A glimpse at the sacred and the hip in Delhi.

Don’t be mistaken by what you read about India. There’s more than Hindu temples and snake charmers. The hustle and bustle of Delhi’s streets might make you dizzy but you won’t resist the peace, culture and charisma hiding in every nook and corner.

Old City, New India

New Delhi is the administrative capital built by the British on the borders of Delhi, the old capital of the Mughal Empire. The essence of the Mughal still runs strong in Delhi, despite a cityscape of soaring malls and skyscrapers. Jama Masjid Mosque (Chandni Chowk Rd., Old Delhi) is a classic icon of Mughal architecture with its red sandstone and intricate white and black marble floor. It is considered one of the most beautiful mosques in India and is big enough for some 25,000 worshippers. While you’re in the neighborhood, walk over to the old market, Chandni Chowk, the oldest and biggest market in Delhi where you can find authentic Indian food, shoes and leather goods at cheap prices. It sprawls at the foot of the Red Fort (called Lal Qila) built by the emperor Shajanhan, who also built the Taj Mahal. The fort features a blend of Indian, European and Persian artwork.

Canaught Place Road, commonly known as Rajiv Chowk, is where all the big inter brands and chain restaurants and pubs can be found. Bercos, Rodeo, Saqi Bar, QBar, United Cooffee House and DV8 are just some of the places locals like to hang out at. Nearby is Janpath Market (Janpath Rd.) where you can get all kinds of knick-knacks, Indian crafts and other stuff. But be careful while shopping—prices here are meant to be divided by three! Good luck with the bargaining.

Down the road from the market is India Gate, the monument built for Indian soldiers. It is one of the most attractive tourist spots for taking pictures as it is on Parliament Street, with a perfect view of the Parliament House as the backdrop. Locals come here during the evening hours to chill with their family and friends. Other monuments you might want to check out are the Bahai Temple or Lotus Temple (Kalkaji Rd., South Delhi), which is in the shape of a lotus flower; Qutub Minar (MG Rd., South Delhi), the tallest brick minaret in the world; and Akshardham Temple (Near Noida in East Delhi) sitting on the banks of river Yamuna—the holy river. There you can pray to the Hindu gods and goddesses or just enjoy its blend of architecutral styles from across India. By night, it has a musical fountain show representing the circle of life.

The New India

Most of Delhi’s best clubs are in five-star hotels. Capitol (Ashoka Hotel, Chanakyapuri Rd.) may not be very big but it is one of the most visited clubs, mostly by youngsters who dance the night away. The Pool Lounge (Hyatt Regency Hotel, Bikaji Cama Place Rd.) has the old Brit vibe going on strong with its paneled wood, leather seating and a fireplace. They do serve the best malt whiskies in town, though. Aura—The Vodka Bar (Claridge’s Hotel, Canaught Place) has the best house music and vodkas. Elevate (Centerstage Mall, Noida), the biggest club in Delhi, consists of four floors with different musical genres. It also has a separate section for VIPs where you might rub shoulders with some Indian celebrities—if you get in, that is. TabulaRasa (Square One Mall, Saket Rd.) is a stylish rooftop resto-bar with good house music. This is the new happening place, so bring your best outfit and dancing shoes. You can also try Hookah bar at Shalom (Qutub Enclave Rd.). Or if you’re up for some rock, hit the Café Morrison (South Extension Part 1 Rd.).

Where to Stay

There are many five-star hotels like the Taj Mahal Place (Sardar Patel Marg, Diplomatic Enclave, +91 11-261-10202, www.tajhotels.com. Approximately INR8,400-100,000), the famous Oberoi Hotel (Dr. Zakir Hussain Marg, +91 11-2336-3030, www.oberoihotels.com. Approximately INR13,100-89,000) or the Intecontinental Hotel (Nehru Place Rd., +91 11-4122-3344, www.ichotelgroups.com. INR13,500-22,500). Cheaper ones include the Canaught Hotel (37, Shaheed Bhagat Singh Marg. Around INR7,500.), Florence Hotel (2719 Bank Street, Karol Bagh Market, www.hotelflorence.in. INR2,000 for a deluxe room), and Cosmo Hotel (7A/40,W.E.A Channa Market, Karol Bagh. Approximately INR15,818) but you find more on www.hotelsindelhi.com. These are budget hotels but they are the clean. Anything cheaper and you might be in for a bad surprise.

What to Eat

Just like in Bangkok, hit the streets for some of the best Indian food or Indian-Chinese food money can buy. Look out for the local specialty Gol Gappa, made from flour and tamarind water with some potatoes.

Warning: Most of the fine dinning places do mind if their guests wear flip-flops, so dress properly even though they are ready to forgive tourists.

United Coffee House (E-15 Canought Circle, Canought Place Rd., +91-11-2332-2075, +91-11-2373-1697. Open 9:30am-11:30pm) is popular among local elites. 

The coffee here is great, hence the name, but you should try their cocktails, too. The restaurant with old English décor also serves Indian, Continental, Chinese and South Indian food under one roof, with price starting from INR150. Nirula’s Potpourri (N-64, 1/F, Outer Circle Connaught Place, +91-11-4151-7070) has a wide range of world cuisine, breakfast buffet, salad bar and pastas with light setting and an inviting ambience, but it’s also expensive. Pebble Street Restaurant (8,Community Center, New Friends Colony, +91-11-2684-4380, +91-11-2684-4366. Open daily 4pm-midnight) is more of a pub but one can dine with some delicious food and foot-tapping music. We love the happy hours from 4pm to 8:45pm. Mama Rasoi’s (M 22/1, Cannought Place Rd., +91-11-2341-5861) offers authentic Indian food. Good for those who have the taste for some real Indian spicy food with friendly prices. QBA (E 42/43 Cannought Place (Inner Circle), Cannought Place Rd., +91-11-4151-2888. Open daily: lunch noon-3pm, dinner 7pm-midnight and lounge noon-midnight) is just fabulous. This stylish restro-bar serves delectable food and drinks from all over the world. For a more casual dinner, Nathu’s Sweet Restaurant (23-25 Bengali Markets, Canought Place Rd., +91-11-2371-9784. Open daily 7am-11pm) offers vegetarian food at affordable prices. There are branches all over Delhi. No fancy setting, but there are yummy Indian sweets. Snack starts from INR35 and food starts from INR70.