Not Yet Phuket

May 8th, 2008

Koh Chang retains its charms, if you know where to look. Text and photos by Duangtawan Nilayon

Divers, thrill seekers, and professionals in need of some total relaxation can all find something to float their boat in Koh Chang. A 30-minute ferry ride from Trat’s mainland, the island is blessed with a fresh sea breeze, crystal clear waters (it’s a national park) and lush tropical vegetation. But the past 10 years have taken their toll on the island paradise: vans, buses, songtaews, hotels, resorts, and the ubiquitous 7-Elevens are all cashing in—and weighing on—the elephant island’s pristine nature. It now takes a little help and driving around to get to Koh Chang’s many remaining charming spots.

Despite recent developments, “Lonely Beach” Hat Tha Nam is still much quieter than the buzzing Khao-San-like Hat Sai Kao. Located on the southern end of the island, between Kai Bae and rocky Bailan Bay, Hat Tha Nam’s white soft sand makes for quiet and relaxing walks. If even that is too civilized for the Indiana Jones in you, rough it to eastern side of Koh Chang, to Hat Yao (Long Beach), where you’ll find huts with no electricity.

If you get bored of snorkeling or diving (see box), go hopping from tree to tree at Tree Top Adventure Park (115 Moo 1, Ao Bailan, Tambon Koh Chang Tai, Kingampur Koh Chang, Trat, 08-4310-7600. Open daily 9am-5pm. www.treetopadventurepark.com). Sort of an adult playground, you can climb, jump, swing, play Tarzan & Jane on 30 platforms and relive your childhood all in a half a day.

Acrophobics can skip the tree jumping and head over to the charming Bangbao village where you can enjoy fresh seafood and a peek at fishermen houses on stilts above the ocean. If you’re ready to go a little further, Salak Phet, nestled in its own bay, is even more authentic. As the day comes to an end, stop off at the Bangbao post office and make your friends and family envious by sending a few postcards. Other than that, you better come with a stack of good books, lots of sun block, a fully loaded iPod and just kick back!

Essentials

How to get there

Bangkok Airways (02-265-5555. www.bangkokair.com) flies daily from Suvarnabhumi to Trat airport from B2,300 roundtrip (surcharges and taxes not included) with free transfer from the airport to Ao Thammachart pier in Lam Ngob.

There are four piers for ferry transfer to Koh Chang: Ferry Koh Chang (Ao Thammachart-Ao Supparod, 039-597-143), Centre Point Ferry (Tha Centre point-Tha Dan Gao, 039-538-196), Koh Chang Ferry (Tha Krom Luang Chumporn-Tha Dan Gao, 039-538-318) and Tha Rua Anusorn Yutthanavy (Tha Rua Mai-Tha Dan Gao).

The shortest route is Ao Thammachart-Ao Supparod (25 minutes, B150 for one car and a driver, B100 per each passenger). But if you want songtaew transfer, head to Centre Point Ferry (1 hour, B140 per person). Free air-con van transfer from Trat and songtaew transfer on Koh Chang is offered. (Call 039-538-196 for the service.)

Alternatively, Drive for 4.5 hours to Trat, then take a ferry for 30 minutes from Lam Ngob to Koh Chang. By motorway, from Rama 9 or Srinakarin Road, you must exit after the second toll way booth (Baan Bung Klaeng, Chantaburi, B60). You can then choose to travel from one of three piers to Koh Chang.

Where to stay

At Koh Chang Sea Hut (Tambon Koh Chang Tai, Ampur Koh Chang, 02-743-9046, 08-1285-0570), you can literally jump from your bungalow into the sea as the huts are built over the seawater. Room rates are B1,200-2,200.

When it comes to luxury, the newcomer Dusit Princess Koh Chang (111/1 Moo1, Tambon Koh Chang Tai, Ampur Koh Chang, Trat, 039-558-055/-8. www.dusit.com) is on the top of the list. A total of 96 rooms are equipped with quality in-room facilities like LCD TV and LAN internet. Prices start from B3,500.

Nisa Cabana Koh Chang (113 Moo 1, Tambon Koh Chang Tai, Ampur Koh Chang, Trat, 039-558-161. www.nisacabanakohchang.com) offers 42 rooms in a tropical garden atmosphere. Prices start at B3,500 for a garden view villa but can climb up to B6,500 during peak season.

Ramayana Koh Chang Resort (Klong Prao Beach, Koh Chang, Trat, 039-511-033, www.ramayanakochang.com) has 64 rooms divided into three types: Hanuman (deluxe), Ravana (junior suite) and Rama (family suite). Special rates are offered through Oct 31. The Hanuman room is B2,000, Ravana is B2,700 and a family suite is B4,100.

Where to eat

Ruan Thai restaurant (08-9833-517, 08-7999-1662. www.ruanthaiseafood.com) is the first restaurant in Bangbao. Recommended dishes are kung chae naam pla (shrimp in fish sauce) and tom yam with seafood, of course. Prices range from B100-250 per dish.

The Bay (08-1773-4680, 08-1854-8250), with its bright orange crab sign at its door, bamboo table sets and soft lighting, looks more like a bar than a restaurant. Order from its Thai seafood menu and you’ll see this is no pub: shrimp with tamarind sauce (B150), pla lui koh (deep fried sea bass, B180) and steamed fish in soy sauce (B180).

Comment on our story and you could win our weekly letter prize!