A dozen things to do in Shenzhen

Before 1979, if you traveled to Shenzhen, the capital of Guandong Province, you would find a charming fisherman’s village. But that postcard perfect quaintness radically changed after China’s then-leader Deng Xiaoping declared, “To get rich is glorious,” and decided to make this mainland area, which is located near Hong Kong, the first special economic zone in China. Nearly 30 years later, it’s a city bursting with energy, populated with 8.3 million busy city-dwellers, tall buildings and malls. Fake Louis Vuitton bags have replaced the fishing nets, but beneath the industrial and commercial surface of Shenzhen, it’s an affordable and exciting getaway.

View some art

The new art space, O-CAT (Contemporary Art Terminal, Overseas Chinese Town, 86-755-2691-6199, www.o-cat.net. Metro station: Qiao Cheng Dong), is Shenzhen’s version of Beijing’s 798 art district. The space is a converted factory, and is filled with galleries and design firms. A premier tenant is the Hong Kong designer, Kenneth Ko, who built a studio there. There’s also a nice home décor shop, a cafe, a noodle kitchen and even a gym replete with huge portraits of steroid-addled musclemen. Even the most artistic place in Shenzhen has its fair amount of tackiness, but who are we to criticize—as if there’s nothing like this in Bangkok.

Tea time

If your cup of tea is, well, tea, check out Chamate (B/F, 1 Kingglory Plaza, 2028 Renmin Nan Lu, 86-755-8261-1067. Metro station: Guomao), a chain of modern Chinese teahouses spread throughout northern China, famous for their casual but elegant décor in every shop. Dian hong, a relatively high-end black tea from Yunnan, is served gratis in dainty little cups to get you warmed up. For a refreshing treat, try the non-traditional cold-brewed Longjing tea, in which the leaves have been marinated in cold water for six hours. It goes well with a rather bizarre concoction (but still delicious), kimchi cheese tart.

Be the boy in the bubble

Like many, we’ve always wondered what it would be like to be a hamster. Hoist yourself into a giant inflatable bubble and run around on the lake at the Shenzhen Culture Park (Renmin Gongyuan Lu) and vow never to put your pet through such an ordeal again.

Get a super shampoo

The best part about getting a shampoo in Bangkok is that you get a head massage beforehand. Walk into any hairdresser in Shenzhen and you’ll get your neck, shoulders, arms and legs worked over as well. It’s the most relaxing shampoo you’ll ever have.

Eat ant eggs

It sounds nastier than it is, honestly. Apparently ant’s eggs are in season during the Chinese summertime, so now’s the time to indulge at Shou Xiang Ren (Longevity Village Person) restaurant (Block 13, Tang Ren Jie, Nanshan Da Dao, 86-755-2698-8128). Eating here is an experience in itself, and ants aren’t the only odd creature on display. We never did find out how they prepared and served that turtle-like creature in the tank.

A drive to shop

The latest thumb drives around Bangkok seem to be just eight gigs. But you can find thumb drives with four times as much free space at Lo Wu Commercial Center (Metro Station: Lo Wu) at the Mah Boon Krong of Shenzhen. There are plenty of other things that look authentic, including fake Louis Vuitton, Prada and iPods. On our trip, one of our travel companions got a 32-gigger for just ¥100, while another friend got a Coach bag for the same price. Just remember, bargain hard. And, guess what, we checked the thumb drive afterward on our laptop, and it worked!

Taste real dim sum

Dumplings are standard fare in China, but it’s sometimes hard to find them made properly and cheaply. Dongbei Dumpling House (66 Yan Nan Lu, Futian, 86-755-8334-9021) is the place to get them though, and each comes stuffed with different fillings. Prices are ¥7 for 15 and ¥10 for 20.

Eating on “Walking”

You can usually count on street food to give you the true flavor of any area. In Shenzhen, to get the best street flavor, you’ll want to go to Dongmai Beilu in the Eastern district, known as the “Walking Street.” It’s full of simple, excellent food—rice balls and sunflower seeds, xiao long bao and barbequed meats.

Racist dining

The Grey Wolf restaurant is easy to find: it looks like a big mud hut. They serve northwestern Chinese food which is excellent and unusual for this part of China. The Grey Wolf’s claim to infamy, though, is their notoriously racist door sign that reads: “Japanese people not allowed to enter.” Furthermore, the walls are bedecked with articles and photos about the Japanese invasion of China. The bar owner explains that he holds a grudge because the Japanese haven’t apologized for crimes committed during the invasion.

Gulp some local beer

The popular Kingway Beer Garden (1 Buxin Dongchang Rd., 86-755-2551-6328) is a gateway to oblivion—a large open air dining space, complete with plastic tables, yellow tablecloths, and penny pitchers of the fabulously artificial local brew, Kingway. Preservatives and chemicals included free with your beer.

Smoke wherever you want

The Ministry of Health might not like this, but smokers will be happy to know that they don’t have to venture into a parking lot, leave friends at the lunch table or walk hurriedly to finish a tour in a park in order to smoke. People in Shenzhen smoke everywhere, in malls, air-con restaurants, parks or bus stops.

Flying cheap

Before, only hisos could fly there for the weekend to buy fake shoes to match their real brand name bag. But now, going to Shenzhen can be as cheap as Chiang Mai. AirAsia (02-515-9999, www.airasia.com) offers service there with prices around B1,998, excluding taxes and surcharges. So you can save your money for some more bags. ■