The capital’s controversial Olympic makeover has led to a design revolution. By Amy Kelly Golden

China’s capital is becoming more chic than commie by the minute. The extensive reinvention of the city ahead of next summer’s Olympics has given Beijing a glossy new skyline. It’s a stunning transformation from the lethargic, moldy old Beijing of a decade ago. Now, the capital bustles with energy and an optimism that suggests the best is yet to come. So go north for your next getaway. The Olympic countdown clock ticking in Tiananmen Square is a pressing reminder of the city’s mission impossible. You only have a few months to discover the new Beijing for yourself before the rest of the world descends on her next summer.

Rooms Aplenty

Western power players are sweeping into the city in a five-star race to capitalize on next year’s Beijing bonanza. The Grand Hyatt and The Peninsula are already established in central locations near Tiananmen Square and Oriental Plaza. The Four Seasons opens next year, the Ritz-Carlton is opening a second hotel in the capital before Christmas, and the St. Regis is closing for a long-overdue renovation from November through May. For full-on Chinoiserie, rather than tasteful luxe, try the retro-chic kitsch Red Capital Residence: five luxurious rooms in a restored courtyard home. Caveat emptor: check your five-star expectations at the door and bring your appreciation for the novel setting and retro spirit.

Venture the Roads

Room sorted, it’s time to venture forth. If you’ve never been to Beijing, essential sights include Tiananmen Square, for that Olympic countdown clock and what remains of Mao Zedong, the bodacious Forbidden City, the majestic Temple of Heaven and the Great Wall at Simatai (not over-crowded Badaling). But make time to experience the city’s flourishing new style and cultural scene.

Artsy Sightseeing

The meeting of old and new China is nowhere more poetically expressed than at the flourishing art districts: 798 Space in Dashanzi District and Chaoyang Liquor Factory in Chaoyang. A provocative blend of raw urban authenticity, political overtures and sublime modern aesthetics, they’re not to be missed. The original Factory 798 was built in Bauhaus style by German engineers in the 1950s, and manufactured electronics. But it found a new lease of life in 2002, when artists and cultural organizations began to move in, carving up the cavernous spaces and opening galleries, studios, design shops, cafes and restaurants and even loft living spaces. 798 Space exudes the kind of rugged authenticity most art districts vainly attempt to emulate: a balance of effortless hip and skilled curation that attracts an arty crowd, with not a designer logo to be seen. The Chaoyang Liquor Factory is fast catching up, having started life as a brewery before being colonized by artists in 2005. It’s now home to almost 100 artists and studios, including Italian gallery Arario Beijing.

For more unusual treasures, venture out to one of the markets and antique districts, such as Chaoyang’s Pan Jian Yuan dirt market, where people gather to sell antiques, art, crafts and plain old junk (it’s about three minutes’ cab ride from Red Bridge, or Hong Qiao). While you’re in the area, Chaowai Furniture Warehouse and Guang Han Tang—set in a courtyard house constructed in a derelict factory—have eclectic collections of antiques and memorabilia.

Fair Gourmet

No visit to Chaoyang would be complete without a visit to Green T. House: “part restaurant, part teahouse, part gallery, part cultural hub, and completely and unabashedly Chinese,” is how it describes itself. This is the first branch, which helped pioneer a design revolution in Beijing’s restaurants.Its sleek white and black interior oozes style, with modern takes on classic Chinese design elements. And yes, the food is superb—it’s just somewhat of an afterthought to the creative concept, objets d’art and inventive drinks. In case you start taking yourself too seriously, your hostess with the mostest, JinR, keeps you humble by serving beer from a bowl (albeit a beautifully handcrafted one). Also worth a visit is the new Green T. House Living on the outskirts of Beijing, a 15,000-square-meter complex of Warring States period-inspired architecture, with an expansive white stone courtyard and a black stone reflection pool. Look out for next year’s addition of ultra-exclusive luxurious villas at the T. Bath & Retreat for overnight stays.

For a more classic northern Chinese menu in a smart setting, look no further than the Grand Hyatt’s notable restaurant, Made in China. Twice-fried duck and pancakes, as well as anything that is a house specialty, are delicious.

Night Owls

Ready for some nightlife? For a glamorous night of dining and partying, the Philippe Starck-designed Lan Club in the Twin Towers is the place to be. Or try Centro lounge and party-hopping at Block 8, a nightlife complex with two high-end restaurants (Haiku and Med), an exclusive lounge (i-Ultra Lounge) and an outdoor patio with sand (The Beach).
Nanluoguxiang Hutong, also known as “eat and drink street” offers casual fare and a laid-back atmosphere with cafes, bars and boutiques in a well-preserved hutong neighborhood, making it all the more appealing amid the sweeping city changes.