November 21, 2008 | Bangkok
Issue #263: Live Music

Get the Milk out of Khao Yai

Get the Milk out of Khao Yai

October 16th, 2007

photography by Nuttaporn Srisirirungsimakul

Nakorn Ratchasima is nicknamed Korat because much of the business there, and tourism, revolves around ko (cows). With such draws as Khao Yai National Park or Ratchaprapa Dam, it is an ever-popular driving destination for the weekend, or for a one-day tour to sightsee, eat and play. The sunflowers will bloom later this month, so if you are yearning for a trip filled with picturesque sunflower fields, start planning now. And of course, don’t miss out on Korat’s culinary attractions: fruit plantations, dairy farms, ranches, vineyards and more.

Great Grapes

Most of Thailand’s vineyards are located in Korat. One of the most recognized Thai wine brands, the Granmonte Family Vineyard (52 Moo 9, Phayayen, Pakchong, Nakorratchasima, 036-227-334/5, www.granmonte.com) is tucked away on the road to Khao Yai.  Escape the heat under one of their salas by the pond, or stroll along the vineyards and taste the homegrown food and, of course, the wine and grape juices. If you do come here, you must eat at their small but homey VinCotto Restaurant (Open daily except Wed, 08-1488-4490) where you can get a great steak or, better yet, a dish cooked with wine (B300-630), such as their braised veal shank in red wine.The vineyards owners, Sakuna and Visooth, are often seen greeting and welcoming their friends and diners. And if you like the fare at VinCotto, check out their shop for gifts to take home: wine, jams, salad dressings or grape juices. Not too far away is PB Valley Khao Yai Winery (102 Moo 5, Phaya Yen, Pakchong, Nakorn Ratchasima, 036-226415/6, www.khaoyaiwinery.com), which is also open to public. Owned by Singha’s Bhirombhakdi family, PB Valley is usually the starting point for people who come to visit the wineries in the area, and you can choose to take a tour with or without a meal at their Great Hornbill Grill restaurant, which includes Thai, fusion and German options (open daily 10am-8pm, 02-262-0030). It’s B700 if you opt for lunch or dinner, and groups of 4-20 people can enjoy wine tasting and a wine-making demonstration. There’s also a monthly concert here on the first Saturday night of each month.
        

Fresh Beef

Out of all the country style steakhouses, nothing beats Farm Chokchai (159-160 Moo 2, Nong Nam Daeng, Pakchong, Nakon Ratchasima, 044-328-485, www.farmchokchai.com), probably the most beloved steakhouse nationwide. Feel free to buy a cowboy hat before you drop in; you might need it as you tour the dairy farm’s 20,000-rai empire.

If you want to see everything there, you will need an extra day. They offer tours (B250 on weekends, B235 on weekdays; 044-935-504/5) where you can feel like a farm boy/girl. Try milking cows, horse riding, making ice cream or watch sheep dogs being trained. You can also visit the zoo and museum as well as sleep in a tent—don’t worry, they make it nice and comfortable, you won’t be roughing it too much. Their boutique campsite, in the middle of the farm, is encircled by greenery so you can pretend to be in a desolate forest, while checking your email under a tree. They have a two-day/one-night package, which includes lunch, tour, ice cream-making workshop, ranch-style dinner and picnic breakfast: B3,200 for weekdays and B3,700 for the weekend per person. One thing, you can’t be noisy at night: shhhhh.

Got Milk? 

Dairy Home (Mitraphap Rd., Muaklek, Saraburi, 044-362-020, 044-322-228. www.dairyhome.co.th. Open daily 9am-8pm) is set in a pretty country houses; on one side is a shop that sells dairy products, on the other side is a hearty restaurant. Everything here is organic, comes from their farm and is made without preservatives or MSG. The homestyle food here, both Thai and international, isn’t exceptional, but it’s cheap (around B75-250) and enjoyable, although the dairy products from the farm are particularly fresh and delicious. Their yogurt (B15) is superb, even the plain, non-flavored one. Also, we love the ice creams in such yummy flavors as marmalade, blueberry, cherry brandy, banana cheese and more—all served in a lovely cup that you can take home with you. If you are staying nearby, a glass of hot milk (B15) here is a good start to your day.

Fond Memories

You may be brought back to your childhood at Ban Mai Chay Nam Resort and Restaurant (21 Moo Baan Kohkaew, Pakchong, Nakorn Ratchasima, 044-314-236, 08-1899-9630, 08-1660-2826, www.banmaichaynam.com). This oldie eatery collects baan baan toys, wooden decorative items, some of which are for sale. The teak house restaurant extends to a creek and sits under the shade of the tall trees. Chic-looking old-style coffee machines are available at their coffee corner, which serves fresh real java. Ban Mai muu satay (B80) is tender and juicy, while the three-flavor fried grouper (B250) is hot and spicy. They have rooms here, too. The rooms are interconnected with the restaurant, so you can see people eating just a few steps from your room. Even so, the tiny rooms are pretty and clean. The city center, Ban Mai Chai Nam is a hotspot, not only for tourists but for locals as well.

Accommodation consists of a house (B1,800 per night weekdays/B2,000 weekends), rooms for two (B900/B1,200) or rooms for four to five (B1,800/B2,000).You sort of have to eat there when you visit—it’s the thing to do. You can trust that the quality of the beef will be top-notch, although the appeal is more freshness than actual taste. Go for the Chokchai premium steaks (B460-650). Save some room for ice cream, which is super delicious if you like it very creamy.

 


Where to Stay

Apart from Farm Chokchai and Ban Mai Chay Nam, there are plenty of new resorts mushrooming around the area. Land Breeze Resorts (122 Moo 5, Baan Nong Makha, Pakchong, Nakorn Ratchasima, 044-318-188, www.landbreezeresort.com) has lovely cottages at affordable prices. If you don’t mind the average service, you can enjoy a peaceful atmosphere where the cottages are set a healthy distance from each other. Rates range from B800-4,000 (for two to 20 people a night). Call ahead, because rooms are often fully booked.

Tepmongkol Resort (293 Mitraphap Rd., Pakchong, Nakorn Ratchasima, 08-9899-6873, 08-1918-5429) offers comfortable houses with two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a living room and a balcony for B3,000 a night. Don’t expect much from the service, and they don’t have a restaurant, or anything for sale. The restaurant is just a quick drive away so you’ll want to get libations ahead of time, or else you find yourself drinking only water all day.

If it’s great amenities, facilities and service you desire, go to Bonanza Ranch Khao Yai (236 Moo 5, Tanarat Rd., Pakchong, Nakorn Ratchasima, 044-365-191/2, www.bonanza-khaoyai.com). Prices range from B2,800 for a standard room to B8,000 for a grand suite. This well-known hotel and resort is equipped with a driving range, horse riding and ATV driving.

Phupiman Resort Farm and Spa (101/7 Moo 9, Pakchong, Nakorn Ratchasima, 044-318-011, 014-318-015, www.phupiman.com) is also popular. Their country houses are set among the greenery with flowers blooming all around. They have rooms, suites and villas for B1,500-12,000.   

How to Get There

Nakorn Ratchasima is just a three-hour drive from Bangkok, and the popular route is through Saraburi. Or you can catch a train from Hua Lamphong Station (State Railway of Thailand’s hotline: 1690. B50-230). 

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