Ring in the Chinese New Year feasting till you drop at food-studded Yaowarat by Nuttaporn Srisirirungsimakul photography by Gregoire Glachant

Nai Chia
In front of Kasikorn Bank, Yaowarat Branch, 08-6340-1492, 08-1917-8439. Open daily around the clock Apparently, chestnuts are more popular than we thought. Or else Nai Chia wouldn’t have carried on roasting them for almost half a decade. Like 7-Eleven, this street vendor is open all day, everyday.
The deal: Nai Chia does only one thing—roast chestnuts. It takes a laborious 40 minutes to roast the nuts in a huge pan over hot sand. The hawker opts for Japanese chestnutsthat are smaller than the Chinese counterpart, but are said to be sweeter. Feel free to ask for samples, but don’t get too close to that sizzling pan.
The price: B200 per kilo.

Jae Auan Raat Naa
In front of Sri Thong Gold Shop, 08-1633-5102. Open Tue-Sun 6:30pm-3am With 20 years of experience in the business, this raat naa stall with a wide following has just expanded its fan base, winning the most votes from viewers of Channel 3’s Sud Dej Prathet Thai as the best raat naa hawker in Bangkok.
The deal: Tender pork, crisp veggies and tasty gravy are the three rules of thumb of Jae Auan. For best flavor and texture, the lady owner and her husband marinate the pork overnight. Though the stir-fried noodles in gravy are the stars here, you also have it good with pad see iew (stir-fried noodles with egg and pork).
The price: B30-50. Jae Auon also sells her marinated pork at B180 per kilo.

Stir-Fried Chicken Noodles (no official name)
Trok Issaranuphap, Open daily 8pm-1am
Despite its hidden location, this hole in the wall has been around for half a decade and can get pretty crowded since there are only a few tables. The stall has no official name, but the vendor who also doubles as a cook prefers us to mention his stall as “Golden Wok Chicken Noodles,” so Golden Wok Chicken Noodles it is.
The deal: No phone number, no reservations. It’s first-come-first-served here, and the surly waitress makes sure everyone is served. The moment you seat yourself, she brings each and everyone on the table a bowl of kuay tiew kua kai. Don’t bother to order or object because she will stubbornly serve you anyway, even if you just want to accompany your hungry friend. On the bright side, the chicken noodles are scrumptious.
The price: B30-50.

Hua Seng Hong
371-373 Yaowarat Rd., near Lieng Seng Heng gold shop, 02-222-7053, Open daily 8-1am. www.huasenghong.co.th
Equipped with many cooking booths, outside is where all the action takes place. Inside is a long, low-ceiling hallway, which sometimes feels a bit claustrophobic, filled with roars of locals and Chinese tourists. There’s nothing to write home about the decor, fortunately. That’s not the case for its food.
The deal: The menu offers gargantuan Chinese dishes with shark’s fin soup, braised goosefeet in a clay pot and steamed crab with glass noodles as the highlights. However,
there are more affordable choices like BBQ pork noodles and rice topped with roast duck. Though on offer all day, dim sum tends to run out in the evening, so it’s wise to drop by before 6pm.
The price: B30-1,000.

Nai Lek Auan Kuay Jub
In front of the Old Market, Yaowarat Rd., 02-224-3450, 08-1611-6920. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-12:30am
It’s a war! This tiny vendor with less than eight tables is the hot favorite of diners from all walks of life, so chances are you have to squeeze in a table with university students, race to grab a chair, or fight with a hiso big-hair lady before enjoying its kuay jub. Drop by and don’t forget your patience.
The deal: Like other kuay jub stalls, Nai Lek Auan serves its rice noodles with pork entrails and crispy moo krob. But it’s the fragrant clear soup, packed with kicks of pepper
that sets the difference. These appetizing noodles work well as a cure for the flu.
The price: B30-40.

Aun Pochana
In the front of New Leam Thong theater (China Town Rama), Yaowarat Rd., 08-9130-3352. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-3am.
If a long wait at Nai Lek Auan’s puts you off, Aun Pochana is a good alternative. Head to one of the tables on the footpath for breathing space, or opt for a table inside the defunct theater if you don’t want to play hide and seek with the staff.
The deal: Similar to Nai Lek Auan, Aun Pochana is known for its aromatic peppery broth. You can also order fish maw soup from the adjacent cart to go with your rice noodles.
The price: B30-40.

Bua Loi Nam Khing (no official name)
Across from Watson’s, Yaowarat Rd.,08-7019-3170. Open Tue-Sun 7pm-2am
This dessert stall spreads the tables on the street. The vendor can speak only broken Chinese, but that’s enough to take orders from the customers from the Mainland.
The deal: Hot and cold Chinese-style dessert to wash down the meal. There are gingko seeds, black sesame dumplings and bean curd to be paired with your choice of fresh milk, ginger soup or longan juice.
The price: B40-80.

Toast (no official name)
Across from Jae Auan Raat Naa and Bank of Ayudhya, Yaowarat Rd., 08-7598-0888, 08-1492-5131. Open Tue-Sun 6:30pm-midnight
You will be lured to this stall by the sweet aroma of buttered
toast. Though there are a few tables to welcome seated customers, the young crowd that makes up the majority of its regulars often order takeaways.
The deal: The stall offers “crispy” toast and “soft” steamed buns. Top it off with sangkaya (Thai egg custard),
chocolate, pineapple or strawberry jam. The kind uncle doesn’t mind if you order coffee or hot milk from the adjoining stall.
The price: B7-8.

T&K Seafood
49-51 Soi Phadung Dao, 02-223-4519, 08-1507-5555. Open daily 4:30pm-2am
Named after initials of the couple owners, Toy and Kid, T&K Seafood is one of the long-standing seafood stalls in Yaowarat. However, it is more widely known as “the green shop” since the staff all put on green aprons. Plenty of seating available in and outside the restaurant.
The deal: Expect everything sea-related from oysters to shark fin. The energetic servers often force a hard sell, passing menus to passers by. But once you agree to settle at the stall, they turn out to be nice and attentive, providing so many recommendations that make you eat more than you should. Wait, is that also one of their tactics?
The price: B100-500. ■