October 13, 2008 | Bangkok

BLOW YOUR MIND

Blow Your Mind

May 14th, 2008

Read all about Bangkok’s best bookstores and libraries. Text and photos Teeratron Likhitphongsathorn, Sarawut Keawtapan and Vishaya Thitisak

Bangkok has made passing shots at becoming the tourism, fashion, medical, food, sex change (and add any word you like here) capital of the world. We’ve come to be pretty blasé when it comes to silly unreachable goals for Krungthep. But the one endeavor that really knocked us off our chairs was our failed attempts in 2008 and 2009 to be World Book Capital (see box page 11). Huh? Who? Us? World Book Capital? After a thorough investigation of every bookworm den out there, we’re proud to say, “Don’t judge Bangkok by its cover.” Our city has plenty to read and plenty of places to do it.

BASHEER

What? Located at the H1 complex in Thonglor, this two-story bookstore has a large collection of huge and heavy coffee-table books. The first floor contains books about fashion, animation, graphic design, photography, fine art and advertising while the upper floor is dedicated to architecture and interior decoration magazines such as Frame and Lodown. You’ll get plenty of ideas on how to remodel your room.

Who goes there? All types of snappily-dressed designers from graphic to interior and Tom Ford wannabes.

Secret weapon? The tree-shaded outdoor patio beckons you to linger and fantasize about your dream bedroom. Better yet, get yourself a scoop or two of ice cream from the nearby Hay parlor to accompany your reading.

Anything else? If you do not mind out-of-date magazines, they are a steal here thanks to the 30% discount. Art is never out of style, after all.

998/7 H1 Complex, Soi Thonglor, 02-391-9815. Open daily 10:30am-8pm.

BOOK@53

What? This low-rise bookshop and café offers English-language paperbacks,
imported art magazines and non-fiction, along with some Thai titles. The highlight is an extensive children’s books section—bedtime stories, pop-up books, exercise books, scrapbooks, etc. Take your pick. Also available are books covering obscure subjects ranging from alternative medicine to military aviation. When you’ve found your dream book, drop by the attached café or go out for fresh air (or a cigarette, you arty poser) outside.

Who goes there? Regulars are international students in the neighborhood who hang out here to wait for their ride home. So if you want to spend some peaceful time browsing the shelves, avoid dropping by around 3-4pm, when school’s over. Concerned parents can also be seen choosing exercise books, atlases and encyclopedia for their children—scary.

Secret weapon? Stuck with a hyperactive niece or nephew for the afternoon? Put them in the playground with Thomas the Train and Postman Pat (no, these are not farang sex offenders, just cartoon characters) while you enjoy your book.

Anything else? Don’t leave before you taste Book@53’s homemade shepherd’s pie and chocolate cake. Yummy! Oops, this is a temple of the written word—exquisite!

25 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-7747, www.nibondhbooks.com/book53. Open daily 10am-7pm.

DASA BOOK CAFÉ

What? The two-story “book café” claims to be “Bangkok’s best secondhand bookshop.”
It may very well be just that. Four years ago when it first started, it used to have only 600 used books, but now Dasa is stocked with over 13,000 titles in many languages.

Who goes there? The majority of the regulars are foreigners or tourists who like to drop by for maps and travel guides.

Secret weapons? Good-quality books, sinful brownies and coffee, a colorful shophouse—
this is a pleasant alternative to your typical musty, dusty secondhand book stall on Khaosan Road. Can’t afford the newer and more expensive books at Kinokuniya or Asia Books? Check out the online “dasabase” and drop by the shop for an inexpensive tome. Not even a satang left? Feel free to bring your books to swap, exchange and trade at Dasa.

710/4 Sukhumvit Rd., between sois 26 and 28, 02-661-2993/4, www.dasabookcafe.com. Open daily 10am-8pm.

DOUBLE A BOOK TOWER

What? Bringing together different genres of books and multimedia—most of which are in Thai—this giant nine-story building opens up the world of reading to all. The ground floor includes an internet café, bakery, florist and post office. Hungry bookworms can head to the food court located on the seventh floor.

Who goes there? Everyone. Double A Book Tower attracts a lot of office workers during lunch hour and is bustling with families on weekends.

Secret weapon? Variety is the spice of life, and at Double A Book Tower, you are sure to find heaps of it. Here you can kill a lazy afternoon browsing through a range of books from over 400 publishers. Sign up for a membership (free) and you’ll get 5% discount and also free wifi.

122 Sathorn Soi 12, North Sathorn Rd., 02-236-7575, www.doubleabooktower.com. Open daily 10am-9pm.

MARUEY LIBRARY

What? Named after Dr. Maruey Phadoongsidhi, the fifth president of the Stock Exchange of Thailand, this is the one-stop library for those seeking information on finance and business from books to e-reports. But there are also a few corners offering fiction and novels because, after all, business people are human beings, too. Why, there is even a Fun Zone that serves booze and has DJs playing nightly. Just kidding. But you can watch DVDs or play brain-sharpening games like chess and Othello, there. Or you can head to the Total Silence Zone to read in peace and quiet. Switch off your mobile or risk a bonk on the head!

Who goes there? Suits! Even if you don’t have an MBA, grab a seat on the second
floor and go ask them about what they’re reading—you might land a rich (or soon to be rich) girl/boyfriend.

Secret weapon? Its late opening hours allow you to linger over a cup of coffee
at Settrade Café (or even take a nap) before heading out to party afterwards.
Wifi internet is free, too.

Anything else? Clueless about finance? The library regularly hosts a seminar on internet trading and the stock exchange. You can also drop by Maruey @ The Esplande, a series of seminars where CEOs from various companies take turns giving busines advice and insight during the Finance Clinic every weekend.

1-2/F, The Stock Exchange of Thailand Bldg., 62 Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-229-2063/-5, www.maruey.com. Open Sun-Thu 8:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat 8:30am-midnight.

NEILSON HAYS LIBRARY

What? This long-standing library oozes nostalgia with its neoclassic interior. Quaint wooden bookcases house a vast selection of English-language fiction. The place also has a kid zone equipped with a TV, small tables and comfy cushions. Admission is free for members, but B50 for non-members.

Who goes there? The library welcomes only a handful of guests daily. Most of them are expat housewives who come with their children. You’ll also see some architecture students. Thais occasionally show up, and then run off as they are told that they have to pay admission.

Secret weapon? Designed by Italian architect Mario Tamagno, who gave us the Anada Samakhom Throne Hall and Hua Lamphong Railway Station, the charming white building alone is reason enough to visit Neilson Hays. But the library also caters to the arty and hungry crowds as it comes attached to the Rotunda Gallery and The Garden Gallery, where you can enjoy a light meal from Roadhouse BBQ.

Anything else? Have time to spare on weekends? Volunteer to join the storytelling
session for kids on Saturdays.

195 Surawongse Rd., 02-233-1731, www.neilsonhayslibrary.com. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-5pm.

ORCHID BOOKS

What? Indo-Tibetan Buddhism? Tick. Burmese revolution? Tick. Khmer costumes? Tick. The evolution of representations of the Buddha during the Sukhothai period? Tick. This offshoot of Orchid Press publisher specializes in English-language editions on all things Asian from art to culture and religion. It also carries a few fiction titles, too.

Who goes there? Cultivated expats and connoisseur travelers in search of in-depth info on their Asian destinations.

Secret weapon? A rare selection of out-of-print titles as well as limited reprint editions on Asian cultures from publishers worldwide.

Anything else? With Orchid Books’ hand bookbinding service—in calf leather and Thai silk—you can turn a simple paperback into your own little treasure.

4/F, Silom Complex, Silom Rd., 02-231-3300. Open daily 11am-7pm.

PASSPORT BOOKSHOP

What? This homey bookshop, due to financial duress, has relocated from its old location on Phra Athit to its present home on Phra Sumen Road. The atmosphere is still homey and intimate as the friendly owner, Noom, handpicks each book himself. On the shelves are novels, children literature, indie magazines and travel guides—hence the name.

Who goes there? Though loyal regulars continue to support Passport, the bookshop hasn’t received the attention it deserves. Hopefully, with the Queen’s Gallery and Old Bangkok Inn sharing the same street, Passport will manage to attract more people to its new home.

Secret weapons? Warm intimacy. Here, you are welcome to stay as long as you’d like. Pick a postcard or two and write them to your loved ones. There is a selection of tea and coffee on offer too.

Pra Sumen Rd., 02-629-0694. Open Tue-Sun 10am-8pm.

RAAN PRATOO SEE FAH

What? Step through the namesake blue door and you’ll be enveloped with rows of colorful paperbacks. The bright, all-glass bookstore-cum-café features both an air-con interior and outdoor tables. It offers a wide range of Thai fiction and translated literature. Bookworms will be glad to find such classics as Leo Tolstoy’s War and Peace, Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s One Hundred Years of Solitude and Virginia Woolf’s Mrs. Dalloway. One corner is dedicated to self-published books from aspiring writers.

Who goes there? Fashionable young professionals of the Ekkamai and Thonglor ghetto.

Secret weapon? Raan Pratoo See Fah doesn’t only feed your brain, but also your stomach. The menu includes one-dish recipes and coffee creations with prices ranging from B45-65. Want to get a little tipsy as you work through that novel? Singha, Phuket beer and wines are available.

Anything else? If coffee can’t keep you awake, people-watching definitely will! Since the book café is located in the same complex as indie label Smallroom and A Day mag, you’re entitled to ample dek-naew gazing opportunities. Now, where is The Richman Toy?

Ekkamai Shopping Complex, Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-726-9779. Open Mon-Fri 9am-midnight, Sat-Sun noon-midnight.

SAUCE

What? With a focus on art, literature and, most of all, cookbooks, this two-story glass house cooks up various flavors in print to spice up your day. Foodies can find out how Gordon Ramsey rose to fame and bring home Jamie Oliver’s recipes, while creative minds can delight over imported art magazines.

Who goes there? As it is set in the same complex as Vanilla Garden restaurant, the majority of Sauce customers are diners who want to kill time browsing the books, with only a handful of walk-ins. During the day, it becomes the turf of Thonglor (Japanese) housewives.

Secret weapon? There’s more than cookbooks! Its S.E.A.Write shelf collects worthy reads from various laureates like Chart Korbjitti, Chiranan Pitpreecha and Kanokphong Songsomphan. A short biography of each writer is carved on a steel plate, offering clueless readers a few glimpses of their lives and writing styles.

Anything else? Along with your favorite books, you might as well bring home some cute stationery, tote bags and CDs.

Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-381-6120 ext. 17. Open daily 11am-11pm.

TCDC

What? After a long controversy, the chic creative center plans on “no relocation, no merger.” It still offers over 15,000 creativity-infused books and magazines focusing on art, architecture, fashion, decoration and photography. There are also multimedia facilities, movie rooms and
private rooms for brainstorming.

Who goes there? Artists, graphic designers and interior decoration students.

Secret Weapon? Confused with all the design jargon? The Quicktionary can help. Just use one of the available hi-tech pens to scan the word puzzling you, and it’ll translate the gobbledygook to understandable English and Thai. If you missed past seminars or conferences, the Media Services counter can even upload them to your iPod.

Anything else? If you are done with reading, drop by the exhibition area where art showcases rotate every two months. Have something to share? Show it off at Pecha Kucha Night at TCDC on May 31, 4:30pm onwards.

6/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-664-8448, www.tcdc.or.th. Open Tue-
Sun 10:30am-9pm.

WILLIAM WARREN LIBRARY

What? This unassuming reading spot is like a Starbucks, but with free wifi and more privacy. Art exhibition catalogues and imported contemporary art textbooks dominate the shelves. If you prefer, you can take your reading materials and head to the mezzanine fl oor, where cushy beanbags await. There’s even an outdoor balcony for smokers to sneak out for a brief foray into Marlboro country.

Who goes there? In-the-know artsy types. Drop by at the right time, and chances are you’ll get to meet arthouse director Apichatphong, artist Michael Shawanasai and curator David Teh as they brainstorm for their next projects.

Secret weapon? The library doubles as a mini theater as it regularly hosts short film screenings. It also arranges free workshops for the public, too. Mark your calendar for Ryota VS Prabda on May 24, 1:30pm, when Bangkok-based Japanese columnist Ryota Suzuki and SEA Write laureate Prabda Yoon share their perspectives towards Thailand and Japan.

Anything else? Sitting on the bench near the window is the lifelike wax sculpture of uncle Jim Thompson, which according to the wide-spreading rumors, occasionally turns his head and looks at the library-goers... You’ll never read alone.

4/F, Henry B. Thompson Bldg., Soi Kasemsarn 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-612-6741, www.thejimthompsonartcenter.org. Open Tue-Sat 9am-5pm.