Ultimate relaxation in Vietnam’s chillest town. Text and photos by Saransri Prawatpattanakul

Last February, Sapa witnessed record snowfalls. While many people are worried about global warming, it’s not necessary to travel all the way to Japan or New Zealand to get some cool, fresh air. A part of Lao Cai Province, Sapa sits at the frontier between Vietnam and China and enjoys cool year-round weather with freezing temperatures in the winter and 29 degrees Celsius in the summer. On our last visit, in early March, temperatures dropped to five degrees—so make sure you dress appropriately! Mornings are charmingly misty and low clouds often linger over the town all day, making the atmosphere dreamy and peaceful.

Sapa, like our Pai or Laos’ Vang Vieng, is one of those super-chill destinations for backpackers who want it quiet and “real.” But while Pai or Vang Vieng owe all of their charm to the surrounding nature, Sapa also boasts French-influenced architecture that gives it a spattering of lovely and colorful homes on the slopes of its hills. The town is now fairly developed, with hotels and restaurants mushrooming everywhere, but hilltribes continue to live, farm and make handicrafts in the immediate surroundings. The fields are particularly photogenic in the summer. As for the tribes themselves, there are over 20 of them: Dzao (see box), Black Hmong, Tay, Xa Pho and more.

What to do

Trekkers can keep busy with daily excursions into the different hilltribe villages. Tracks are now well trodden and walks are quite easy. With this weather, it’s a real pleasure. The most popular route is to the Cat Cat Cultural Village (VND10,000 entrance fee), a 90 minute walk. Stunning terraced rice paddies line the narrow path and people usually stop for photos along the way. Unfortunately, it’s one of the most commercial villages and the villagers try hard to sell their products. Often in these village-wide gift shops, you can hang out and watch people make handicrafts. Of course, you’re paying tourist prices: the same embroidered bag bought for US$2 in Sapa was offered to us in the village for US$8. On the way to the village, you can find a small waterfall, the pride of the locals. Lazy bums can even hire a motorcycle taxi in town for VND40,000. The rider will drive you back, too, of course.

Sin Chai village is where the Dzao people live. It’s a 45-minute walk from town and there’s no entrance fee. Not as popular with tourists, get prepared for a more authentic village scene, complete with stinky pigs. Cozy up to the locals and they’ll let you into their homes—no electricity and a smoky fire for warmth and cooking.

A hundred kilometers from Sapa, Bac Ha’s Sunday Market is a real must-see for its many lovely and colorful handicrafts. Ethnic groups gather there to trade news, meet up and sell their products. It’s a very busy and lively sight. Go early if you don’t want to face the traffic of vans of tourists. Another option is Ta Phin Village with a short trek to see the daily life of ethnic people.

Too lazy to leave town? Hang out at the many cafés, walk around the square where locals put up their stalls offering anything from food to blankets and, browse handmade products sold by hilltribe people. But be warned, not unlike stepping into a Califoria Wow, a simple peek at their wares will land you an unrelenting hard seller who will hound you all day until you give in. The rest of the usual touristy shopping rules apply, too: walk off, feign a stroke, say you’re bankrupt and be careful with currencies (prices can even get knocked up when you buy several items). Or get used to not paying local prices—news flash: you’re not a local—support the local economy and buy yourself some peace of mind.

What to eat

When in Vietnam, eat pho. You can find food at every corner of Sapa, but be careful when you visit a street side stall. Again, while locals pay VND7,000 for a bowl of pho, you’re expected to fork out VND20,000. Ask for the price first. It’s that or sticking to the nice restaurants that hang their menu out in the front. Our recommendation is Le Pho (18 Phan Xuan Huan, Sapa, Lao Cai, Vietnam, 20-873-439, www.lepho.net), a nice French-style building hidden in a narrow lane. They offer pho with yummy soup (VND29,000-32,000) and great spring rolls (VND25,000) but you might want to ignore the complimentary deep-fried Chinese bread. Cha Pa Garden (23b Cau May St., Sapa, Lao Cai, Vietnam, 20-872-907, www.chapagarden.com) serves cheap French fare for around VND70,000-200,000. And don’t miss the popular Baguette and Chocolat (Thac Bac St., 20-871-766) and its patisseries, international and local cuisine. Try the crispy and juicy pizza saucisse (VND42,000). The place is lovely, the food is great, but the staff seems to serve Europeans first.