A corridor from a luxury hotel sits in the middle of Hua Lampong as part of an art performance sponsored by Ballentine. At the foot of Zen department store, lavish photographs by French aerial photographer Yann Arthus-Bertrand mix art and eco-activism. A couple of months ago, monumental iron sculptures graced Parc Paragon as part of a temporary exhibition. Corporate sponsors get it: we like art! And so does the BMA, which opened two museums this year: the Museum of Siam (in April) and the Bangkok Art and Culture Center (in July). Will the public follow? Musty collections, strict dress codes, impossible opening hours—on our tour of Bangkok’s museums we saw a lot that needs improvement. But we also had fun! Here are our tips and addresses to make your next visit to the museum a great day out. Come on, give culture a chance.
CENTRAL
Bangkok Art and Culture Center
The long overdue art center has finally opened its doors. At the moment this monumental 11-story structure set in our city’s shopping hub is still something of a work in progress. Aside from the exhibition spaces on floors 7-9 and the art and culture library in the basement, the rest of the building is an empty shell. Accord to plans, 2009 will see restaurants, cafes and bookstores come to the BACC. Its first real exhibition, Siamese Smiles, has just opened, featuring mixed media art by renowned Thai and international artists depicting art, faith, politics and love.
The Perimeter: Want to take home some culture then this is the last weekend to explore the work of local artists at the art market [1] in front of the Art Center (Fri-Sun, 4pm-9pm, finishes Sun Sep 28). You know the area’s other offerings but if you want to keep it cultural, venture down Soi Kasemsan 2. There, you’ll find Jim Thompson’s.
The Tips: Their security guards are a little on the paranoid side. Our advice is to politely ignore their suggestion to deposit your bag at the usually deserted counter and keep your valuables to yourself.
Corner of Phaya Thai and Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630/1. BTS National Stadium. www.bacc.or.th. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. Admission: Free
Jim Thompson House
6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, opposite the National Stadium, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. www.jimthompsonhouse.com. Open daily 9am-5pm. Admission: B100 for adults, B50 for students and children
Jim Thompson, CIA agent and savior of Thai silk, lived in a complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country. His art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain hails mainly from Thailand, Japan and China. There are excellent temporary exhibitions above the shop.
Museum of Imagery Technology
Faculty of Science, Chulalongkorn University, Phaya Thai Rd., 02-218-5581/2. MRT Sam Yam. Open daily 10am-4pm. Admission: B100 for foreigners, B20 Thais.
The first camera and photograph museum in Thailand and Asia. On display: historic photos and equipment. It’s also a place to learn about modern photographic arts, techniques and printing technology. Call in to schedule a visit.
Suan Pakkad Palace
352-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. www.suanpakkad.com. Open daily 9am-4pm. Admission: B50 for Thais, B100 for foreigners
The household once belonged to their Royal Highnesses Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga. Its eight Thai-style houses showcase sculptures, furniture, and traditional instruments from the Rama V period. There’s also an exhibit on the Baan Chiang prehistoric site in the new wing.
The Tilleke & Gibbins Museum of Counterfeit Goods
Tilleke & Gibbins Building, 64/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-263-7700. BTS Chidlom. www.tillekeandgibbins.com. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Admission: Free
The counterfeit goods at Tilleke and Gibbons (the largest and oldest independent law firm in Thailand) were all collected by the police during raids and used as evidence in court. The constantly growing collection now holds over 1,500 pirated goods: clothing, leather, electronics, drugs and more.
CHAROEN KRUNG
Corrections Museum
Our gentle nation has one of the highest prison populations, the death penalty and a solid history of torture. No suprise we’ve dedicated a museum to it all. The Bangkok Remand Prison is now home to a gruesome array of punishment methods, reaching all the way back to the Ayutthaya period. Dan 9’s cells offer a creepy glimpse of life behind bars. But the highlight is the different tools and execution methods, from beheading to shooting on show. The eeriest part are the realistic-looking dummies on display to demonstrate how the tools were used.
The Surroundings: If you’ve got a bit of sadism left in you, stroll along Charoen Krung Road and admire a vast collection of gleaming firearm shops. On the same road there’s a decent chicken noodle stall, perfect for a quick and simple meal. However, if you prefer something refreshing, there’s a tiny ice cream shop near to the museum. 20th Century Ice Cream (11/3 Charoen Krung Rd., 02-222-4466) is a new cute little store that sells homemade ice cream. Further away, passed the intersection, On Lok Yoon (Charoen Krung Rd., 02-223-9621) offers old-school Thai custard dip, homemade bread, coffee and all-day breakfasts.
The Tip: Better to get there by taxi, as parking spaces are not easy to come by and there’s no BTS/MRT. Tell the driver to go to the park rather than the museum.
Rommani Nart Park, 436 Mahachai Rd., Samranrach, 02-226-1704. Open Mon-Fri 9am-4pm. Admission: Free
CHATUCHAK
Children’s Discovery Museum
810 Phaholyothin Rd., 02-615-7333. BTS Mo Chit, MRT Chatuchak. www.bkkcdm.com. Open Tue-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission: B190 for adults, B150 for children
An interactive museum that makes science fun for kids. It’s a big hall of games and toys. Packed and noisy during weekends—particularly the parking lot, which gets invaded with JJ shoppers.
Philatelic (Stamp) Museum
Between Soi 3 and 5, Phaholyothin Rd., 02-271-2439. BTS Saphan Khwai. Open Tue-Sun 9am-4pm. Admission: Free
Buy limited edition stamps at the shop and browse the extensive collection that reaches back to 1881. It is also a place to learn about the history of the Thai post.
DONG MUANG
Royal Thai Air Museum
171 Paholyothin Rd, just behind Don Muang Airport, 02-534-1853, 02-534-2113. www.rtaf.mi.th/museum. Open daily 8am-4pm (except on public holidays). Admission: Free
The purpose of setting up the museum was to collect and restore military paraphernalia of different periods, including equipment and aircrafts from the dawn of Thai aviation history up to the present day.
Science Museum
Technopolis Complex, Vibhavadi-Rangsit Rd., located on Klong 5, 02-577-9999 ext 1833. www.nsm.or.th. Open Tue-Thu 9:30am-4pm, Fri-Sun 9:30am-5pm. Admission: B50 for adults, free for students and children
Aside from their series of displays showing all things related to science and technology, the architecture alone should be enough to make you want to drag yourself to Rangsit. The science show is B10, at 10-11am and 1-2pm.
Southeast Asian Ceramics Museum of Bangkok University
Bangkok University, Rangsit Campus, 9/1 Moo 5, Klong Luang, 02-902-0299 ext 2890, 2892. Open Tue-Sat, 9am-4pm. Admission: Free
The collection of Mr. Surat Osathanugrah, the founder of Bangkok University, shows the evolution of Thai ceramics from Sukhothai, Lanna, and Ayutthaya. Aside from their permanent exhibition area, the museum also hosts temporary shows. There’s also a library and a space you can rent for events.
LADPRAO
Bangkok Sculpture Center
The three-story, studio-office-cum-gallery houses over 250 sculptures, all privately owned by Sermkhun Kunawong (see interview this page), the director of the center, who’s also responsible for the recent exhibition Passion of Thai Modern Art at Siam Paragon last July.
Your expedition starts at the front lawn with monumental bronze cast pieces. There are five sections in total, those on the second and third floors are specifically dedicated to respected Thai masters such as Manop Suwanpinta, Khien Yimsiri and Cheewa Komolmalai. The third floor is also home to the impressive rooftop garden displaying the collection’s larger pieces. Finally, the secret studio at the back of the museum, stores the rest from ancient Buddha statues to modern bronze sculptures.
The Surroundings: Soi Nuanchan 56 is pretty dead. We suggest you take your hungry tummy a bit further to the main Nuanchan street where you’ll find lots of odd-ball spots like this Isaan-Farang steakhouse Koh Khun Pone Yam Kham (next to Nuanchan Soi 21, 085-819-8832, 086-624-1237) that serves up som tam and nam tok with Thai-French beef.
The Tips: Since the venue also doubles as the offices of a lighting company, you might have a hard time finding a parking spot, and unfortunately, driving is the only way you can get to the center as taxis rarely pass. The center is also open to the public only twice a month! If you want special treatment, call and book for a group tour a week in advance.
PM Center Bldg., Nuanchan Soi 56, Pradit Manoothan Rd., 02-791-9400 ext 320. www.bangkoksculpturecenter.org. Open every 2nd and 4th Sat 10am-4pm. Admission: Free
Prasart Museum
9 Krungthep Kritha Soi 4, 02-379-3601, 02-3793607. Open Fri-Sun 9am-3pm. Admission: B300, including snacks and beverages
Though the museum is named “Prasart” (castle) you’re not going to find any here. Prasart is the name of a retired tycoon who used his wealth to build replicas of various architectural styles ranging from Thai teakwood houses to Khmer temples. Admission by appointment only. Call in advance to schefule a visit.
RATCHADAMNOEN
King Prajadhipok Museum
Panfa Bridge intersection, Ratchadamnoen Rd., 02-280-3413/4. Open Tue-Sun 9am-4pm. Admission: B40
The museum’s ground floor is for temporary exhibits, the museum shop and the café. The second and third floors are home to permanent shows. On display are photos and memorabilia from King Prajadhipok’s life before he was crowned, the coronation, the celebrations of Bangkok’s 150th anniversary and the revolution. There are also scenes and artifacts from the king’s life in England after he abdicated.
Museum of Siam: Discovery Museum
The old Ministry of Commerce building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum—or should we say learning center—that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam. You won’t find original artworks, antiques or artifacts on display here but rather an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels that breathe life into our heritage. A little intro video lays the theme out clear and simple, “What does it mean to be Thai?” Key characters, of different ethnicities and social classes, go about their days in short videos that provide a context to the different sections. The progression is roughly chronological: find Suvarnabhumi (the Golden Land), shoot some Burmese with a giant cannon in Ayutthaya and eat kao pad American in a 60s diner.
The building is also absolutely gorgeous. Huge teak planks make up the floors, ceiling heights are stupendous, and the central staircase is massive. The museum’s souvenir center, Muse, sells overpriced antique replicas, a fun pullout and cutout book based on the museum and a nifty collection of cloth bags and mugs adorned with the museum’s mascot, “Mr. Red Frog.”
The Surroundings: If you’re not feeling the Black Canyon Coffee’s overly sweet frozen cappuccino at the museum, you can walk along Maharaj Road to Vivi (Soi Paan Suk, 02-226-4672), a cute café by the river serving meals and cocktails with a view of Wat Arun. Or head to backpacker favorite Rub Ar Roon Café (02-622-2312) for sandwiches and affordable western dishes in the retro Chinese teahouse. For more learning, check out River Books (02-622-1900) opposite the museum’s exit for fine arts coffee table books and travel guides.
The Tips: This is the most historic part of Bangkok! While you’re here, try the BMA’s Green Bangkok Bikes. If you must drive, you can park your car at the museum and pay B20 for the first four hours with a stamp from the shop or museum.
Maharaj Rd., 02-225-2777. www.ndmi.or.th. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission: Free
National Museum Volunteers’ Annual Coffee Morning
If our special feature on museums has inspired you to start your own museum hopping journey, here’s a great place to start. The National Museum Volunteers is a group that helps promote Thailand’s culture and heritage. Their annual Coffee Morning event is a place where you can learn about their programs, sign up for study tours and make new museum mad buddies. At Dusit Thani Hotel, Rama 4 Rd. For more information, call 02-960-3843. Admission is free.
National Gallery
4 Chao-Fa Road, opposite the National Theatre, 02-282-2639. www.thailandmuseum.com/national_gallery. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. Admission: B10
Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, hence the “Three Decades of Arts Conservation” exhibition which showcases 30 works by different generations of artists through October 29.
National Museum
Grand Palace, Na Phrathat Rd.,
s02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. Admission: B40
Formerly the “second king’s” palace (a position abandoned under Rama V), this gorgeous property houses some of the most extraordinary architecture, art and antiques of our country. Don’t miss its newly restored courtyards with their fragrant gardens.
Queen’s Gallery
101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1. www.queengallery.org. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. Admission: B20 for adults, free for students
HM Queen Sirikit wanted an art space where artists could showcase their work and creations. With 3,700 sq.m., and a café, this is a great spot to see established and up and coming artists. Their current exhibit is on Bua Luang art.
Silpa Bhirasri Memorial
Na Phrathat Rd., Phra Borommaharatchawang, 02-223-6162. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. Admission: Free
The museum was founded as a memorial to Prof. Silpa Bhirasri, a Florence-born artist, who is now known as the “father of modern art in Thailand.” See contemporary paintings and sculptures and implements used by artists and sculptors in the past. The works by national artists and famous modern painters are also on display.
Vimanmek
Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300/-9. www.vimanmek.com. Open daily 9:30am-4pm. Admission: B100 for foreigners, B75 for Thais, B20 for monks and students
With 12 separate museums in Vimanmek Palace, you are sure to spend a whole day here. The compound houses the royal museums of photography, textiles and silk, clocks, and a lot other tedious topics. The old black and white pictures of the royal family are nice, though—and so are the gorgeous teak buildings. Strict dresscode (see their website for details).
RIVERSIDE
Bank of Thailand Museum, Bangkhunprom Palace
Warning: the buildings are beautiful but the exhibition is deadly dull. Just forget the tedious tour of information panels, ancient currencies (beads, gems, pottery, shells), multi-media and interactive screens and enjoy the architecture. Bangkhunprom Palace is known for the elegance of its Western-inspired styles: Baroque and Rococo. It has fine marble staircases, checked marble floors, red carpets with gold trimmings, polished teak floors, high green doors with golden doorknobs and an expansive white ceiling. As everything is immaculate and spotless, it is no surprise that shoes must be removed—trust us, your white socks will stay white.
The Surroundings: Drop in at Look Sao K.Panich [1] (250/5 Sam Sen Rd., 02-281-7838) for some great sweet sticky rice. This well-known khao niew sankayah shop also sells other traditional Thai desserts. Once you hit your sugar high, walk along Sam Sen Road to Pra Arthit Road for some tasty Mataba. The walk takes about ten minutes but if you can’t bear the pollution, hail a tuk tuk. Roti Mataba [2] (136 Pra Arthit Rd., 02-282-2119. Closed every Mon) is a tiny two-story restaurant with simple seating. Choose the first floor to observe how they cook but, if you can’t stand the heat, opt for air-con rooms on the second floor.
The Tips: Bad, bad Bank of Thailand. The brochure and website specify opening hours from Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm while in fact, you have to make an appointment. Coming with a group of friends, you actually have to make a written request to the Director of the Bank of Thailand Museum. Also, dress appropriately as this is a government office. You need sleeves, and nothing higher than two inches above the knee. And no parking.
273 Sam Sen Rd., 02-283-5286, 02-283-6723, 02-283-5265. www.bot.or.th. Open Mon-Fri 9am-4pm. Admission: Free
Forensic Museum (Siriraj Medical Museum)
Upon entering, you come face to face with shocking photographs of grisly accidents, murders, suicides, car crashes, bombings and stabbings. Sweet. Follow up with human skulls with bullet holes, stabbed lungs in formaldehyde and babies with freakish birth defects. Cause of death? Just read the tag. Deeper into the exhibition, the mummified corpse of the notorious Zee-Oui, the child murderer who thought that consuming children’s hearts and livers would bring him strength. If you can take some more death and destruction, visit the Boxing Day Tsunami exhibition with photographs and information on the processes of identifying corpses via teeth and DNA. It sure beats watching CSI or Ruang Jing Paan Jor!
The Surroundings: Just opposite the hospital and adjacent to the Wang Lang Pier is a market, so go shopping for some bargains to get over your shock. They have it all: clothes, shoes, bags, etc. While you’re there, eat at Rod Dee Ded (333 Soi Wang Lang, 02-412-7146, 081-682-8787). Their specialties include crispy pork over rice, barbeque pork, sweet stew pork, fish maw soup and dim sum.
The Tips: Go there by boat and enjoy the sights along the Chao Praya River including Wat Arun and many renowned hotels such as the Oriental and the Peninsula. Make your stop at Wang Lang Pier (Siriraj.) From Sapan Taksin, it’s a mere B17. Appropriate clothing is a must. Preferably around knee-length. Flip-flops, tank tops, tube tops are all no-nos. If for some reason you forget, tell the guard you are from aboard and had no idea. He will eventually relent (wink-wink.)
Siriraj Hospital, 2 Prannok Rd., 02-419-7000 Ext. 6363, 6440. www.si.mahidol.ac.th/museums. Open Mon-Sat 9am-4pm. Admission: B20 for Thais, B40 for foreigners.
Royal Barge Museum
Pinklao Bridge Pier, Thonburi, 02-424-0004. Open daily 9am-5pm. Admission: B30 for foreigners, B10 for Thais
Eight of the over 50 barges that make up the royal processions are displayed here. The must-see is the Suphannahong, or Golden Swan, with its figurehead prow in the shape of a huge golden swan.
SATHORN
Bangkok Insurance Museum
32/F Bangkok Insurance Bldg., 25 Sathorn Tai Rd., 02-285-8581/-3. www.bki.co.th. Open Mon-Fri 10am-12pm. Admission: Free
From the private antique collection of Chai Sophonpanich, chairman of Bangkok Insurance, over 1,000 artifacts are now on display at Bangkok Insurance’s headquarters. Works of craftsmanship on show cover various periods: Baan Chieng, Sukhothai.
SUKHUMVIT
Kamthieng House
Siam Society, 131 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke), 02-661-6470. BTS Asoke. www.siamsociety.org. Open Tue-Sat. 9am-5pm. Admission: B100 for adults, B50 for children
This 200-year-old Northern Thai Lanna style wooden house contains a collection of traditional tools used by Thai Northern farmers, fishermen and villagers. The house was once owned by the Nimanhemin family and was later moved to the grounds of the Siam Society for renovation and preservation.
Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC)
6/F Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-664-8448. BTS Phrom Phong. www.tcdc.or.th. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-9pm. Admission: Free
This center is home to a big art library as well as a number of temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion. You can also check out their permanent exhibition on “What is Design?” that shows the development of design using iconic pieces of our time from LV trunks to iPods.
ELSEWHERE
Erawan Museum
Bangna-Trad Rd., 02-371-3135. www.erawan-museum.com. Open daily 8am-5pm. Admission: B150 for adults, B50 for children
It owes its name to a huge, three-headed elephant statue from Hindu mythology, Airavata (also known as Erawan). The museum houses a collection of Thai antiques and artifacts such as Benjarong ceramics, Chakri dynasty tea sets, etc. Put in another B50 and gain access to the beautiful tropical garden.
House of Museums (Ban Phiphithaphan)
170/17 Moo 17, Soi Khlong Pho 2, Salathamasop Rd., 02-869-6281, 089-200-2803. www.houseofmuseums.siam.edu. Open Sat-Sun 10am-5pm. Admission: B30 for adults, B10 for children
Located in the middle of nowhere, House of Museums collects those everyday objects that usually don’t make it into a museum. By visiting this home’s rooms frozen in the 60s, you ge to witness the dawn of Western culture in Thai-Chinese Bangkok.
Human Imagery Museum
43/2 Moo 1, Pinklao-Nakhonchaisri Rd., Nakhon Pathom, 034-332-109. Open Mon-Fri, 9am-5:30pm, Sat-Sun 8:30am-6pm. Admission: B200 for foreigners, B50 for Thais
Thai artist Duangkaew Phityakornsilp and his team handcrafted the figures at the Human Imagery Museum. Creepily realistic, these wax figures show stories about Thai culture and how we used to live in the past. There’s also a collection of high-profile figures such as Chakri Dynasty Kings, monks, poets and politicians. Bangkok’s very own Madame Tussauds!
Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn Anthropology Center
20 Pha Boromarachachonnani Rd., 02-880-9429. www.sac.or.th. Open daily Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 9am-4pm. Admission: Free
There are four permanent exhibitions here. The HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn Biographic Exhibition displays photos and artifacts illustrating the life and works of the Princess. Other sections of the museum include Thai ceramics, a social and cultural exhibition of various regions of Thailand, and lastly the evolution of change of Thai culture.
Paravi Wongchirachai
The TCDC deputy managing director and Siam Society honorary consultant speaks about Thais’ attitudes towards museums.
What do you think about today’s museums?
Museums these days are about being interactive, as most of them don’t have much to show. In the West, it is mainly about the collection so you won’t find any multimedia tricks. But here, people need something to spark their interest.
What could museums do to attract more visitors?
We have to ask ourselves what are we competing with? Shopping malls, movie theaters and arcades. I think museums have to find a way to make their exhibition exciting enough to steer people away from other forms of entertainment.
Why do you think Thai people don’t want to go to museums?
There was the idea that our culture is something completely untouchable and not to be questioned. In our education system it also has not been about what you want to know, but what the authorities want you to know. For most people, we were taught that culture is all about traditions, manners and all things conservative, which have made learning very boring.
Why should anyone go to a museum?
For people these days, who you are is defined by what you own. But how are you going to know who you are if you don’t go looking at your past?
Jean-Michel Beurdelay
The author and retired antique dealer speaks of his modern Thai art collection.
How did this collection start?
When I closed my antiques gallery in Paris, in 1997, I had a final exhibition of [contemporary Thai artist] Montien Boonma’s work. It was my way of pulling the curtain on my previous career and announcing my new interest in contemporary Thai art.
How many pieces are in the collection?
About one hundred, including mine and the ones from my stepson Eric Bunnag Booth. We only display half of them though.
What’s your favorite piece?
I love Montien Boonma because his work is infused with Buddhism. I would say anything from his Sala of the Mind series is what I find the most interesting.
Your collection can only be visited by appointment. Who shows up?
Embassies bring cultural visitors and then there are a few Singapore and Hong Kong collectors, art teachers and their classes… I don’t get that many visits but that’s fine. Asking people to make an appointment is a great way to get only visitors that are truly interested in the collection.
Is contemporary Thai art doing well?
I’d be richer if I had collected Chinese art but the Thai market is interesting because it’s not developed yet. Wealthy people here are still interested in buying cars, not art. They’ll get to it, eventually. The Bangkok Art and Culture Center (see this page) is not perfect but it’s a start. The good thing is that Thai art is cheap. It’s the right time to buy; things are changing.
You think of this collection as an investment?
It’s not for sale but I can’t afford to buy junk either. I want to know these pieces have a reliable resale value; you never know. I buy works I like, that speak to me, but I’m also assisted by experts, historians and curators.
His private art collection can be visited by appointment only by calling 02-318-6760 (and is located at 30 Ramkamhaeng Soi 24). Admission: Free
Time Traveling
Two new ways to explore Rattanakosin.
Green Bangkok Bike
What: The Green Bangkok Bike brings the concept of Paris’ Velib to Bangkok. The idea is simple, various points around town have bicycles that you can hire for free and use to explore the city under your own steam. The down side, unlike Paris‘ city-wide offering, the bike rental service is only available in the area around the Grand Palace and Sanam Luang and you have to return your bike to the station where you picked it up.
Where: The tricky part is tracking down one of the eight bike stations, located at: Pinklao Bridge, Santichaiprakarn Park on Phra Athit Road, the pedestrian walk in the middle of Sib Sam Hang Road, Tha Tien Pier next to the Grand Palace, Saranrom Park, in front of the BMA office, Sanam Luang, and the National Theater.
How: Once you’ve found a station, you’ll need your ID or passport so the officer can copy it as a guarantee you’ll bring the bike back. You are then free to cycle where you want but you do have to return the bike to the respective station within an allocated time.
02-225-7612/-5. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. Free.
Rattanakosin Tram Tour
What: If romantic images of San Fransico’s trams come to mind then forget it now! The Rattanakosin Tram is a tiny little yellow box on wheels, though it does have a slightly vintage-look. Also unlike other trams this one doesn’t pick up passengers along the way. The tram acts as a lazy-alternative to the Green Bikes as you just sit and listen to the guide while you travel passed the major sites of interest.
Where: B30 will take you on a tour of 12 different historical and iconic sites—including Sanam Luang, the National Museum, Pra Sumeru Fort and the Democracy Monument. The problem is, despite a knowledgeable guide giving you background info (in Thai), you don’t get to stop and take a closer look. Still, it’s a good way of scouting out which places look worth a proper visit. The tour lasts about 40 minutes, depending on traffic and protests.
How: Make your way to the Information Center at the corner of Na Phrathat Road, opposite the Fine Arts Department. The tram leaves the station at 30 minute intervals.
02-225-7612/-4. Open Mon-Fri 9am-4pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. B30 per trip.


