists from across the country who have adopted the city as their second home.

The best places to exercise your bargaining skills are on the two weekend walking streets. On Saturday, from 4pm onwards, food hawkers and vendors set up their booths along the Wualai Walking Street on Wualai Road. More popular is the Sunday Walking Street, which stretches between Ratchadamnoen Road and Prapokklao Road and runs from 3pm till midnight. Both sell a bit of everything: scarves, earrings, paintings and clothes.

(Nimmandhaemin Soi 1, 053-895-138. Open daily 10:30am-6pm. www.meojaidee.com) will wow you with its kitschy fragrant candles painstakingly handcrafted into many different shapes from a simple stick to a yummy-looking watermelon. If it’s available, get yourself a bottle or two of Maa Jai Dum. Literally translated as “black-hearted dog,” the Chiang Mai whisky does lives up to its name. Don’t say we didn’t warn you!

Even if you have had a couple of shots of dog it would still be hard to miss SuriyanChandra (Nimmandhaemin Soi 1, 053-227-480. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.suriyanchandra.com). This look-at-me, over-the-top shop is an artwork in itself and transports you into an Arabian nights wonderland filled with vivid contrasting colors, bohemian flair and colorful hanging lamps. It stocks various home décor accessories as well as a good range of world music CDs. You can also check out SuriyanChandra’s brand new baby Avatar (Sirimangkalajarn Rd., 053-220-911. Open daily 11am-7:30pm), which plans to sell similar stuff in a bigger space and is just ten minutes away on foot.

Relaxing Rub

After all the shopping, adventures and caffeine it’s no surprise if your nerves are a little frayed and you need to give your tired muscles some pampering. For a real touch of opulence lie down at the elegant teakwood Chiang Mai Oasis Spa (102 Sirimangkalajarn Rd., 053-920-111. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.chiangmaioasis.com) and try their new 90-minute Authentic Gold Massage (B5,900), a four-handed massage in which you’ll be rubbed down with fragrant oils infused with gold flakes. Through Oct 31, book any two-hour signature treatment and you’ll get a complimentary one-hour Organic Avocado Hair Spa treatment.

Fully equipped with elegant treatment rooms, Jacuzzi and mani-pedi salons, Spa Cenvaree (4/F, Centara Duangtawan Hotel Chiang Mai, Loykroh Rd., Chang Klan, 053-905-000. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.spacenvaree.com) is the new kid on the massage block. As you can expect from a hotel spa, prices are relatively high but it has an extensive range of head-to-toe treatments to cater to your every whim.