It’s the season for the traditional Shanghainese delicacy. Here’s how to eat them.

1. Pick your crab

The crustaceans from Jiangsu’s Yangcheng Lake in China are the most famous, but they’re also heavily counterfeited. In 2003, farmers even tried to laser print serial numbers onto the genuine article. They’re not the only kind that are tasty, but if you want the real deal, stick to a reputable source (see panel).

2. Break off the legs

It’s not a matter of life or death whether you start with the hairy claws or the legs, although everyone seems to have a preference. Break them off with your fingers and set them to the side.

3. Remove the apron

That small flap on the bottom of the crab that will tell you its gender (see “Boy or Girl”) is called the “apron.” Grab onto it, and open it away from the body of the crab. It will snap off easily. If there’s any roe attached to it, reserve it. Otherwise, there’s nothing to eat in the apron.

4. Remove the top shell

Once the legs and claws are gone, the crab is really just two parts: a top shell and the body it covers. Hold it as pictured, and open the shell firmly. Inside the top shell is where the fabled orange roe lies. Use a chopstick or long tool to scrape it out, along with everything else in the shell. It’s all edible.

5. Remove the lungs

Technically, they’re more gills than lungs. Either way, they’re the only part of the crab you don’t want to eat. They act as filters and taste bitter. After you’ve opened the shell, you’ll find them on the body of the crab. Pull them off with your fingers.

6. Break the body in half

Without the top shell (in the foreground), it’s possible to break the body in half with your hands. This will make it easier to remove the meat. Some very refined eaters take this a step further, and after breaking, use scissors to cut the body horizontally for even better access

7. Pick out the meat

If you’re at a fancy establishment, they might provide a specialized tool to do this. A chopstick works almost as well. Now that the body is open and accessible, remove the meat. You can be eating as you go, but some gourmands recommend doing all the work first and eating all at once.  

8. Attack the legs

If you have a cracker, use it to break open the claw. If not, open the pincers wide. The smaller one will break off and provide access to the meat. You’ll also need to take off the knuckle that’s attached to the claw. Break the legs in two sections by hand. Push the meat out with a chopstick or another tool at hand.