Phuket Town’s original inhabitants form a very special community, the Baba, that came about when Chinese men who had come to Phuket to mine its tin married local wives. Their architecture has long been dubbed “Sino-Portuguese” but experts now prefer the term Sino-Thai-European to reflect the wider variety of influences it encompasses. The Baba culture was dying a slow death until a recent surge of interest prompted a series of cultural events and timely architectural renovations.

The best way to enjoy the Baba’s cute shop houses is to simply walk down Dibuk Road and Thalang Road. Don’t miss the opportunity to have lunch at the China Inn Café (20 Thalang Road, 076-356-239) or Dibuk Bar & Grill (93 Dibuk Road, 076-218-425). What’s fascinating about these shop houses is the inner courtyards that provide natural air con. Nearby, you can visit Baan Chinpracha (Krabi Rd., 076-211-167). We visited it with the late Khun Pracha but his wife has maintained the tradition of giving tourists a little tour. It’s a lived in house, not a museum, but it’s full of history. Just sneak in and ask if someone can show you around. Just next to it is the Chinpracha Mansion. It’s probably the most gorgeous mansion in Phuket but you can’t go inside. What can be visited, though, is the Phuket Thai Hua Museum on Thalang Road. This former school is now a gallery and community culture center showcasing the Baba’s way of life through events and concerts.

Phuket Town and its surroundings are also full of ancient Chinese shrines. To our untrained eye, they’re pretty similar to what you’d see in other parts of Thailand that have Chinese communities. But when the Phuket Vegetarian Festival (Sep 29-Oct 7, 2008, www.phuketvegetarian.com) arrives, they are taken over by mediums possessed by animal spirits who perform gruesome acts of self-mutilation amid firecrackers and drumbeats. Definitely on the list of things to see before you die.

If you’re interested in seeing more, a good heritage map has finally been produced, The Phuket Town Treasure Map. Pick it up at the TAT Office (191 Thalang Rd., 076-2122-13).