Massive deals, fewer tourists—now’s the perfect time to visit the Pearl of the Andaman. By Duangtawan Nilayon

Art Village

Pick up some original works at the Art Village at Saiyuan (Rawai, Muang). It has 12 galleries with indigenous pieces by Thai artists from all over the country including, Apinan Sarochwong’s acrylic paintings at Tawan Ook Art gallery original art and café (88/5 Moo 1, Viset Rd., 08-1956-5872), Sinn-a-roon Rasmaneenopsawej’s woodcrafts at his Waan-D art to Rest (4/6 Moo 1 Viset Rd.) and Ramadon Kohanae’s semi-abstract works at Ramadon’s Art Studio (63/6 Saiyuan Rd.). Still can’t get the picture? It’s just like Pai, but by the sea.

Bon Island

A true hideaway destination 15 minutes from Phuket by longtail boat, Evason Phuket’s (100 Viset Rd., Rawai, 076-381-010. www.sixsenses.com) Honeymoon Suite is the only overnight accommodation on the island. The suite comes equipped with a large bathtub on a private balcony, DVD player and Hi-Fi system allowing you to enjoy the first night of your married life in isolated bliss. If you can’t afford to stump up B25,000 a night, the more affordable option is one of their day salas—10 Thai-style huts with daybeds, open-air shower and ceiling fan. From B1,060-1,765 (the more expensive, the better the view). 

Cafés

While you’re in town, visit Cafe346 (346 Phuket Rd., 076-216-332. www.phuket346.com), which is an all-in-one gallery, café and guesthouse. It’s situated in a classic Sino-Colonial building and their food is that rare combination, good and cheap. But, if you are a fan of Scorsese, Tarantino and Thailand’s own Apichatpong Weerasethakul, then drop by at Room 2521 (61 Thalang Rd., 076-258-254. www.room2521.com). Founded by Marut Petchlek, a doctor with a passion for indie cinema, the place is one of the best “indie” hubs in Thailand and a great source for rare films, lomo photos and intriguing movie-related books.

Dining

On the whole, the effect of tourists is usually that prices go up and quality goes down. But if you know where to look (see Fine Feasts), they can also draw the best chefs for discerning visitors.

Excitement

For some high-speed thrills, head to Phuket Cable Ski (86/3 Moo 6, Vichitsongkram Rd., Kathu, 076-202-525/-7. www.phuketcableski.com) and try some wakeboarding. Alternatively, head over Nai Harn during the low season (May-October) when the monsoon winds whip up some impressive waves. Catch all the local beach bums as they wait on their boards for the perfect breakers. Surf’s up, dude!

Fantasy

Phuket Fantasea (99 Moo 3 Kamala Beach, Kathu, 076-385-000. www.phuket-fantasea.com) might be aimed at tourists, but it’s actually rather impressive, just like Siam Niramit here in Bangkok. Inspired by Thai history, and located within the 566,599 square meter cultural theme park (which sucks), the show itself is big on special effects, live animals, cable stunts and a very cinematic soundtrack. The show is at 9pm, Fri-Wed. Tickets are B1,100 per person (B1,900 with buffet dinner if you like tourist crowds in a canteen atmosphere).

Getting Around

Motorcycles are for deliverymen and Euro trash; the cartel run taxis and songthaews are so darn expensive; getting your own four wheels is really the best way to get around. Why not go the whole hog and get a roadster! Thai Rent A Car (02-318-8888. www.thairentacar.com) has a convertible Mazda MX5 for you to drive around the island for only B3,500 a day. Or, for something less eye-catching, consider the new Honda Accord (B2,510 per day) or new Toyota Altis (B1,750 per day) instead. Word of warning: check where you park so you don’t fall foul of the local tuk tuk mafia. They’ll think nothing of trashing your vehicle if it’s on their turf.

Hokkien Noodles

One of the benefits of Phuket Town’s large Chinese community is their delicious culinary specialties. Hokkien noodles top the list. Try Mee Ton Pho (214/7 Phuket Rd. Wongwien Surin, near the Clock Tower, 076-216-293) for their scrumptious mix of yellow noodles, mushrooms, soft-boiled egg, shrimp and squid.

Islands

Koh Kai Nai is a tiny island, 20 minutes from Phuket. On one side, the rocky coastline acts as an ideal shelter for fish and coral, making it perfect for snorkeling. If you just want to catch some rays, then head to the other side where you can laze on the beautiful clean, white, sandy beach.

Koh Racha Yai is located off the southern tip of Phuket (45 minutes by speed boat from Ao Chalong or Rawai beach), and while the main bay gets very busy thanks to tourist day trips, a quick walk can get you to other deserted beaches on the island. There, you’ll find clean and clear water and excellent coral reefs. This is also one of the first spots in Thailand to introduce artificial reefs.

Koh Maithon is where Crown Prince Jigmi of Bhutan visited when he was in Thailand for the 60th anniversary celebrations of HM the King’s accession to the throne. The water is as clear as crystal and you have great views of Phi Phi island.

Jungceylon

Jungceylon (181 Rat-U-Thit Rd., Patong, Kathu, 076-600-111. www.jungceylon.com) is the newest mall in Patong. Its attempt to recreate a kind of old colonial atmosphere is a bit like the Venetian Macau’s idea of Venice, Italy—more movie set than museum—if not quite on such a grand scale. Still on a rainy day, the wide choice of different stores and restaurants means it certainly beats staying in your room.

Karting

There are two big karting racetracks in Phuket. The most famous is Patong Go-kart Speedway (118/5 Vichitsongkram Rd., Moo 7, Kathu, 076-321-949. www.gokartthailand.com), right on the road from Phuket Town to Patong, at the foot of the mountain. But there’s a much better one across from it that can’t be seen from the road—Phuket Kart Speedway (46/129 Moo 6, Phra Baramee Rd., 08-9728-9712. www.phuketkart.net).

Lam Promthep

It’s universally agreed that Promthep Cape, at the Southern tip of Phuket, is the most romantic spot to watch the sun go down on the island. And you know what? It’s actually true.

Museums

See Museums for Rainy Days.

Nightlife

See Party Time

Old

See Baba Town

Pearl

It’s not called the Pearl of the Andaman for nothing. Stock up on the shiny orbs at the Phuket Pearl Factory (Opposite Lam Hin, 076-238-002).

Quick Hops

Imagine taking in a stunning aerial view of the Andaman Sea from a private seaplane while sipping Champagne. With Destination Air (22/9 Airport Road, Talang, 076-328-637/-39. www.destinationair.com), a 90-minute charter from Phuket to Koh Tapu (James Bond island) and Koh Phi Phi and back is B96,000; a day-trip charter to Koh Mook with some Emerald Cave sightseeing is around B150,000. Or, for a more affordable option, take their shuttle service to your resort from the airport. One-way to Koh Phi Phi’s Zeavola resort (11 Moo 8 Laem Tong, 075-627-000), for example, is B5,000 per person.

Relax

Pamper yourself in the soothing atmosphere of the Palm Spa (Twin Palms Phuket, 106/46 Moo 3, Surin Beach Rd., Cherng Talay, 076-316-500. www.twinpalms-phuket.com.) Combining the use of volcanic stones and professional Swedish massage techniques, it promises to relieve your stress and rebalance your body, mind and spirit. A 90-minute treatment costs B3,200. Or get revitalized at Venus Spa (Mercure Patong Phuket, 239 Rach-Uthit Rd., Patong, 076-302-100. www.mercurepatongphuket.com). Its 1:45-hour Venus Relaxing Package (foot spa and massage, back massage, neck massage, shoulder massage and Thai herbal compress) costs B1,250 only. Through Sep 30.

Sand

And now the topic everyone’s been waiting for: beaches. While many are now horribly crowded with pasty red tourists, there are still a few idyllic bays where you can escape the mob.

Lam Singh used to be Phuket’s best kept secret. Now it’s been discovered but it remains utterly gorgeous and for the time being has escaped the ravages of construction. You have to pay to park your car and you’ll probably have to rent a chair, but it’s a public beach one kilometer south of Surin beach on the main road (you’ll see the signs). There’s further parking a few hundreds meters further south, but the northern path is an easier walk.
Freedom beach lies to the south of Patong and can only be accessed by long-tail boat, making it pretty quiet and more exclusive. The boat ride takes 10 minutes from Patong beach (B1,000-1,500, depending on your bargaining ability). It used be a good spot for snorkeling, but the Tsunami had a devastating effect on the coral. 

Finally, Nai Harn is another beach that has somehow escaped the throngs of tourists so far. The Royal Phuket Yacht Club occupies one side of it, but the rest is still blissfully free of development. You can swim, surf or wakeboard here (see Excitement page 8), but watch out for the red flag signaling “no swimming” during monsoon period (May-October), as the waves and riptides can get real rough.

Turtles

For many centuries, leatherback sea turtles have been coming to Mai Khao beach to bury their eggs under the sand. Rampant resort development has threatened to upset this fine natural balance. Fortunately JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa (231 Moo 3, Maikhao, 076-338-000 www.jwmarriottphuket.com) has stepped in and founded The Mai Khao Marine Turtle Foundation. Their aim is to help raise funds and awareness to support the local Mai Khao villagers protect and preserve these amazing sea creatures. You can either donate or join its annual eco-event. Check their website for updates.

Under the sea

A story on Phuket wouldn’t be complete without covering diving, as the surrounding sea has some of the world’s top-rated dive spots. Besides Koh Racha (see Islands) other interesting dive spots are Koh Hae, Anemone Reef and Shark Point. Koh Hae, in the south of Phuket, is popular because the coral reefs are situated close to the shoreline. Anemone Reef and Shark Point are two pinnacles situated between Phuket and Phi Phi island, known for their abundant marine life and the opportunity to see the majestic whale sharks and manta rays.

Voluntourism

How about getting closer to nature and giving something back at the same time? The Gibbon Wild Animal Rescue Foundation of Thailand runs the Gibbon Rehabilitation Project (Bangpae Waterfall, Pa Khlock, Talang, 076-260-491/2. www.gibbonproject.org) where volunteers can feed and care for their rescued monkeys. Though be warned: these guys have been known to bite, so make sure you get your shots first!

Wine

The hordes of tourists mean everything is more expensive in Phuket, right? Wrong. Wine Care at Tesco Lotus (104 Moo 5, Chalermprakiat Rama 9 Rd., Muang, 076-254-888/-912) has prices that are downright bizarre—some are even cheaper than in Europe. Isn’t capitalism great?

X-treme

Try boosting your adrenaline level by bungee jumping from a height of 50 meters. Phuket Bungy (61/3 Moo 6, Tambon Kathu, 076-321-351. www.phuketbungy.com) is a professional bungee jumping company that has been in operation since 1992. We didn’t try it ourselves but a friend did and he was in catatonic shock for 24 hours. The first jump is B1,900, the second jump is B1,000, the third is B500, and if you’re crazy enough, they give you the fourth jump for free.

Yamu

Cape Yamu‘s (08-1419-0451/-3, www.capeyamu.com) 17 Philippe Starck-designed villas are situated on the peaceful Phang-Nga bay on the eastern tip of Phuket. It’s up for grabs, but it’s going to cost you anywhere between B110-150 million. Besides the luxury estate, they also plan to launch the boutique Yamu hotel in 2009. Can’t afford it? You can always get a copy of a Starck-designed chair at Suan Lum.

Zzzz

After a tiring day, you deserve a good night’s sleep. Check out our Low-Season Deals for the best offers around.