Niu’s (Concerto)

When we originally reviewed Niu’s, we raved about the exciting and well-executed Italian menu, while bemoaning the lack of a proper air con dining space. After all, fine dining shouldn’t be restricted to a noisy outdoor deck, filled with chain smoking tourists and their kids. Seems like it isn’t, as we discovered, when we made a return trip and managed to find our way up to the second floor and the proper dining room. This is suitably understated and sophisticated and suits the subsequent dress code. Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows flanking two sides of the room allow you to leave the jazz (and tourists) downstairs and let the food take center stage. Prepared by chef Marco Cammarata, it’s both inventive and delicious, showing he possesses a wonderful touch and true understanding of ingredients. He even works the tables and makes suggestions to diners. Shame the hit and miss service can sometimes take off some of the gloss. For the most part it’s slick, but even on a (very) quiet night it can be a little slow and on a busy night verges on downright sloppy. Don’t let this distract you from the food though, which consistently hits all the right notes. Take Cammarata’s sea scallop carpaccio with foie gras, rocket and raspberry. It’s an intriguing and unusual mix but the light zesty scallops balance perfectly with the creamy pate and sweet raspberry puree. The roasted porcini with goat cheese gets the same high praise. We’ve had better porcini but those thick slices sandwiching the sharp almost tangy cheese, the dollop of tapenade, the truffle oil and almonds—it all makes for a heady combination. In fact, truffle oil or foam is pretty ubiquitous, from the eggplant puree served with the bread basket to the roasted veal ravioli with truffle and cream essence. But Cammarata also proves his diversity with the almost North-African blend of flavors in dishes like the roasted kingfish on eggplant caponata and the more rustic, seasonal John Dory cooked with melted leeks. Whatever the dish, you get the same wonderfully light hand that demonstrates a great, creative chef in action. Add in an extensive wine list, and top name jazz acts downstairs and you have an experience that, service aside, is good value despite the hefty price tag. Corkage B600.