December 5, 2008 | Bangkok
Issue #265: Winter Travel

Moscow On My Mind

Moscow On My Mind

January 3rd, 2008

Experience the land of the big bear.

After the fall of communism nearly two decades ago, Russia flung open its doors to an outside world eager to explore the land of the bear. Despite rumors about how terrifying Russia can be, Moscow is a city you should visit at least once in your life—especially if you like vodka.

Like any major capital city, Moscow has a “fully” equipped transportation system including buses and a subway, but the best way to travel around the city is by walking.

Places You Can’t Miss

First-time visitors must start their explorations at the city’s world-famous Red Square, the equivalent of a town hall. The square itself is bordered by Saint Basil’s Cathedral and the gigantic store, G.U.M (Krasnaya PL., 149-788-4343. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.gum.ru), located on the east side of the square. This century-old institution, G.U.M stands for Gosudarstvenny Universalny Magazine or State Department Store boasts many luxury European fashion brands scattered throughout its three stories, while souvenir stalls pepper the walkway and hall. If you’re not the shopaholic kind, taking snapshots of the mall’s neo-Russian architecture is good enough. Be warned: if you’re cruising around the square and decide to take pictures of the locals, some Russians may not be too thrilled. 

There is also Lenin’s Mausoleum (the tomb of Lenin, open Tue-Thu, Sat-Sun 10am-1pm) at the corner of the square. Brave the line for several hours to see Lenin’s preserved corpse—well, he’s a man who made history, so pay your respects. By the way, no photos or videos are allowed inside the tomb.

Stuff about Smirnoff

• The history of the world famous vodka goes as far back as 1864, when Piotr Arseneevich Smirnoff began to produce his own brand of vodka in Russia.
• In 1894, the Tsars placed an order for 1,200 bottles of Smirnoff for the Winter Palace, their main residence.
• The years that Smirnoff received the Russian government’s seal of approval: 1877, 1882, 1886 and 1896. 
• In 1918, the Smirnoff enterprise was nationalized by the revolution and closed down the next year.
• Smirnoff was sentenced to death by the revolutionaries, but was freed later after the anti-Bolshevik White Army rescued him.
• By 1933, Smirnoff vodka had returned to store shelves.
• Even now, Smirnoff No 21 is produced the same way as it was a century ago, including the process of charcoal filtration. It takes eight hours to pass through the 10 filtration stages of charcoal.

Still in the square and just a few minutes walk from the tomb, you will be greeted by St. Basil Cathedral (Red Square, 495-298-3304. Open Wed-Mon 11am-5pm), the highlight of your trip. You can’t claim to have reached Moscow or Russia if you haven’t seen the multi color onion-roofed cathedral with your very own eyes. The 500-year-old cathedral stands at the far corner of the square where its super flamboyant colors flash against the blue sky. Legend has it that Napoleon once ordered his soldiers to destroy it but they were busy with something else.

OK, so enough with all the buildings around the square. It’s time to get inside the great walls of the Kremlin Palace. Inside, where Russian royalty resided centuries ago, you shouldn’t miss Cathedral Square, surrounded by three cathedrals: The Cathedral of Dormition, the Cathedral of the Annunciation, and the Cathedral of the Archangel Michael, built between the late 14th to early 15th century. There are another two churches on the cathedral grounds: the Metropolitans and Patriarchs of Moscow and the Cathedral of the Twelve Apostles.

Apart from Cathedral Square, there are several buildings, some of which were used by the government. Only some of them are open to the public, but don’t miss the royal private collection of gold and silverware that Russian monarchs once received from their neighboring countries and gathered from churches around the kingdom. You might spend the whole day admiring their beauty.

Not so far from the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour (Soymonovsky PR., Open daily 6am-10pm) is another must-see Moscow landmark (at least from the outside) due to its sparkling golden dome. This marble and granite beauty is the largest church in the city.

The Pushkin Fine Arts Museum (Vokhonka UL., 495-203-7998. Open Tue-Sun 10am-4pm. www.museum.ru/gmii) is one stop you should make if you’re into paintings, hailing from all of Europe. The museum is famous for its impressionist and post-impressionist collections.
While you are traveling around inside the tube of the Moscow metro, get off at a world famous metro station like Mayakovskaya station, built in 1938. His masterpiece of mosaic art representing the Soviet victory during WWI. The Novokuznetskaya station that was built later in 1943 also has a patriotic theme, while Novoslobodskaya station is decorated by stained glass. The Ploshchad Revolyutsii is crowned by 76 bronze statues that extol socialism.

The Russian Circus is one thing you should try to slot into your busy trip. We recommend the Nikoulin Moscow Circus (Tsvetnoy Blvd., 495-625-8970) where you’ll be stunned by the ability of the performers.

One place that you might need to visit (though it’s not listed as a tourist attraction) is Luzhkov Bridge, which is also called the “Love Bridge” where freshly married couples come to confirm their love. Not far from the bridge, at the corner of Pyatnitskaya UL by the river, next to the small iron bridge is a house that served as the first Smirnoff Trade House, where the original Smirnoff was born (see Stuff about Smirnoff). The company are now trying to register the house as a museum. 

Where to Shop

Apart from GUM, there are also shopping areas like our JJ market and Siam Square. First start at the day market, Izmailovsky Souvenir Market (Izmaillovsky Park. Open Sat-Sun 9am-6pm). It is stacked with souvenirs, arts and crafts, and second-hand goods. You have to pay 10 rubbles to get in and, if you somehow lose your way and step out of market territory, yes, you have to pay again. The tip is to either continue to jabber English at the-mafia-looking guy until he lets you in again (it works but takes time), or show a picture from your digital camera that proves you were actually in the market before. There are two open-air levels: the ground floor and mezzanine. Don’t expect fashion products unless you are into military outfits. For the posher version of shopping, you should go to Stary Arbat, which is packed with international cosmetic shops/fashion brands. The street also has street performances and art sales. Two things that are so cute about this street are the drawings on the pavement by lovelorn couples. The other thing is the burgeoning trade in photos of tourists with cute animals along the walkway. You can take a picture with a super huge rabbit, a cute puppy and so forth.

Where to Stay

Metropol Inter-Continental (RUB9,800-40,500. 1/4 Teatralny Pr., 499-501-7800) represents the creme de la creme of hotels built in art-nouveau style with modern facilities. Moscow Marriott Royal Aurora (RUB10,900-14,900. 11/20 Petrovka Blvd., 495-937-1000. www.marriott.com) is located in the city center, which is better if you want fast access to all the sites.

Where to Eat

Most of the Russian food we’ve tried is far less spicy and far more plain than our tom yum. However, here are a few of our favorites. About a 10 minutes’ walk from the Red Square, you’ll find Kitay-Gorod (Varvarka PL., 495-698-4961. Open daily noon-midnight), offering traditional Russian food in a very Russian setting. Or opt for Yolki-Palki (14 Klimentovsky Per, 495-953-9130. Open daily 11am-midnight) for a country-like atmosphere with food that can’t go wrong (it is chain restaurant). Tsentralny Dom Literatov, aka TsDL (50 Povaskaya UL., 495-291-1515 Open daily noon-midnight) is a top-end restaurant offering splendid caviar and an excellent selection of Champagne.

Essentials

How to get there

THAI (02-356-1111, www.thaiair.com) has direct flights on Mon, Wed, Fri and Sun. Tickets cost around B33,000. National carrier Aeroflot (02-255-0617/8) has direct flights costing B25,500 on Mon, Tue, Thu, Sat and Sun.

Visa

Thais don’t need to apply for a visa if you stay in Moscow for no longer than 30 days.

Currency

1 Ruble = B1.2

The Embassy of the Russian Federation

78 Sap Rd., 02-234-9824, 02-234-2012. www.thailand.mid.ru.

Getting around

Metro: The best way to travel around city. RUB17/trip.
Taxi: Unless you call the taxi services, you won’t find “official” taxis. Those who claim to be taxis are (mostly) illegal and have no meters. Negotiation is a must. Normal fares start at RUB700 for the first 20 minutes.
Traffic: Moscow is known for having some of the worst traffic in the world. 
Bus: Not a bad choice for lovely days, but avoid peak hours in the morning and afternoon since the bus can turn into a can of sardines. Again, typical.

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