Bangkok has made passing shots at becoming the tourism, fashion, medical, food, sex change (and add any word you like here) capital of the world. We’ve come to be pretty blasé when it comes to silly unreachable goals for Krungthep. But the one endeavor that really knocked us off our chairs was our failed attempts in 2008 and 2009 to be World Book Capital (see box page 11). Huh? Who? Us? World Book Capital? After a thorough investigation of every bookworm den out there, we’re proud to say, “Don’t judge Bangkok by its cover.” Our city has plenty to read and plenty of places to do it.
BASHEER
What? Located at the H1 complex in Thonglor, this two-story bookstore has a large collection of huge and heavy coffee-table books. The first floor contains books about fashion, animation, graphic design, photography, fine art and advertising while the upper floor is dedicated to architecture and interior decoration magazines such as Frame and Lodown. You’ll get plenty of ideas on how to remodel your room.
Who goes there? All types of snappily-dressed designers from graphic to interior and Tom Ford wannabes.
Secret weapon? The tree-shaded outdoor patio beckons you to linger and fantasize about your dream bedroom. Better yet, get yourself a scoop or two of ice cream from the nearby Hay parlor to accompany your reading.
Anything else? If you do not mind out-of-date magazines, they are a steal here thanks to the 30% discount. Art is never out of style, after all.
998/7 H1 Complex, Soi Thonglor, 02-391-9815. Open daily 10:30am-8pm.
BOOK@53
What? This low-rise bookshop and café offers English-language paperbacks, imported art magazines and non-fiction, along with some Thai titles. The highlight is an extensive children’s books section—bedtime stories, pop-up books, exercise books, scrapbooks, etc. Take your pick. Also available are books covering obscure subjects ranging from alternative medicine to military aviation. When you’ve found your dream book, drop by the attached café or go out for fresh air (or a cigarette, you arty poser) outside.
Who goes there? Regulars are international students in the neighborhood who hang out here to wait for their ride home. So if you want to spend some peaceful time browsing the shelves, avoid dropping by around 3-4pm, when school’s over. Concerned parents can also be seen choosing exercise books, atlases and encyclopedia for their children—scary.
Secret weapon? Stuck with a hyperactive niece or nephew for the afternoon? Put them in the playground with Thomas the Train and Postman Pat (no, these are not farang sex offenders, just cartoon characters) while you enjoy your book.
Anything else? Don’t leave before you taste Book@53’s homemade shepherd’s pie and chocolate cake. Yummy! Oops, this is a temple of the written word—exquisite!
25 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-7747, www.nibondhbooks.com/book53. Open daily 10am-7pm.
DASA BOOK CAFE
What? The two-story “book café” claims to be “Bangkok’s best secondhand bookshop.” It may very well be just that. Four years ago when it first started, it used to have only 600 used books, but now Dasa is stocked with over 13,000 titles in many languages.
Who goes there? The majority of the regulars are foreigners or tourists who like to drop by for maps and travel guides.
Secret Weapons? Good-quality books, sinful brownies and coffee, a colorful shophouse—this is a pleasant alternative to your typical musty, dusty secondhand book stall on Khaosan Road. Can’t afford the newer and more expensive books at Kinokuniya or Asia Books? Check out the online “dasabase” and drop by the shop for an inexpensive tome. Not even a satang left? Feel free to bring your books to swap, exchange and trade at Dasa.
710/4 Sukhumvit Rd., between sois 26 and 28, 02-661-2993/4, www.dasabookcafe.com. Open daily 10am-8pm.
DOUBLE A BOOK TOWER
What? Bringing together different genres of books and multimedia—most of which are in Thai—this giant nine-story building opens up the world of reading to all. The ground floor includes an internet café, bakery, florist and post office. Hungry bookworms can head to the food court located on the seventh floor.
Who goes there? Everyone. Double A Book Tower attracts a lot of office workers during lunch hour and is bustling with families on weekends.
Secret weapon? Variety is the spice of life, and at Double A Book Tower, you are sure to find heaps of it. Here you can kill a lazy afternoon browsing through a range of books from over 400 publishers. Sign up for a membership (free) and you’ll get 5% discount and also free wifi.
122 Sathorn Soi 12, North Sathorn Rd., 02-236-7575, www.doubleabooktower.com. Open daily 10am-9pm.
MARUEY LIBRARY
What? Named after Dr. Maruey Phadoongsidhi, the fifth president of the Stock Exchange of Thailand, this is the one-stop library for those seeking information on finance and business from books to e-reports. But there are also a few corners offering fiction and novels because, after all, business people are human beings, too. Why, there is even a Fun Zone that serves booze and has DJs playing nightly. Just kidding. But you can watch DVDs or play brain-sharpening games like chess and Othello, there. Or you can head to the Total Silence Zone to read in peace and quiet. Switch off your mobile or risk a bonk on the head!
Who goes there? Suits! Even if you don’t have an MBA, grab a seat on the second floor and go ask them about what they’re reading—you might land a rich (or soon to be rich) girl/boyfriend.
Secret weapon? Its late opening hours allow you to linger over a cup of coffee at Settrade Café (or even take a nap) before heading out to party afterwards. Wifi internet is free, too.
Anything else? Clueless about finance? The library regularly hosts a seminar on internet trading and the stock exchange. You can also drop by Maruey @ The Esplande, a series of seminars where CEOs from various companies take turns giving business advice and insight during the Finance Clinic every weekend.
1-2/F, The Stock Exchange of Thailand Bldg., 62 Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-229-2063/-5, www.maruey.com. Open Sun-Thu 8:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat 8:30am-midnight.
NEILSON HAYS LIBRARY
What? This long-standing library oozes nostalgia with its neoclassic interior. Quaint wooden bookcases house a vast selection of English-language fiction. The place also has a kid zone equipped with a TV, small tables and comfy cushions. Admission is free for members, but B50 for non-members.
Who goes there? The library welcomes only a handful of guests daily. Most of them are expat housewives who come with their children. You’ll also see some architecture students. Thais occasionally show up, and then run off as they are told that they have to pay admission.
Secret Weapon? Designed by Italian architect Mario Tamagno, who gave us the Anada Samakhom Throne Hall and Hua Lamphong Railway Station, the charming white building alone is reason enough to visit Neilson Hays. But the library also caters to the arty and hungry crowds as it comes attached to the Rotunda Gallery and The Garden Gallery, where you can enjoy a light meal from Roadhouse BBQ.
Anything else? Have time to spare on weekends? Volunteer to join the storytelling session for kids on Saturdays.
195 Surawongse Rd., 02-233-1731, www.neilsonhayslibrary.com. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-5pm.
ORCHID BOOKS
What? Indo-Tibetan Buddhism? Tick. Burmese revolution? Tick. Khmer costumes? Tick. The evolution of representations of the Buddha during the Sukhothai period? Tick. This offshoot of Orchid Press publisher specializes in English-language editions on all things Asian from art to culture and religion. It also carries a few fiction titles, too.
Who goes there? Cultivated expats and connoisseur travelers in search of in-depth info on their Asian destinations.
Secret weapon? A rare selection of out-of-print titles as well as limited reprint editions on Asian cultures from publishers worldwide.
Anything else? With Orchid Books’ hand bookbinding service—in calf leather and Thai silk—you can turn a simple paperback into your own little treasure.
4/F, Silom Complex, Silom Rd., 02-231-3300. Open daily 11am-7pm.
PASSPORT BOOKSHOP
What? This homey bookshop, due to financial duress, has relocated from its old location on Phra Athit to its present home on Phra Sumen Road. The atmosphere is still homey and intimate as the friendly owner, Noom, handpicks each book himself. On the shelves are novels, children literature, indie magazines and travel guides—hence the name.
Who goes there? Though loyal regulars continue to support Passport, the bookshop hasn’t received the attention it deserves. Hopefully, with the Queen’s Gallery and Old Bangkok Inn sharing the same street, Passport will manage to attract more people to its new home.
Secret Weapons? Warm intimacy. Here, you are welcome to stay as long as you’d like. Pick a postcard or two and write them to your loved ones. There is a selection of tea and coffee on offer too.
Pra Sumen Rd., 02-629-0694. Open Tue-Sun 10am-8pm.
RAAN PRATOO SEE FAH
What? Step through the namesake blue door and you’ll be enveloped with rows of colorful paperbacks. The bright, all-glass bookstore-cum-café features both an air-con interior and outdoor tables. It offers a wide range of Thai fiction and translated literature. Bookworms will be glad to find such classics as Leo Tolstoy’s War and Peace, Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s One Hundred Years of Solitude and Virginia Woolf’s Mrs. Dalloway. One corner is dedicated to self-published books from aspiring writers.
Who goes there? Fashionable young professionals of the Ekkamai and Thonglor ghetto.
Secret Weapon? Raan Pratoo See Fah doesn’t only feed your brain, but also your stomach. The menu includes one-dish recipes and coffee creations with prices ranging from B45-65. Want to get a little tipsy as you work through that novel? Singha, Phuket beer and wines are available.
Anything else? If coffee can’t keep you awake, people-watching definitely will! Since the book café is located in the same complex as indie label Smallroom and A Day mag, you’re entitled to ample dek-naew gazing opportunities. Now, where is The Richman Toy?
Ekkamai Shopping Complex, Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-726-9779. Open Mon-Fri 9am-midnight, Sat-Sun noon-midnight.
SAUCE
What? With a focus on art, literature and, most of all, cookbooks, this two-story glass house cooks up various flavors in print to spice up your day. Foodies can find out how Gordon Ramsey rose to fame and bring home Jamie Oliver’s recipes, while creative minds can delight over imported art magazines.
Who goes there? As it is set in the same complex as Vanilla Garden restaurant, the majority of Sauce customers are diners who want to kill time browsing the books, with only a handful of walk-ins. During the day, it becomes the turf of Thonglor (Japanese) housewives.
Secret weapon? There’s more than cookbooks! Its S.E.A.Write shelf collects worthy reads from various laureates like Chart Korbjitti, Chiranan Pitpreecha and Kanokphong Songsomphan. A short biography of each writer is carved on a steel plate, offering clueless readers a few glimpses of their lives and writing styles.
Anything else? Along with your favorite books, you might as well bring home some cute stationery, tote bags and CDs.
Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-381-6120 ext. 17. Open daily
11am-11pm.
TCDC
What? After a long controversy, the chic creative center plans on “no relocation, no merger.” It still offers over 15,000 creativity-infused books and magazines focusing on art, architecture, fashion, decoration and photography. There are also multimedia facilities, movie rooms and private rooms for brainstorming.
Who goes there? Artists, graphic designers and interior decoration students.
Secret Weapon? Confused with all the design jargon? The Quicktionary can help. Just use one of the available hi-tech pens to scan the word puzzling you, and it’ll translate the gobbledygook to understandable English and Thai. If you missed past seminars or conferences, the Media Services counter can even upload them to your iPod.
Anything else? If you are done with reading, drop by the exhibition area where art showcases rotate every two months.
6/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-664-8448, www.tcdc.or.th. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-9pm.
WILLIAM WARREN LIBRARY
What? This unassuming reading spot is like a Starbucks, but with free wifi and more privacy. Art exhibition catalogues and imported contemporary art textbooks dominate the shelves. If you prefer, you can take your reading materials and head to the mezzanine floor, where cushy beanbags await. There’s even an outdoor balcony for smokers to sneak out for a brief foray into Marlboro country.
Who goes there? In-the-know artsy types. Drop by at the right time, and chances are you’ll get to meet arthouse director Apichatphong, artist Michael Shawanasai and curator David Teh as they brainstorm for their next projects.
Secret weapon? The library doubles as a mini theater as it regularly hosts short film screenings. It also arranges free workshops for the public, too. Mark your calendar for Ryota VS Prabda on May 24, 1:30pm, when Bangkok-based Japanese columnist Ryota Suzuki and SEA Write laureate Prabda Yoon share their perspectives towards Thailand and Japan.
Anything else? Sitting on the bench near the window is the lifelike wax sculpture of uncle Jim Thompson, which according to the wide-spreading rumors, occasionally turns his head and looks at the library-goers... You’ll never read alone.
4/F, Henry B. Thompson Bldg., Soi Kasemsarn 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-612-6741, www.thejimthompsonartcenter.org. Open Tue-Sat 9am-5pm.
Reading By the Numbers
4.4
Percentage of Thais aged 10 and older who spend their spare time reading.
30
Percentage of people in developed countries who spend their spare time reading.
7
Lines of text read by Thai schoolchildren in a day (2005).
12
Target the Education Ministry set in 2007.
1:84,000
Ratio of people to libraries in Thailand.
1:20,000
Ratio of people to libraries in Korea.
2
Number of books Thais purchase per year.
60
Number of books Vietnamese purchase per year.
B260
Amount Thais spend on books per year.
What’s Hot?
The bestsellers for May according to behemoths Kinokuniya and Asia Books.
Kinokuniya
Try 3/F Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9500. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.kinokuniya.com
1. A New Earth: Awakening to Your Life’s Purpose by Tolle Eckhart
A self-help book with practical steps to reach inner peace and a “new consciousness.”
2. Rich Dad’s Increase Your Financial IQ by Robert T. Kiyosaki
The follow-up to the Rich Dad, Poor Dad series offers a Money 101 course to increase your IQ about your own money.
3. The Choice by Nicholas Sparks
Travis enjoys his bachelor lifestyle filled with friends and fun until he meets the new girl next door.
4. Slam by Nick Hornby
Skater boy Sam finds his life skating unexpectedly off the rails when he becomes a dad at 16.
5. The 6th Target by James Patterson
Four members of the Women’s Murder Club struggle to stop a string of child kidnappings in San Francisco.
Asia Books
Try 4/F Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0418/-20. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.asiabooks.com
1. Nothing To Lose by Lee Child
In this 12th installation in the Jack Reacher series, the ex-cop dig up the dark secrets of Despair, a mysterious, deserted town in Colorado.
2. Book of the Dead by Patricia Cornwell
A determined forensic team is faced with many brutal and unusal crimes.
3. Remember Me? By Sophie Kinsella
Waking up in a hospital, Lexi is in for a big surprise as her once imperfect life is now perfect, complete with a gorgeous husband, Vuitton bags and Mercedes! How did that happen? She has no clue.
4. Night Train to Lisbon by Pascal Mercier
Struck by a profound book he has read, a middle-aged teacher hops on a night train to Lisbon in search of the author.
5. The Choice by Nicholas Sparks
(See Kinokuniya)
World Book Capital City: We’re Next!
Every year since 2001, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) awards one city the title of World Book Capital City as part of its World Book and Copyright Day (Apr 23). Bangkok, under the then mayor Apirak Kosayothin, was a candidate in 2008 and 2009, only to lose out to Amsterdam in the Natherlands and Lebanon’s Beirut respectively. We will now boycott these cities, forever. Apart from the minor detail that we don’t read, why did we lose? Here are the five criteria to be World Book Capital City and how BK ranks Bangkok on each one.
“Activities specially designed for the city’s term as World Book Capital City.”
We have book fairs, we have the Discovery Learning Library, we can throw a party, we’re the best place on earth for conventions. There’s nothing like a night out in Patpong after a day spent listening to boring authors, right? Rating: 5/5.
“Municipal, regional, national and international involvements.”
Wo, what? Regional? We don’t read in Bangkok; you don’t expect them to read in Phitsanulok, do you? Bangkok is Thailand and Thailand is Bangkok and we’re plenty self-involved, thank you. Another resounding 5/5.
“Quantity and quality of activities organized by the city in collaboration with writers, publishers and booksellers.”
The publishing business has grown over 10% a year since 2003. Writers and publishers are also more active since the number of new titles launched in bookstores yearly has increased from 10,108 in 2003 to 11,201 in 2006. We give ourselves a big fat 4/5.
“Noteworthy projects to promote and foster books and reading.”
Bangkok International Book Fair (Mar), National Book Fair (Apr), Book Festival for Young People (Jul), Book Expo Thailand (Oct)—Take your pick. We’ve got book fairs rotating throughout the year. 5/5
“Freedom of expression, freedom to publish and to distribute information.”
Amsterdam was chosen because of “its emphasis on freedom of expression,” while Beirut snatched the title due to its “focus on tolerance.” Uh-oh. With our tendency to sue journalists, disrespect copyrights and ban books, this one will be hard to pull off. Rating: 1/5.
Verdict: A near-perfect score if our math is on par with our reading skills. In any case, we totally deserve to win. Give us that title UNESCO or we’re censuring the very mention of your name throughout the Kingdom!
bk asks: “What should libraries do to attract more people?”
Boontham Seang U-thai, 36, postman
More facilities, such as computers. Free wifi would be nice, too.
Opas Pattarawit, 28, entrepreneur
A music room with instruments we can learn to play. Also, free wifi and a kid’s corner.
Amnaj, 25, translator/freelance photographer
Revamp the interior to give it a Starbucks-like atmosphere.
Nastaya Pangjai, 19, waitress
More foreign books and magazines. Most libraries have only Thai-language books. And more computers would be great.
Norranit, 29, writer
A nap room. People tend to get sleepy while reading and sleeping on a hard table isn’t that comfortable.
Deunchalerm, 26, consulting analyst
A lucky draw. Like, if you borrow three books, you’d get to enter a lucky draw and stand a chance to win a package tour to Japan.
